Brake master cylinder replacement

My master cylinder has seen better days, just wondering what options I have for a new one to replace the current (OEM) unit. 63 Fury with manual drums on all 4....master cylinder from the manual is 1" bore, but I'm not sure what else I need to know, or even how to replace it.

There's not much to rebuilding one of them. Maybe a honing, and a kit. Have you tried that route? Is $13 too much? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1347971&parttype=1840&partkey=310275&a=FRc1347971k310275-1900230 There is other info out there about "master cylinder hone" for the tool and measuring the allowable clearances.
Who's your buddy!

A newer unit with dual circuits is safer than the old single pot master cylinders. I had such a wonderful time when a wheel cylinder blew on my '66 Satellite while on the freeway... Limped the car home using lower gears in the Torqueflite and the parking brake. Got home, changed my shorts, parked it until I could swap the master and prop valve out of a boneyard '67. I'm all for upgrading.

If the bore has no pits then honing and a seal kit is OK, but chances are if it's old it's full of rust. I'm with Greg, upgrade that thing.

A newer unit with dual circuits is safer than the old single pot master cylinders. I had such a wonderful time when a wheel cylinder blew on my '66 Satellite while on the freeway... Limped the car home using lower gears in the Torqueflite and the parking brake. Got home, changed my shorts, parked it until I could swap the master and prop valve out of a boneyard '67. I'm all for upgrading.

The same thing happened to me at Long Islad Drawway{RIP}!!Made a low 10 sec pass,went past the finish line and when I went for the brakes there was NOTHING there:eusa_boohoo:Installed a master for a 66/67 "B" bdy with 4 wheel drum.

Much appreciated guys, I will definitely check into honing and re-build for the one I have right now. Everything seems to be "ok" asthetically speaking, but as mentioned I wouldn't mind having a bit more safety built into it with a dual circuit unit. Any suggestions for a dual? I've never had to replace a master cylinder so I'm not to sure what brands are better than others.

Im switching mine over this week to dual line m/c .Much safer and i have the engine out so perfect time to do this.I wouldnt even waste my time or money on a single

What brand did you go with? I see there are a few Wilwood models that "might" work but are there other makes that are "better"?

For me im useing a M/C from a 68-69 dual M/C, a dodge or Chrysler model,but i have power drum brakes .Be sure to get the proper one.my local parts store had it.There are some very good articles ,how to change them if you do some research.

One of the first things I did to my 66 was upgrade it to a dual. I got mine from a 69 Valiant. Not exactly a direct bolt on but it worked....

Good deal, I'll see what's out there. Being that I do have manual drums on all 4 I'd like to get some help with braking...don't have the $$ right now to get a full conversion done, but hopefully some day. Gotta get the rest of the handling and suspension done before I get into that part of it.

Going on 7 months in the resto process so I'm getting pretty close to being done, just need this weather to brake so I can get back to work out in the garage.

Ya know that drums can be made to work better. A lot of people spend big bucks on high dollar disc etc and if your braking needs isn't beyond reasonable or live in a very hilly area, it's possible to go with a better brake shoe and top of the line shoes, or linings, are not all that costly...but if you have small brakes to start with then, upgrading them is a good idea. My 66 had 10" x 1.5 drums on the rear and that's little. When I got rid of the dinky 7 1/4 rear for an 8 3/4, it had 10 x 2 on that and I could tell the difference and when I go back together with a bigger engine, it's going to get a Dana 60 with 11's. Used to run a 68 Road Runner 10.60's with drum brakes and had no problem stopping it.....

Yes i would like to do a brake conversion one day also .Have other prodgects on the go.Im no expert but this is what im doing with my Plymouth,it should be good for a few years

Ya know that drums can be made to work better. A lot of people spend big bucks on high dollar disc etc and if your braking needs isn't beyond reasonable or live in a very hilly area, it's possible to go with a better brake shoe and top of the line shoes, or linings, are not all that costly...but if you have small brakes to start with then, upgrading them is a good idea. My 66 had 10" x 1.5 drums on the rear and that's little. When I got rid of the dinky 7 1/4 rear for an 8 3/4, it had 10 x 2 on that and I could tell the difference and when I go back together with a bigger engine, it's going to get a Dana 60 with 11's. Used to run a 68 Road Runner 10.60's with drum brakes and had no problem stopping it.....

Axle swap is coming hopefully some time in the future...I really want to wait until I swap out the motor though, or at least upgrade the motor I currently have...probably won't be for a few years though. For now, I'm just going to strip and re-coat the axle I have to dress it up a tad. I will definitely look into the better drum/shoe setup, brakes were just done in the Spring last year so I'm just trying to get a list of "to do's" together.

I put 11's on my 66 Belvedere that came from a 69 GTX. They were free to me because the guy was converting to discs. I also put a new dual master and added the lines and metering block from the 69 B body. Two things you will have to do to make this work. One is to get a brake line flare adapter for I think the rear line (available at the parts house) and a new set of ball joints with a special steering designed to clear the deeper 11x3 backing plates.

I'm going to put 10's on the front this time with 11's on the rear...trying to keep the front end as light as possible plus what good is a lot of brake up front when you only have about 4" or so of rubber on the ground? I used to slide the front tires just before the line when bracket racing and wanted to scrub off some speed so having a lot of brakes on the front wasn't really needed.