69 Satellite 440 Headers

How tight of a fit are headers on these? Will I have to put them on before i put the engine in or is there room to get in after. Thanks

Just don't bolt the motor down. Then you can lift it a bit and slip them in. Most will have to go from the bottom. But sometimes you can slip one in from the top. And depending on which ones you get, you will probably have to have the starter out, and install it as the header goes in.

Forgot. It's no big deal to install the motor and trans as a unit. It's real easy if you pull your front wheels and "nose it down" a bit.

If the engine is out now, lay the headers in there before you drop the engine in. Have a buddy or two hold the headers or use a coat hanger to suspend them while the engine/tranny go in. It's just simply easier that way.

Mine installed better with the nose up as sometimes it was easier to start it at an angle with the collector end lower and then wiggle it in. If the nose was down the collector would hit the concrete before I could get the flange level. Hey, just get some beer, some buddies, a few floor jacks, and get'r done!

I was talking about installing the motor and trans as a unit with a "nose down" attitude. I really thought your reading comprehension was better than that:tongueflap:

My comprehension is fine. To be technical about it, when you use "it" in a sentence you are referring to the noun earlier IN THE SAME SENTENCE! If you pull your front wheels, the nose of the car goes down, which is the "it". I'm going on what you wrote, not what you are thinking. And I stab in a engine/trans combo "tail first" (tailshaft of the tranny goes in first) and not "nose first" - the "nose" of an engine/transmission is the water pump, yes? Dude, you pick on me, I pick back (just not your nose). :rolling:

I figured HE was smart enough to know the "IT" I was referring to when I said "nose "IT" down" was the CAR....NOT the motor/trans assembly.

WTF is your problem anyway?

I like to l;eave the trans crossmember out, unhook the drag link from the idler arm and right tie rod. Then swing it 90 degrees out of the way. Bolt the engine and trans together, bolt on the starter and left header. I lay the right header in the frame and tie it up with string. I put a floor jack under the engine compartmen. So as I let the engine down I can jack up the tail of the trans. Just before iot dropes on the mounts I bolt up the right header. I work by myself and this is the best way I've found for one person to do the install job.

I found a set of Headers for $50. I also found one HP manifold in the car just need to find a drivers side. Would I be ahead just getting a Manifold and puting them on?

Manifolds are easier to deal with as far as running plug wires and changing plugs go. But then you limit yourself to HAVING to run a split profile cam (not a bad thing). So if you were thinking of getting carried away and running a square cam, manifolds aren't the way to go

Well I went and got some parts for my car yesterday and saw a guys 69 GTX with 440 and headers and have decided I'm going to put the HP Manifolds on.

So whatever happened to dropping the K member and installing the motor and trans with all the accessories on it.Then dropping the car on the whole dang thing? It's actually my favorite way to do the swap thing.

Rev.

I wish I had put the manifolds on my Charger instead of the headers. They about hit the power steering box and the right torsion bar and they don't dump out anywhere near the trans crossmember humps.