Torsion Bar Won't Budge!

Hi, All-

I am taking apart the front end of my 66 Charger and will be media blasting/painting all metal components and replacing all bushings with polygraphite bushings from PST. Big front sway bar, disc brakes, etc.

I've got both steering knuckles off the car and torsion bar screws (Pre-load screws?) completely backed off, meaning the front end is 100% unloaded. I was able to get the passenger side torsion bar out using my removal tool. (lots of hammering) The drivers side bar just will not budge! I have a super beefy clamp on the bar (made from 3/8" angle iron and 1" hot rolled steel with a semi-circle milled for clamping) I have been hammering on this for hours, to the point I am deforming the angle iron. There is now a nice shallowed-out spot in the middle of the hammer surface.

This can't be a new problem, and I am sure someone out there has experienced this at least once. (Stubborn T-bar) I've soaked the torsion bar inside of its socket (at the back hex) with penetrating oil, but it still will not move. I've even moved the clamp as far back as possible, leaving only an inch or so between the clamp and the cross member to maximize the hammer blows. Nothing.

I am almost to the point where I am going to get out the cutting torch and separate that bar. (No load on it...so no chance of the system suddenly unloading and causing major damage to me or the car)

Any advice on a better way to get this thing out?

Thanks in advance for your help.

That sure sucks...I feel for you. Sorry, but I gotta ask (since you didn't mention it)...the clips are out, right? Otherwise, I've got no ideas for you.

I agree, are the clips removed?

Yep...the clips are out. I should have mentioned that.

Lots of penetrating fluid and maybe let it soak in for a day or so.....

Since you are rebuilding the front end try taking the nut loose from the pin that holds the lower control arm to the K-member. Put another nut on the pin to protect the treads and hammer the whole assembly back. This will force the T-bar out of the socket.
Good luck and be carful not to damage the threads.

I had the same problem, it is common. Noone had the perfect solution.
I manhandled mine until it finally came loose. I got to the point where I decided to replace them, so then I went at it will clamps and heat which will ruin the bar.

The heat and clamps didn't work well, in the end I used a really big pry bar and a weird angle.

If someone has a sure fire, non-damaging trick, I would love to hear it.

Randy

Have you tried to use the tool that is made for taking out the t bars?

The tool I have is similar to the one I see in the 1966 repair manual. Not exactly the same, but serves the same purpose.

I did finally get that t bar out yesterday. I put the oxy-acetylene torch to the back side of the bar inside the socket just to heat it up a bit. Let it cool. One other thing I did was to release some flex in the front end by supporting the K-member. (I had the car up in the air with jack stands on the mid-frame support). A few blows with the hammer and it broke loose, including the lower control arm. That bushing was shot...in a BAD way.

At least it is out!

Glad to hear ya got it out.

The tool I have is similar to the one I see in the 1966 repair manual. Not exactly the same, but serves the same purpose.

I did finally get that t bar out yesterday. I put the oxy-acetylene torch to the back side of the bar inside the socket just to heat it up a bit. Let it cool. One other thing I did was to release some flex in the front end by supporting the K-member. (I had the car up in the air with jack stands on the mid-frame support). A few blows with the hammer and it broke loose, including the lower control arm. That bushing was shot...in a BAD way.

At least it is out!

For anyone else in this position, the "flex" is one of the biggest issues when removing bars. When the car is higher or lower than ride height the lower control arms will still slightly twist the bars making them more difficult to remove. Once the adjusters are backed out, jack the front up just under normal ride height. This has always worked for me anyway.
Glad you got 'em