Poly K-frame isolators install

I am installing a set of "Pro-thane 4-101-BL, Chrysler Sub-Frame Mount B-Body 73-81" today. The originals were completely rotted out. The first one I did I pulled the bottom part of mount off without even touching the bolt. I have only installed the driver side so far. Hoping to complete this evening. I purchased these through Summit Racing for $51.95. About half the price of Energy Suspensions kit. This should really make a difference in the creaks and groans I've been hearing. Should also improve handling a ton. Will let you know how it feels after. Be glad to help with any questions if anyone does this job too.

http://i53.tinypic.com/so4hh1.jpg

This is what they looked like before.

http://i54.tinypic.com/ac7e35.jpg

Driver side rear installed. Have not torqued yet as I still need to do the other side.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2e4ysqw.jpg

Driver side front. Not torqued.

http://i56.tinypic.com/r2rfx0.jpg

Driver side.

Well, Hell yeah, C. I'd sure like to know how easy/hard they were to install. I know my 'Doba is never gonna be a rip-snortin' 1000 hp monster. But it WILL be a proper-handling, 370 (-ish) hp driver. The urethane K-frame bushings are right up my alley. I've been vacillating on whether I want to rebuild the front suspension with OE rubber bushings or upgrade to urethane. I'm leaning heavily towards urethane. It looks like you didnt have to disassemble the suspension to put your K-frame bushings in. Cool. Did you have to lift the engine some to get the weight off? I'm guessing jackstands under the "frame"? Did you put another jack under the K-frame? Let it down slowly? Any weirdness or trouble? Mine's still up on stands so maybe I'll order a set and put em in before I drop it down. Thanks C...3. JY

It wasn't all that horrible. I did not have to disassemble driver side suspension. A bit of prying and a few good whacks with the ball peen... On the passenger side I did have to separate the upper balljoint and pull the four control arm mount bolts to gain space to get bushings in. Not the ones for the alignment but the ones underneath the control arm. You must back the torsion bars all the way down for this. Jack under lower control arm and let down easy after everything is loose. you will gain room to insert bushings.
Probably would be easier to do both sides this way. Take the body mount bushing bolts one bye one, all the way out and run back in a few threads. change one at a time. On one of the solid bushing sites it called for 85 ft. lbs. torque. I may be wrong on this but I put 100 ft. lbs. Any more questions I will be happy to try and answer.

It wasn't all that horrible. I did not have to disassemble driver side suspension. A bit of prying and a few good whacks with the ball peen... On the passenger side I did have to separate the upper balljoint and pull the four control arm mount bolts to gain space to get bushings in. Not the ones for the alignment but the ones underneath the control arm. You must back the torsion bars all the way down for this. Jack under lower control arm and let down easy after everything is loose. you will gain room to insert bushings.
Probably would be easier to do both sides this way. Take the body mount bushing bolts one bye one, all the way out and run back in a few threads. change one at a time. On one of the solid bushing sites it called for 85 ft. lbs. torque. I may be wrong on this but I put 100 ft. lbs. Any more questions I will be happy to try and answer.


I did have a bit of trouble. Lowering the K-frame, I put stress on the power steering pressure hose and sprung a leak. might want to take hose off on one end or the other.

I put solid AL in my magnums

I looked at the solids but thought they might be to extreme.

Solids are the best. I know of a few w/Polys and after a few years, they weren't that happy with them.

Solid one are available from www.solidbushings.com

I just bought this exact kit, but I am a month or so from using them. How did you decided what the top piece and bottom piece was? Looks like you have the piece that has cut sides is on the bottom.

Thanks and great write up

Just a thought here about the solid aluminum bushings. The K-Frame is steel and the subframe is steel yet the bushings are aluminum...a soft metal sandwiched between two hard metals... logically the aluminum bushings would be crushed over time whereas the poly bushings are stiffer than stock yet have some give. No offense intended but the poly looks alot better than the aluminum. Just my 2 cents

I have this kit in a box, ill be glad to have this thread to check back on when the time comes.
How much improvement was there?

dobastyle, This was a major improvement in handling. It stiffened the car up quite a bit. I can't wait to replace the other front end bushings with poly too.

Still havent gotten around to installing my kit, but im happy to hear yours is working well.

You might have already done it but just looking at your upper ball joint in picture 4 makes me think its old and worn. Replacing my upper ball joints made a world of difference in ride quality.

Definitely will get new ball joints when I replace the upper control arm bushings. Plan is to remove, sandblast, and paint all components.

Depending on budget, http://www.firmfeel.com/ has powder coated tube upper arms w new joints and poly bushings for B bodies late as 79. When i have the means im buying these for my 79 300.