Roll Cage?

Toying with the idea of putting an 8 or 10 point cage in my 69 roadrunner. I was looking at getting one from S&W. Any of you have experience buying one of these kits? I see they offer two types. One kit in ews which is 1 3/4 by .134 wall tubing. Other is dom and its 1 3/4 by .120 wall. Anyways im sure this probly been asked before.
Thanks

I have never heard anything bad about a S&W cage.

Where at in IOWA, if your are near the QC you could hit up Winner's Circle and see if they have a roll bar for your car. Bet they do.

I would definitely go with D.O.M. I have thought of doing the same with my 70. One thing I plan to do is keep the front upright as close to the A pillar as possible and through the dash with the crossbar inside the dash. Not easy I know but I really don't like the look of that crossbar under the steering column and at your knees.

Wedge5 im western side, close to sioux city.

Coronet I'm like you id want it as tight to the A pillars too. I was wondering does a guy have to have that dash bar? prob so lol.

thanks

NHRA says yes. Needed so front uprights don't spread during front end jounce or pull in during rebound.

Dash bar is not needed if retaining the stock dash, AND the floor pan isn't removed. You are allowed a decent sized hole for trans inspection, before a dash bar is required.

If you are going to buy a kit, go with the DOM. It's a more consitstant material vs. EWS, and lighter. I've seen EWS not pass a sonic test.

Of you want the A pillar bars to be tight, having someone bend them for you is the only way to go. Kits are generic to a point and not as tight as a custom bent cage.

Jeff

Knee knocker bars needed if factory firewall has been cut or altered.
If you can afford additional $$$ go with chromemoly and save lots of weight.
Just my 2 cents

Alright cool sounds good...i pretty much wanna retain the stock look, so firewall and everything is still there its pretty much a street car..but prob wanna do it right just incase i wanna go quicker i guess i dont know.
thanks

Jeff knows what he's talking about but it wouldn't hurt to get an up to date NHRA rule book either. Seems the rules always change a bit from year to year and a roll cage can be something that's pretty hard to change. Also, depending on how big of a person you are, tack weld the bars in place and then place your seat in the car and get in it. Several years ago I bought a car turn key and the main hoop was about 4" forward of the B pillar (door jamb) and it was not very comfortable but I really didn't notice it until I started making passes. If you are not comfy in the car, you will most likely not be consistent in it.

Thanks Jeff, I missed that one. More than one square foot then 1 1/4" x .118" mild steel needed.

Knee knocker bars needed if factory firewall has been cut or altered.
If you can afford additional $$$ go with chromemoly and save lots of weight.
Just my 2 cents


I AGREE, GO WITH CM. I'd have one done by a chassis builder. Tighter fit, lighter weight with CM.
Cant compare the final result with a custom cage .
here are mine for example.

Wow guys thanks for the wealth of information! I know of couple shops guess ill see about getting some quotes...SSR thats pretty sweet! that would be perfect cause i wanna keep that back seat too.
thanks again

Wow guys thanks for the wealth of information! I know of couple shops guess ill see about getting some quotes...SSR thats pretty sweet! that would be perfect cause i wanna keep that back seat too.
thanks again


The going price for moly cages run from $1500-$1800.00.
Its well worth a few dollars more. Lighter and stronger IMO. Get the swingout with the heim end like in my picture. Its $150.00 to do but much better than the cheap S & W swingout kit like in my 65 Plymouth

does anybody know somebody to install cage neat job in my full interior in my 64 330 in ohio ,kentucky or wva building nastalgic Maxie thanks

does anybody know somebody to install cage neat job in my full interior in my 64 330 in ohio ,kentucky or wva building nastalgic Maxie thanks

In TN I would look at www.smartshotrod.com. Ask for Sonny. VERY detailed work, great prices, and a great shop to work with. He is doing my 25.3 chassis in my Coronet:

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/1badcbr1k/The%20Coronet/100_1951.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/1badcbr1k/The%20Coronet/100_1954.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/1badcbr1k/The%20Coronet/100_1943.jpg

Competition engineering, Chris Alston's Chassisworks, Magnum Force Racing, sells some in kit form that are decent if you have some fab skills & don't have a tubing bender you will need to be a good welder & get it certified thru your local NHRA or IHRA etc. tech inspection... Depending on how quick/fast you end up going there are different regulations for different classes, different materials & tubing thicknesses for different diameters or materials, I would suggest to get a rule book & check it out thoroughly... JMO

CM is the only way to go.Custom cage is the best bang for the money.You might pay a little more for a custom cage.The end result will be well worth the exra coin.If you are a good welder or know someone that is you can purchase the CM and bender for less than a grand and custom build it yourself.If you do buy the CM,buy promoly only.This is a US product that has a much better overall quality and finish.