RO 23 Hood scoop

Need a little help locating an aftermarket/OE RO 23 hood scoop that will be affixed to my 66 Belvedere. Anyone know of any sources?

Thanks in advance

Mopar or no car!

not sure on the number but wwwpaddockparts.com has the superstock type hoodscoop on there site. The part number they show is pad03834. The scoop on the website is $154.95 plus shipping.

VFN has a 5" high R0 scoop or a standard height. AAR has them WS racing,and Sledcity...I'f I did a functional scoop looking for improvement I'd go the VFN 5", it's $140.00 plus shipping.
http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm
Click on catalog then factory style scoops at the bottom of that page.

Thanks guys, love your cars. Gary 67...have you had the 66 down the track? If so whats the best your car has run? BB I guess?

I appreciate the help.

Mopar or no car

AARs is a nice heavy piece, kramers also has them and we used a sled city scoop on a buddys 66 charger took a little grinding and sanding to it but it came out real nice.

Gary67/ VFN fiberglass has a few things I need including the 5" scoop, looks alot better than the one at paddock. I had been looking and they were the only ones I had found. Do you know anyone that bought any bumpers from VFN, price is good, Quality??
Scott

Thanks guys, love your cars. Gary 67...have you had the 66 down the track? If so whats the best your car has run? BB I guess?

I appreciate the help.

Mopar or no car
I have a best so far of 11:59 @119.65 mph. It's a 440 30 over iron head motor. I am not taking it out again till I get a rollbar installed. I Haven't really hard launched it yet, It has plenty more in it, just need to make some safety upgrades.

Gary67/ VFN fiberglass has a few things I need including the 5" scoop, looks alot better than the one at paddock. I had been looking and they were the only ones I had found. Do you know anyone that bought any bumpers from VFN, price is good, Quality??
Scott
I have a vfn front bumper, but I traded a scoop I had for it, didn't buy new. It fits ok, I think the guy I bought it off of smoothed the upper portion a bit with a dremmel or similar tool. Haven't seen one straight out of the box....

Thanks again for the replies, while ultimately I want a functional scoop with max performance, I like the way the stock profile of the ro 23 looks. I am a bodyman by trade and my experience is there are no perfect fiberglass parts out there, so modifying or straightening the parts is a given. The car I have came with front and rear glass bumpers as well as glass front fenders, not sure of the manufacturer, will check when I get home. Gary 67, are you running leafs out back/stock or SS suspension? I remember my old 66 being a handful with a healthy 440. As I am about to finish the mini tub area I am trying to determine what to do for rear suspension to make the car more managable on the street and strip.

Thanks again for the replies, while ultimately I want a functional scoop with max performance, I like the way the stock profile of the ro 23 looks. I am a bodyman by trade and my experience is there are no perfect fiberglass parts out there, so modifying or straightening the parts is a given. The car I have came with front and rear glass bumpers as well as glass front fenders, not sure of the manufacturer, will check when I get home. Gary 67, are you running leafs out back/stock or SS suspension? I remember my old 66 being a handful with a healthy 440. As I am about to finish the mini tub area I am trying to determine what to do for rear suspension to make the car more managable on the street and strip.

Really? Was it stock 318 suspension? My 66 Hemi Coronet has the factory Police (Hemi) rear springs, has had the torsion bars switched to /6 bars, the sway bar removed, frame connectors, adjustable pinion snubber, adjustable drag shocks and launches at 5000 perfectly straight with drag radials.

Sounds like a plan to me..........

As it was my first BB car at the ripe old age of 18 (28 years ago...ouch) I recall it being a 318 car having the 440 (67 vintage) already transplanted by a previous owner. So yes she was weak in the knees in regards to suspension. At this point I have a relatively blank canvass and just want to get it right off the start. I am thinking SStock springs and bigger torsion bars as this Belvy was a 318 car (however has a Hemi K member) and appears to have the small dia. bars up front. I will need to swap out the Hemi K member for a BB K member (will be up for sale soon). Gary 67 mentioned he wanted to install a cage before he went any further with quicker et's on his car thus my question to him about handling...input is valued here guys...I barely remember driving my 66, 68, or 70 B's and have the chance to do it right!
Thanks

It sounds like you are building this for the strip. If so, I would not use the sway bar. It serves no purpose on a drag car, adds weight on the very front of the car, and some seem to think they even fight what you want the car to do on the strip.

Unless you are going to tub the car you can't get a big enough tire in the wheel well to have a need for the SS springs. They will make your car sit a lot higher in the rear which will transfer more weigh to the front, which is NOT what you want to do. The factory Police (Hemi) springs should be all you need and the car will sit better.

I have an old hot rod magazine interview article with Dick Landy where he is giving his tips for stock class racing modifications that are very subtle things that are pretty much undetectable that make a difference and explains why they work. The /6 torsion bars are one of the things mentioned. The article was from 1969.

Thanks 696pack,
you triggered my memory and sent me digging into my Mopar library I have saved for the last ??? years and found my old Direct connection chassis manual. I am a little torn about the end result of the car...It already has the spring relocation kit installed and wheelhouses removed for extra tire accomodation as well as subframe connectors, the end result will be a pro street configuration, and being its a 318 Belvedere I have a clear conscience with the mods I am planning. Not sure how we got off topic from the ro23 scoop, but its all good. Thanks for the interest and information. The DC manual is a great resource.
Cheers...

I got my scoop from Sled City Fiberglass (614-875-0369). I met Larry at nationals and he was a good dude. I paid about $130 but that was about 2002. It is a good quality piece and has all bolts molded in. Easy install

Wow...thanks for the great picture. I will check them out. I would assume you made it functional. What engine intake setup?
thanks...

Yes it is functional, I cut a hole in the hood with my trusty jig saw. I have a not so mild mannered 440 bored 60 over with a with a performer rpm intake and an 850 speed demon.

Awesome, thanks for your input, love to see more pic's of your car...obviously a Coronet, love the 66-67 B-Bodies...

I've been running a WO23 reproduction hood scoop on my 66 Coronet 500 since I bought it back in 1989. My scoop was made by a company that is no longer in business, so I can't help you there, but if I were buying a new scoop today, I'd be buying it from AAR Fiberglass.

Richard

http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/cart/

Fantastic car, thanks for the shots, especially the underhood...I am taking my 66 with me as well...its all I ask for!

Thank you very much and your 66 will also look awesome with the RO23 style scoop, because I don't think that there is a better looking scoop made than this one for 66-67 B-Body cars.

If your interested, I could show you pictures of the parts I used to seal the carb to the underside of my hood, as it was pretty simple and workss out very well to feed fresh air directly to my carb.

Richard

Thanks for sharing your carb sealing tech...lots of stuff available for our later model B bodies, your setup looks very functional and OEM! It will be a while before I am to this state but helps me in the design phase...very nice. And I agree, for our body style the ro23 is the best looking and most OE appearing. Keeps the nice classic performance look while give us some fresh air! BTW, what did you make the outer gasket from?

The base-plate is a fiberglass reproduction single 4 barrel version of the E-Body Shaker unit that I bought from Year One back in 1991. They still sell this part under part # GC100 and here's a link to Year One's on-line catalog.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1

The hood to base-plate seal is mounted to the base-plase by using 3 inch long pieces of aluminum "L" angle stock that has the pre-drilled holes in it. It was carefully bolted to the base-plate with stainless bolts, nuts and fender style flat washers on both the top side and under side of the base-plate so that I wouldn't over stress the fiberglass when I mounted the angle stock to it. Lock washers were also installed on the underside between the flat washers and the nuts. All of the hardware and the aluminum "L" angle stock were purchased at the Home Depot

The hood to base-plate seal is made by the Armstrong company and is called Armaflex self seal pipe insulation. It was originally made to insulate home air conditioning pipes and is made to fit 3/4 inch copper pipe, or 1/2 inch iron pipe. It has a 7/8 inch diameter and a 1/2 inch wall thickness and is made out of a heavy duty foam. It is split down the middle to alow you to wrap it around the pipe and has a very sticky adhesive material on each side of the split to hold it in place after you instal it. In my application, I stuck it to both sides of the aluminum angle "L" bracket and where there is no angle stock, I stuck it to itself. This product was also purchased at the Home Depot in 6 foot pieces. This product has a long lifespan, as I installed the original piece on the car in 1991 and didn't have to change it until 2006

I'm running a 1969 HP 440 in my Coronet with an original style Edelbrock Torker single plane intake manifold, along with a thick carb to intake manifold gasket and a Holley 750 carb, topped off by the Shaker base-plate and a custom billet air cleaner lid and a 14 inch diameter by 3 inch tall air filter. This set up fits perfectly under my stock steel donor hood and my WO 23 hood scoop. :grin:

Richard

pretty cool, nice job! Looks like it works well and looks good also. thanks for the info.

Yes, thanks alot, I appreciate the detail and the pictures, great job...

Thanks very much guy's. It works well for me and it's also a very light weight set-up with the fiberglass, aluminum and foam materials. If your running an intake manifold that sits lower than my Torker does, you could just use different material for the foam seal mounts to adjust for your needed heigth to the underside of your hood.

Richard

Bankerstoy, have you had the Coronet down the 1/4 mile? How do you find the Torker for streetability? I realize its not a radical single plane, more I am curious about its performance. I am thinking about an RPM Performer for the BB I am assembling but recall on an earlier (much earlier) 440 I had with a Weiand single plane having pretty good success and performance. What other things have you done to your 440? Your car is along the lines of where I would like my car to be as an end result.
Thanks!

I ran a Torker on a 383 for a long time. No problems. Should be fine on a 440, since they don't lack bottom end anyway.

I had my car set up to run in the NHRA Division 7 "Street Legal Class" while I was running the car in what was originally called the Firestone TNN E.T. Racing Tournament which then became the Sears Craftsman E.T. Racing Series. The fastest you could run in this class when I was racing was 12.99 and my car ran from 12.99 to mid 13's depending on who I was running. ;) It is a VERY mild, but well built engine, along with a very well built transmission that has given me ZERO problems since they were installed back in 1991. :grin: The car has great throttle responce but has a REALLY lousy vacuum out put at idle, which has caused me problems with the power brakes and the A/C system before I removed the A/C for racing. I have installed one of the Master Power Brakes vacuum pumps to try and solve this problem, but have not driven the car with it in place much yet, so I can't tell you for sure it my problem is solved yet.

The main points of my drivetrain include a modified 1969 HP block with matching steel crank, main caps and a set of preped standard length rods, 9.7 to 1 compression ratio, TRW forged pistons, Seal Power rings Mopar Performance .484 - .284 flat tappet camshaft, chrome rockershafts with Mopar Performance stamped steel six pack rocker arms and push rods, 452 cast heads with Mopar Performance standard size intake and exhaust valves, Hemi spec valve springs, Mopar Performance locks and keepers, the original style Torker single plane intake manifold, a custom built 750 Holley 3310 carb and a set of 1969 hp Mopar cast exhaust manifolds dumping the spent gases into a custom built 3" exhaust system that dumps in front of the rear axle assembly and a set of hp mufflers. All of the car's fuel lines have been upgraded from the original 5/16" lines to 3/8" lines and I run a hi-performance Mopar Performance mechanical fuel pump with a Fram HP-1 canister style fuel filter back by the new reproduction fuel tank.

The transmission is a full manually shifted Torqueflite 727 with a reverse shift patten manual valve body and a B&M Quicksilver console mounted shifter with a Hurst Line-Loc unit attached to the "T" shifter handle.

The rear end is the car's original 8.75 housing that has had the original 2.76 non Sure-Grip center chunk replaced with a Sure-Grip unit and a set of 3.91 gears with the original axles. The drivers side left hand thread wheel studs have been converted to right hand thread studs and the original 1966 single line power front drum brakes have been converted to a Master Power Brakes dual line power disc brake set-up with 11" drilled and slotted rotors.

WAY MORE information than you wanted, but hope it helps you out. :)

Richard

You want to solve your vacuum problem, change that cam to Bob K's blueprinted six pack cam. It WILL run faster than that, and give you 18-19" vacuum at idle

You want to solve your vacuum problem, change that cam to Bob K's blueprinted six pack cam. It WILL run faster than that, and give you 18-19" vacuum at idle

:confused:, more information please? I don't race anymore, so I'm not worried about going faster, but I'm very interested in getting 18-19" of vacuum at idle to run my brakes and new A/C system that will be going back in the car soon.

Richard

I sent you a PM

I sent you a PM

Received and thank you very much!

Richard

Thanks boys, Bankerstoy, never too much information...it is very much appreciated. I have a set of 452 castings being dressed right now and have been on the edge with a couple other decisions such as stock bore vs. a stroker kit from 440 source. With my heads being ported and flow bench tested I just may stay put with the stock bore. Not sure if the heads could keep up with 500 ci. Your notes on your build help alot coupled with input from many others on this forum. The reason I asked about your torker is I have spotted various Torkers, Torker II's, Street dominators etc on Ebay. Thanks 69runner for you input on the camshaft, that's another decision coming up shortly, which will have a bearing on the braking system...Cheers!

One other question for you Bankerstoy, your babies front suspension ride hieght, is that just through torsion bar adjustment? Or do you have modified upper and lower control arms/spindles...The ride height just looks mean!

One other question for you Bankerstoy, your babies front suspension ride hieght, is that just through torsion bar adjustment? Or do you have modified upper and lower control arms/spindles...The ride height just looks mean!

My 69 HP block is bored 30 over and has had all of the internal oil passage ways opened up to 1/2" Hemi specs to help improve the oil flow. I'm also running a Mopar Performance hi-flow oil pump and windage tray and a Mopar Performance 6 quart oil pan and 1/2" oil pick-up tube and screen assembly now that the car is going back on the street.

My front suspension was all rebuilt for the second time since I've owned the car, back back in 2000. I bought all new parts including poly bushings from a company called Performance Suspensions here in Phoenix AZ. http://www.performancesuspension.com/

All of the cars original upper and lower A-arms were media blasted and powder coated. All of the other new front suspension parts were also powder coated along with the K-member. Heavy duty Hemi spec torsion bars are used and a set of KYB gas filled shocks are used on all four corners. No front or rear sway bars were used as my lower front control arms do not have the sway bar mounting tabs and I didn't feel like paying for new lower A-arms to make that happen. The cars stance is a result of setting the torsion bars a bit lower than stock. The rear suspension is made up of the original 8.75 rear end and a set of the Mopar heavy duty leaf springs with added poly bushings and the KYB shocks.

Richard

Thanks a million Richard, your car has the perfect stance. The 66' is gorgeous, your input is very much appreciated. The last picture shows just how straight she is...66's forever!
-Jeff

Thanks a million Richard, your car has the perfect stance. The 66' is gorgeous, your input is very much appreciated. The last picture shows just how straight she is...66's forever!
-Jeff

Thanks Jeff! :grin: Here's what she looked like when I bought the car in 1989. The only items that I had added at the time of these pictures in 1990 was the WO23 hood scoop, the donor hood with a crappy flat black paint job and the American Racing Champ 500 wheels and new tires. The body was rust free and in great shape except where a large truck had backed into it on the passenger side quarter panel just behind the front door while the previous owner had the car. :( The interior was another matter though, as you can see in the pictures. It still had ALL of the original interior parts and pieces, including the dash pad, carpet, door panels, seat covers and head liner. Man, those were some NASTY seats!!! :black_eye:

Richard

Awesome...

Hello Bankerstoy, What wheel size and backspace do you have on the rear of your coronet. Thanks

Hello Bankerstoy, What wheel size and backspace do you have on the rear of your coronet. Thanks

The American Racing Champ 500 wheels that are shown in the pictures above during it's restoration back in 1990 were 15 x 7 on all four corners, but I don't remember what the back spacing was.

The Weld Draglight wheels are part #90-57348 and are 15 x 7 on the rear with a 4 1/2" back space and the front's are part #90-54342 and are 15 x 4 with a 2 1/4" back space.

Jegs has the rears under their part #927-90-57348 for $209.99 each

front's are Jegs part #927-90-54342 with a list price of $195.99 each.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Weld+Racing/746346/10002/-1

When I was drag racing the car, I ran Mickey Thompson 26x10.5 x15 Sportsman Pro drag radials's on the rear and Mickey Thompson 26x7.5 x15 Sportsman Front Runners on the front.

Now that the car will be back on the street, I'm running B.F.G. P235-60R-15 Radial T/A's on the back and B.F.G. P185-60R-15 Traction T/A's on the front.

The pictures of the car without the race decals are with the B.F.G. street tires and the two pictures with the decals are with the Mickey Thompson drag tires.

Richard

Thanks bankerstoy for the information.

good website for these and older b-bodies and other stuff too. http://www.kramerauto.com

In conversations with former Ramchargers driver and NHRA record holder and race engine engineer Mike Buckel we have talked a bit about hood scoops. They did proving in wind tunnel tests that the 1st gen hood scoops like mine:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2260/2527795192_29acec87fd_o.jpg

did absolutely S.F.A. Only helped give the car the race look. The R023 was better but still not really effective. The only ones that they saw any real results was the scoop off the Hurst Hemi Darts and Barracudas. They found the best induction was a cowl induction like in NASCAR application and that is why NASCAR uses it to this day. Now there are other manufacturers that make the original style hood scoops with increased heights that make them work better. I have seen my style with a 7" height, you would start to get more of a look like this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/2628233815_23686326e5_o.jpg

So from this, do you want it to work (68 Hurst Hemi's) or do you want it to look cool and period correct.

As Mr. Buckel passes on more engineering tests I will be sure to share them with the list.

The scoop that was used on the 69 1/2 cars worked pretty well cause it was up off the hood and the barrier layer. Also the T/A scoop (lifted and inverted from the belly of a P-51) was maybe the best of all. I also read somewhere that Mopar figured out you had to have at least 30 square inches of opening for it to do you any real good.

racer brown in maryland aslo makes them

I'm not sure who makes them, but I do know that someone is now making a 5" high version of the WO23 and RO23 scoop that wasn't available back in 1989 when I bought my orginal style 2 1/2" tall WO23 scoop.

My personal opinion is that I don't think that the 68 and up style hood scoops look very good on the pre 1968 B-Body cars. :no:

Richard

I prefer the era correct scoop on the car. The wrong qne for the wrong era looks out of place.

Thanks 63hemipolara,
good info, beautiful car and cool graphic rendering. My first choice is period correct. Performance counts of course, I may modify mine to grab a little more air. I have a picture of a modded one in a magazine, I will dig it up and post it. I will check out Racer Brown's site. BTW, who did the graphic of the Polara, its very cool...
Cheers and Merry Christmas.

Here is a modded ro23, not my cup of tea but another example.

Thanks Alleyoopmgv, sent Kramer auto an email requesting pricing for the RO23 scoop, will advise when he corresponds.
Thanks.

I was looking at Kramers website the other day and the catologs are not up and running. They are suppose to have a couple different heights on the scoops they are going to have. Let us know what they say when they respond.

They emailed me and said they are out of scoops right now as they are looking for a new fiberglass guy...they will contact me when they have more stock. The price was 295.00 for the RO23. I'll keep looking, Merry Christmas all!

Thanks 63hemipolara,
good info, beautiful car and cool graphic rendering. My first choice is period correct. Performance counts of course, I may modify mine to grab a little more air. I have a picture of a modded one in a magazine, I will dig it up and post it. I will check out Racer Brown's site. BTW, who did the graphic of the Polara, its very cool...
Cheers and Merry Christmas.

Merry Christmas,
the guy who did the rendering is the most talented guy I have ever met. He lives in N.C. and can be contacted at this email address: bruceanliker@yahoo.com His rates are VERY reasonable and his work is phenomenal as you can see. Tell him Steve with the Polara sent you. :grin:

Merry christmas and a happy new year to everyone, there familys and the hotrods!!

Here's a 66 Coronet convertible that's currently for sale on ebay with 1968 model year tail stripes and 1969-1970 A & B-Body dual hood scoops that illustrates what I mean when I say that even though the tail stripes and hood scoops look awesome on the cars that they were designed for, I don't like the look of either one on the 66-67 B-Body cars. :no: Just my opion though.

Richard

Here's a 66 Coronet convertible that's currently for sale on ebay with 1968 model year tail stripes and 1969-1970 A & B-Body dual hood scoops that illustrates what I mean when I say that even though the tail stripes and hood scoops look awesome on the cars that they were designed for, I don't like the look of either one on the 66-67 B-Body cars. :no: Just my opion though.

Richard
I second that one Richard, ruins the flow of the car...

VFN sells the 3" and 5"!

http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm

Thanks 440 Brew, I have emailed them inquiring about shipping and purchase. Prices are decent.