High amp alternator for my 67 GTX

I,m in the need for more power...Not the motor but in juice...I,m runnin alot of stereo stuff plus my msd stuff and the stock unit can,t keep up...What can I use that will keep my mopar still lookin stock...I don,t want to have to go to a stupid chevy(sorry) setup...Any feedback will help!!
Petty Blue 67 GTX

I had the same problem trying to power twin electric fans, electric fuel pump, stereo, etc. Got a 100 amp Powermaster from Mancini (stock looking, not chrome) and it works great. However, absolutely remember to upgrade your lead wire to the main terminal on your solenoid (use 8 ga.) and be sure to use a fusible link (two sizes smaller)--you don't want to burn down your car. While you're at it, it's a good idea to by-pass your in-dash alternator gauge and use a voltmeter--too many Mopar owners walk home because Mother Mopar wired the charge to the battery through the alt. guage and it's the weakest link. There're specific instructions on how to do this posted on several web sites.

Sounds good!!!Thanks man..
Petty Blue 67 GTX

What is a stock Amp putting out? I have a Power Master 75amp. Are there any guide lines to know if I have enough Alt. I am running fan,electric H2O pump,fuel pump,MSD and the normal stock stuff. I have it wired to a master cut off switch. I removed wire from the firewall bulkhead, upgraded it and ran it to the cut off switch. The car shuts down when switch is turned off. Fan/water/fuel all have in line fuses(30A) and in the process of putting relays in place.

What size in line fuse should I run for the Alt. wire to cut off switch?

What is a stock Amp putting out? I have a Power Master 75amp. Are there any guide lines to know if I have enough Alt. I am running fan,electric H2O pump,fuel pump,MSD and the normal stock stuff. I have it wired to a master cut off switch. I removed wire from the firewall bulkhead, upgraded it and ran it to the cut off switch. The car shuts down when switch is turned off. Fan/water/fuel all have in line fuses(30A) and in the process of putting relays in place.

What size in line fuse should I run for the Alt. wire to cut off switch?

I could be wrong, but stock for most of our years was a 65~ amp. Later factory upgraded to a 78~ amp. When they went to the 100 amp, the alternator body changed.

Yeah I got a 65 amp now...It,s not enough for my msd,h4 headlights and a 1000 watt amp for my stereo...My wife likes her music LOUD!!!!I,m lookin at a couple now...Mancini racing has a good one...Thats probably gonna be my choice...Summit has a chrome one that is 100 amp by tuff stuff for 154 bucks...It,s a one wire too...
Petty Blue 67 GTX

Denso alternator has amps of 90'130 and up.Mopar upgraded to them.Junk yard has them cheap you can get the kit to mount them from Mancini.What most people need is more amps at idle also make sure you have relays also,fuel pump,fans,headlights,waterpump,air cond it helps a lot.

The stock roundback grounded-field (or "single field") alternator came from the factory in variants ranging from 27A to 60A. The one-year-only '69 Imperial roundback alternator for use with a 3-pin electronic regulator came in one rating only, 60A. The '70-'71 roundback isolated-field alternator for use with a 2-pin electronic regulator came in ratings from 30A to 60A. The squareback ('72+) isolated-field alternator for use with the 2-pin electronic regulator came in variants ranging from 46A to 78A. These alternators, even when new, didn't produce anywhere near their max output at engine idle speed. Now, forty-odd years later, there are additional problems: the wiring and connections are old and have higher resistance than when they were new. The alternator has very likely been replaced, probably with a thrown-together "remanufactured" unit that has even poorer low-rpm charging than the original. The voltage regulator is also old and no longer as quick or efficient as when it was new. The whole electrical system relies on grounds through body sheetmetal; these were (barely) okeh when new but they're no longer new. The ignition switch, headlamp switch, high/low beam switch, wiper switch, and ammeter (through which all the current in the car passes) are old and have high internal resistance. All of these factors add up to create the problem.

Before you toss a higher-amp alternator on your car, see here (http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32864) (including links) and here (http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=741400#post741400). Also run a ground loop of 12ga wire from the alternator housing to the voltage regulator base, and from the voltage regulator base to the battery negative terminal.

The alternator you're after for the easiest, least-costly upgrade is from an '88-'91 Dodge Dakota, D-series truck, or B-series van with a 3.9 V6, 5.2 V8, or 5.9 V8; or an '88-'89 M-body (Diplomat, Gran Fury, New Yorker Fifth Avenue, or Canadian Caravelle). Does not matter if it's the Chrysler (http://search.waiglobal.com/partnum.aspx?part=7552) unit, the Bosch (http://search.waiglobal.com/vehiclelookup/partnum.aspx?part=14789N) unit (shown w/serpentine-belt pulley), or the Nippondenso (http://search.waiglobal.com/vehiclelookup/partnum.aspx?part=13184N) unit (shown w/serpentine-belt pulley); all three are physically and electrically interchangeable. The Nippondenso is the best design, also the smallest and lightest -- it's the one that looks like a ¾-scale Mopar alternator, with the rounded, finned housing halves. Any of these three is much more efficient and has much better low-RPM output than any of the older Chrysler-designed alternators. They come in two ratings: 40/90A and 50/120A. The first figure is max output at engine idle speed; the second is max output regardless of speed. In the '88-'91 applications listed above, they have the two-groove V-belt pulley you'll need, and electrically it'll hook up to any earlier Mopar regulator. You can use the '67-style regulator (though please make it a Standard-BlueStreak VR-128 or a NAPA Echlin VR-1001 solid-state electronic item) by simply connecting your car's one and only existing field wire to one or the other of the new alternator's field terminals and grounding the other alternator field terminal. Or, you can go to the '70-up electronic regulator and use both of the new alternator's field terminals. Shave 1/8" off the front of the existing "lower" (pivot, not upper slider) bracket.

Don't get a "remanufactured" alternator from a parts store; they're junk. Also avoid the aftermarket "100% new!" items, which are Chinese copycat garbage.

Other options: there are these bracket kits (http://www.arengineering.com/alternatorbracket/ND_bracket/denso.html) to put the Toyota version of the Nippondenso alternator on. That's functionally fine, though I don't prefer it because the Toyota alternators are internal-regulator items. It means if the regulator fails you are dead in the water until you replace the alternator. With an external regulator you can replace just the regulator. More of a philosophical objection than a practical issue; the internal regulators (and the external ones, for that matter) seem to hold up okeh over the long haul.

Also, yes, put in headlamp relays (http://www.allpar.com/fix/electrical/headlights/index.php).

Now that is a reply. Love it. A ton of information.