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My old brain seems to have lost exactly what you said your setup is. Which Sniper are you using? Are you also using their PDM? What about any other SNIPER bits and pieces like their ignition and coil? There has to be a way for all this to work together. Just need to solve the mystery......

In essence that is what you need to do. In post #35 your diagram indicates that you have upgraded the alternator feed through the firewall and on to the ammeter. I would pick a convenient spot on that feed line after it passed through the firewall. Strip off half an inch of insulation then do...

Under normal configuration you are absolutely correct. The reason I say discharging condition is because of that load causing the issue. Call it what you want. Reducing that accessory load on the battery line should have positive results.

No, I said what I meant to. In this case, the excess load is fooling the ammeter into believing there is a unintentional current drain manifesting as a discharging condition.

Funny you should mention that. I have a five output fuse block mounted on the firewall just to the left of the steering column. Tapped into the upgraded alternator feed line and use that to source "RUN B+". So far the only thing connected there is the electric fuel pump.

That is good to know. I've toyed with installing a SNIPER in my SE. Haven't quite convinced myself that is what I really want but still good to know I could run of the alternator feed. Thanks for the info1

Don't know why I thought you had fans... The point Nacho usually tries to make and I agree with is this. Current loads should be sourced from the alternator not the battery. If they are connected to the battery side of the AMMETER then they will result in faults discharging condition. I...

It's not on you diagram. Look up a few posts to the one Nacho posted. Most electric fans are real power hungry so by switching that load to the alternator output and adding the inline protection fuse you should see a considerable drop in what appears to be a charging rate but is actually fan...

If you believe the dual fusible link theory then the diagram Nacho posted supplying the high load fan direct off the upgraded alternator source is by far the better choice. I'd still add an inline fuse for the fan circuit. The way your diagram is now; there is absolutely no protection...

Thanks guys! I was afraid of that. Have not found any at all so far. Any of the newer style better than the others?

I think the one in my '74 is original. It's on its last leg for sure. Does anyone still make the wheel style horn contact style?

Always showing a charging condition says the battery feed line is constantly putting current from the alternator output. Something on that side is loading the circuit. A defective battery might cause that. Also, if you have connected any high current load items direct to the battery or HOT...

Here is my take on this entire situation..... Back when our classic vehicles were designed and built the current load on the electrical system was MUCH LESS than we have demanded with modern accessories and modifications. Hence the reason to upgrade the circuit design. If you also bypass...

Sorry, no photos for Buckets. Yes I did convert from bench seat and to be honest I don't remember how I determined hole locations.

Here is a picture of my '74 with console in place. The down shaft is quite away forward from the shifter.

It is not the distributor that gets damaged. The coil gets too hot and cooks because the Ballast resistor is not there to reduce voltage/current flow to it. You would most likely need to replace your ignition system to match up things. Disregard what I sent you about the simple circuit!! I...

I'm guessing the engineers didn't take into consideration our 50 year old technology. I seem to recall reading about guys using alternator output power (dirty power) instead of clean battery positive terminal power then having occasional issues. The down side to using the battery power is that...

Actually. you were more correct with your first understanding of blue and brown wires. The brown wire (145BR) comes from ignition switch in "START" position to feed full battery power to the coil. When you release the "Start" function then power comes to the ballast resistor via the blue...

One more time.... Unless some has a better idea we are believing the original speaker was 8 OHMs. To give your car one speaker in dash and two speakers on the rear deck and load the radio output with 8 ohm impedance; you will need to do this. First wire the rear speakers together in parallel...