440 guidance?

Does anyone know what I should plan for when I put a 440/727 combo in a 1974 sat/roadrunner clone. Such as new engine mounts and where I can buy them at

Theres a place on the net, engineswaps.com I think it is. There also known by (Spelling!) Schmaucher creative services, that specialize in swap kits. I used them for my 79 Magnum to swap out a 318 to a 400. Everything worked excellent except the hose's for the A/C.

I also used them for my Duster swap. A slant 6 to a 318. (Geeee, where did I get the 318 from? LOL ) and again, like above, everything worked out great except the A/C lines.

There kit is approx. $150 w/$11 or so shipping to your door. The new mounts are power coated black and the instructions are very very good.

You'll need a drill, various size bits to drill a hole in the pearch from small to big and a cut off wheel. (A hack saw would do it, but that's work!)
They even give a template.

Tranny lines may have to be bent a slight bit. Nothing to worry about.

Engine to rad hose's may need to be addressed. Water outlet on the water pump may be an issue. Year dependent.
A 904 to 727 trans swap , if your current set up is a small block, will need to have the driveshaft shortened alittle.

Wiring harrness may need to be addressed a bit. Just splice and lengthen or shorten wires as needed. Just do the job right and well so there won't be an issue.
New heater hoses.

Yeah, it's really no big deal. I did a swap on a 68 Satellite wagon where I took out the 318/904 and installed a 440+6/727 and still left the p/s, p/b, and a/c. In that case I used the same trans mount and motor pads, only changing the plates that attach to the block. I had to lengthen the distributor lead, which I think was the only wiring change I had to make. Obviously the exhaust will need to be redone, as well as the driveshaft like rumblefish already said.

All in all it's a pretty easy swap to do. And again like rumblefish I have a 72 Duster that has a 360 in it using Schumacher mounts.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

thanks for all the info. my dad gave me his satellite when i mentioned restoring it, so might as well go big or go home :)

About your username. You have a Cougar? Just wondering cause I recently acquired an 88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe 5 speed

oh the screen name dates back to my high school mascot

10-4

There is what looks like a 1967 Cougar for sale down the street, is it worth taking a look at?

I think 67 was the first year. It could be something cool, just like that xxxx Mopar in the field around the corner. I believe those Cougars had hide away headlights and sequential tail lights, and general construction wasn't much different than a Mustang.

Like Mopars, Cougars have a loyal and somewhat disturbed following:grin: And like Mopars it might be worth picking up....depending on what, and how much. There were some performance versions of Cougars.

I've owned 4 Mustangs (including my current GT) and I just bought this Tbird, but I'm not a Ford guy. I'm a car guy who likes Mopars best.

Go have a look

Ill stop on the way home and take a look at it, it definitely has hideaway headlights.

Your change over is so simple it hurts. You can buy big block 74 Road Runner spool mounts at autozone for under $40.00. Your trans mount is the same.
Mancinie racing has the 727, small ujoint you need for about $30.00. Using stock spool mounts [the way those things are made anything else is a waste of money] you don't have to drill holes. You'll need a 72 or newer 400 or 440 water pump housing. That's the year big blocks went to the passenmger side lower radiator hose. On your A/C lines you'll need to measure how much longer the lowside line needs to be [ the highside with a little routing will be fine]
Remove the lowside line and put it in a vice at first one bend then the other.
Heat each bend one at a time until you can push some of the bend out. You'll find that it will give you enough to hook it back up. And if you sand and point the line no one can tell what you did. Have a locale driveline shop shorten your drive shaft. Put the yoke in the trans and pull it out one inch. Now measure from the center of the ujoint hole to the center of the rear ujoint hole. That is what you give the shop and tell them its ujoint center to center. You will have to make most of your engine wires longer. To do that cut about 6 inches back from the wire connector. splice the new piece of wire between the end and the cars wire. Be sure to use sold. and shrink sleeves to prevent shorts. After you tape the harness back up only you will know what you did. Start to end the wires will be the same color and habve the correct ends.

oh the screen name dates back to my high school mascot

Just what year did you graduate? :grin:

$40 from autozone, sweeeeet. I didn't realize the K frame was the same for big and small blocks in the B bodies. I know it's the same for E bodies and that trick works.

rumble, I just figured you knew of some change they had made to them along the way. Unlike the A's, the B's had always had the same K for V8s....except the Hemi.

Naaaa, I didn't know that. So my Magnum has a K-frame that simply needs a big block motor mount to put in a big block from a small block powered car?

Not all K-members are equal. Some years the K-member is the same on B body small blocks and big blocks and some years they are not. Some A-bodies use different K-members depending on if they have power steering or not. This information comes from the mopar K-member frame guide for years 1964 thru 1974. Happy motoring!!

Not all K-members are equal. Some years the K-member is the same on B body small blocks and big blocks and some years they are not. Some A-bodies use different K-members depending on if they have power steering or not. This information comes from the mopar K-member frame guide for years 1964 thru 1974. Happy motoring!!


Interesting. If you've got it, can you post it?

I will try to post it this weekend. I have a copy, just have to scan it and post it.

Groovy:grin:

here is the K-member part numbers by year and motor. I only had 1964 to 1974.

we ended up with two copies of the 1964-1970, have to put 1971-1974 on here later.

here is the 70 to 74 numbers. Here is some good info for future use.

Thanks for posting! About the only thing out of the ordinary I see is a different K for a 383 "A" with P/S Vs a 383 "A" without P/S

I pick up my baby this weekend. 440/727 combo out of a 1977 truck, and she is pretty..the 900 cfm carb gives me goose bumps. I do have my next brainteaser, just let me wipe up my drool. Okay, she's a big engine and I dont plan on doing much, but I have got hung up on what kind of a cam to replace the factory one with. Im thinkin about one with a rough idle, but like most things I'm in the dark on what the proper specs are and which brands people prefer.

Give the good folks at Comp Cams a call. Tell what your combo is and they'll help you make the right choice.

yeah, I think I'll do that.

Hold on kids.
Starting with the Isometric K-members in '73, there is a different K-member for /6, smallblock and bigblock. You will need to either find an original big block K member or purchase the Schumacher conversion mounts. (I picked up the mounts for my '73, more cost effective than locating a used K, paying for shipping, and then the whole cleaning and painting process.)
Earlier V8 K's would accept small or big block engines providing you have the proper brackets on the block. The Hemi used a different animal all together. The P/S K's simply had additional support in the stearing chuck area.

As for the cam, go with either Comp Cams or Hughes. Both of these companies make cams that take full advantage of the larger base circle that makes our Mopars the better engine. Just remember that a bigger cam requires better valve springs and other mods.

Rev.

Thanks for the heads up! Im sure I would have been scratching my head when it came time to drop it in.

Got into the engine today and was happy to find that the only thing wrong was a broken scraper ring. I'm thinking about upgrading the pistons for a better comp ratio. Anyone have success in finding some that offer good valve clearance and a c/r around 10:1?

This kid is 61 yrs old and have owned mopars sense I was 12. The 73 having two different K frames for is because the 73 big block used the old style mount. That has confused a lot of people. Fact the small block 73 K is the same K used for big and small block cars from 74 to 79. All it takes is to buy big block spool engine mounts for a 74 to 79 and bolt the big block in. Been there done that more than one time. I can even remember hot rod magazine telling a p;erson he had to change the K in his small block 68 harger to drope in a buig block. I wrote and ask them if I had to take my 440 out of my 69 and change the K frame.

07 Charger R/T Road and Track package, 73 small block SE Brougham Charger, 73 SE Charger with a 440 siting on the small block K frame.

haha did ya get a reply?

The K-member part numbers I have posted above in this string for all from 1964 until1974

I seem to remember my '73 Charger with a 400 having spool mounts.......

Rev.