Aluminum Water Pumps

Looks like my overheating problem maybe related to the pump. Anyone ever have any issues switching to an aluminum water pump? Any considerations when going to an aluminum pump?

Thanks

Only advantage I can see to using an aluminum pump is for weight savings. Otherwise I think it's a waste of money

Yep, that is my thoughts too. Get a new good quality pump. That is sufficient. The only real advantage of an aluminum pump is weight. My opinion.

they dont rust and 440 source has them almost as cheap as steel. milodon moves more water

they dont rust and 440 source has them almost as cheap as steel. milodon moves more water

Cool. If they are around the same money, i say go for it. They are pretty.

Moving more water can cause you problems if you don't need to move more. It's possible to circulate the water so fast it doesn't have time to cool off.

just something to consider

Looks like my overheating problem maybe related to the pump. Anyone ever have any issues switching to an aluminum water pump? Any considerations when going to an aluminum pump?

Thanks

What radiator are you running? What makes you think it is the water pump? Just curious. I have seen aluminum radiators do amazing things for hot running big blocks.... Just saying.

I am running the 22" radiator. New coolant & t-stat installed. Engine runs about 180 until about 25 mins into a drive and then starts to climb all the way up to about 210.

How's the air flow though the radiator?

My (ex) Super Bee was a #'s 383 auto car. Still had the 22" radiator in it, although I added a shroud and clutch fan (hard to find one short enough to fit). I ran a 180 thermostat and an "a/c" waterpump and never had any issues with it at all.....even screamin down the highway twistin 3700rpm with the 3.91 gears.

Find what is causing your problem and don't just try to mask it.

I forgot. That 22" had a 3 row core but did NOT have a higher than original fin count. Do NOT run a radiator with a higher than O.E. fin count

How's the air flow though the radiator?
How can I check the air-flow thru the rad?

My (ex) Super Bee was a #'s 383 auto car. Still had the 22" radiator in it, although I added a shroud and clutch fan (hard to find one short enough to fit). I ran a 180 thermostat and an "a/c" waterpump and never had any issues with it at all.....even screamin down the highway twistin 3700rpm with the 3.91 gears.

Find what is causing your problem and don't just try to mask it.

I forgot. That 22" had a 3 row core but did NOT have a higher than original fin count. Do NOT run a radiator with a higher than O.E. fin count
So, the higher fin count does not mean more cooling power or surface area for cooling right?

not if the air is having a hard time moving thru.

If you believe the radiator manufacturers it does mean more surface area (and technically there IS more surface area). Problem is the tighter the fin count, the less air that they seem to pass. All these "new" cars with all the emissions stuff are made to run at a higher temp than our older cars are. So for them the higher fin count is perfect.

Don't forget steel in contact with aluminum=GALVANIC CORROSION. Use a coated fastener or stainless.

Could it be possible I have the wrong radiator in the car? Both hose outlets/inlets are on the drivers side....

Is it a Mopar radiator? If so, what's the number on the top tank?

Is it a Mopar radiator? If so, what's the number on the top tank?
Yes, it is a Mopar rad, still has the emblem stamped on it. I'll get the #'s on it tonight.

Is it a Mopar radiator? If so, what's the number on the top tank?
I see 2 numbers on the top of the radiator. One is by the Pentastar emblem which is 38086 and the other number is 3443952.

3443952 is listed as a 71 C body 383/440 radiator with auto and heater. Does NOT say w/A/C

3443952 is listed as a 71 C body 383/440 radiator with auto and heater. Does NOT say w/A/C
Sounds like I have the wrong radiator then?? So which one should be in the car for a 383, No A/C and Manual transmission? What source are you looking up this info?

thanks for your help

True, that radiator isn't the correct one "by the numbers", but that's just a numbers thing. If your car is supposed to have the 26" radiator and the inlet and outlet are in the correct location, then I wouldn't worry about it....unless you're bugged about the number on it. Just make sure the radiator is a good one.

I looked the number up in the "white book". To tell you what the "correct" numbered radiator you're supposed to have I need to know what year car (you've told me motor and trans) and whether it originally came with the 22 or 26" radiator.

It's a 70 Roadrunner and from what I can tell, it should have come with the 22" radiator. It looks to be in pretty good shape from what I can tell.

Actually the book only lists one number strictly for 383 and manual trans.
2998954 70 B&E 22" 383 man htr (does NOT specify 2v or 4v, but I'm not sure you could get any manual trans with a 2V)

2998957 B&E 383 2v auto htr

2998960 B&E 383 4v auto htr