organasol

So whats everyone using for Organasol ? Are you using PPG 9355 or something else ?

I found this online that I think I may give a shot
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/hrf295.aspx

I would love to find something that I can lay a flat clear over but I dont know how well that will work with a textured paint.

That doesn't say it's metallic, and the original Organosol was metallic

I have to formulas for Organasol also. One has a lot more texture then the other. I have no clue which is correct as I dont believe I have ever seen anything with original organasol on it before.

heres the formulas I have

Strong black DMA358 794.5 or 804
Coarse Poly DMA349 24.4 or 24
Texture DMA364 171.1 or 972

The problem with these are that they are lacquer based and 99% of the cars we do are painted base/clear which means I cant lay this paint over anything.

Here is some SEM HOT ROD black. not bad looking but it just doesnt look right to me on the tail panel. It has no texture. It would look fine on say a 70 Dart hood black out or 71 Duster hood black out though.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a216/adamr78/IM000430a.jpg

looks a little to flat. Needs little more gloss look.. That color Would look good on top the fenders hood on a duster

See, I think its to shiny looking back there. I think the lack of texture to it screws it up also.

I have the 9355 over PPG two stage and no problems. I always remembered that you can put lacquer over enamel but not the other way around (I think I got that right). That rule was before the polyurethane stuff. I remember seeing the formula for organasol calling for aluminum, but I don't think mine has any or if it does it's very little. I would like to get it correct so if anyone has cracked the code let us know. I suppose I can have them add some metallic, but like you said, what's it supposed to look like? The hot rod texture seems interesting.

lacquer over enamel

only after the enamel had dried for a long long time and it would eventualy lift at the edges.. used car guy special....

You need to check in over at the A12forum.com as there have been many, many conversations about this paint and lots of experimentation with different paints. You should find a soultion there.

Thanks, I find some good paint info over there. ot much on the organasol though.

Maybe it was Moparts instead, but on one of the two it seems to come up about every other week or so.

I have a bunch saved from Moparts as well. Most guys seem to be using the lacquer which I would rather stay away from.

Here is something that you may or may not have read.

DDL 9355 if you want the most correct [for the times] finish as the texture additive is not quite like the orig but close enough.

If you use DCC9355 there will be no texture in the paint.

We used the stuff from Eastwood, it seamed to have the right texture and finish.

Rev.

We used the stuff from Eastwood, it seamed to have the right texture and finish.

Rev.


What "stuff" is that? Do you have a number from them?

Oh great, now I will have to go check it out. We did a lift off hood on a Roadrunner and I would swear we got the paint from Eastwood. I will double check on Monday.

Rev.

I used plain old DuPont Chromabase 99K. I blew a couple coats on for coverage, turned the fan off, pulled the gun back about 2 feet and dusted a coat on to get the textured effect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/BlueSS454/Charger%20Resto%20Pics/P3270113.jpg

I used basically the same technique when I painted my dash frame. The texture additive was just too much texture.

Doh! I forgot about this one. Sorry, getting old. Year one sells organasol. It's in their catalog under #QP9355.

Rev.

Doh! I forgot about this one. Sorry, getting old. Year one sells organasol. It's in their catalog under #QP9355.

Rev.
Thats the formula with to much texture I believe.

We have a few things at work to try. One is a single stage HOT Rod black (not the SEM product) Another is a Semi flat clear that goes over regular base coat.

Whats nice about the flat clear is you wont have to worry about what to clean it with. You can wax it without worry about it turning glossy.

The bad part is the clear was $120 for a quart.

Thats the formula with to much texture I believe.

We have a few things at work to try. One is a single stage HOT Rod black (not the SEM product) Another is a Semi flat clear that goes over regular base coat.

Whats nice about the flat clear is you wont have to worry about what to clean it with. You can wax it without worry about it turning glossy.

The bad part is the clear was $120 for a quart.

Im using the ppg base black with the flat clear and yha it's not cheap, but it looks good even after a few years of siting it still looks good.

i,m constantly learning from you good people. thanks for the tittilating tid bits you all bring to the table. ive much to learn but in company of excellent tutors. thank you all.

If I remember correctly, and who knows about my memory at this point, the yearone paint was something north of 150 a quart. Then there was the shipping.....
Adam, your idea sounds way better. I will have my paint shop try it next time. (If I can translate it correctly.....)

Rev.

i got mine from totally auto, i think i paid like 120 a quart and u can buy it in a spray can too

Has anyone tried Totally Auto's stuff? They're advertising it in a shaker can.

I have never used the Totally Auto stuff but we have a few new ones to try at work.

One is Spies hecker Rally Black which I have heard lot of positive comments about, The other is made by Rubber Seal called Hot Rod black.

you can put enamel over laquer, not the other way (unless like someone said, it had dried for a VERY long time, and even then you need to use a fast drying thinner) If you put lacquer over a semi fresh enamel, the thinner for the lacquer is too hot and has the tendency of wrinkling or lifting the enamel under it.

Someone else was talking about using a technique of backing the gun way off and dusting the paint to get a texture, that works, but I'd suggest that if you do that, put another wet coat over it once it's done to ock the dusting on. When you back off like that, you're letting the paint dry a little before it hits, so you actually have little particles hitting and sticking. If you don't do something to lock it on, it could just dust off as you wash the car.

On another subject, for smaller parts, I've been using Duplicolor engine enamel, low gloss back. It covers good, and doesn't have the tendency to change glossiness depending on how thick a coat you put on, the sheen stays the same, or evens out as it dries. It's always been a problem for me with mixed semi goss to have a sag or something run a line of gloss and the areas right beside it to have the correct gloss. Just for the heck of it, I painted a whole fender, and it all stayed the same dullness, no signs of the passes like you normally get with a rattle can.