When using R-M paint...

I will soon be getting my Charger painted in T5 Copper Irid. by Rinshed-Mason. This was original equipment opposed to the PPG paint which was also used. I want to know a bit more about R-M paints. One question I have is what is the equivelant of DDL9355 (Organosol) for R-M?

RM is very good quality paint. Today's technology from any paint manufacturer far exceedS what was available when the Charger was first painted and you will wind up with a better product if applied correctly. BC/CC is the way to go although this strays from the way Dodge applied the material which was single stage. RM is very good but their top line is Glasurit which is a beautiful product. Can't help you with the Organasol, ask a paint rep for RM (BASF). Hope this helps!

Thanks. I also want to know more about the factory markings and about the factory style paint applications.

I sprayed R-M for just about a year, didn't care for it. Not saying it's not good product, just didn't care for it.

This was a few years ago (around 1998-99)

Very transparent paint. Took a lot of paint for coverage.

Like I said, NOT a bad product, just wasn't used to it.

I'm just kinda stuck on PPG and Sikkens.

I can't remember the equivelant of DDL9355 (Organosol) for R-M. Sorry, wish I could help.

Well I want PPG but I can't find a body guy who uses it. One guy uses Sherwin Williams, and an other guy uses Du-Pont. The '69 Charger however had R-M as original equipment paint so I'm okay with that, really. I've just been told mixing different brands is the biggest taboo ever.

Back a few years ago, when I was stationed in Germany, I used Spies-Hecker with great success! I could not find this brand in the states from 95 till just a few years ago.

Yes, intermixing paint systems is taboo (RM base and Dupont clear), we are not chemists and a lot of money goes down the toilet with experimentation. It may look good at first but if the materials don't chemically bond you're in for a rude suprise down the road. If what you are refering to with mixing systems involves a complete respray (RM originally and a respray with dupont years later) there are no issues, if the car is prepped properly and sealed, topcoating with non oem materials is fine. The OEM does not use the same type of paint we use anyway, RM,Dupont etc.

All paint manufacturers struggle with transparent colours depending on the toners used in any given mix, and to judge a company on a material used 10 years ago can be a mistake as paint tech changes daily. I know people that swear by one brand and curse another, alot of the times it user preference and familiarity with the product that determines the outcome, not the product itself. I am deep into this industry and am fortunate enough to see most manufacturers products, and they are all pretty amazing. Sher willy is a brand I did not like in the past, but I gotta tell you the company has really inproved its products in the last 5 years.
Don't get too hung up on oe paint, we can never duplicate what they use anyway. And at the end of the day no one could tell the difference if you use a quality brand applied by an experienced applicator. I stand by that.

I agree with you about S-W. :yes:To me S-W is what you paint your house with. I have seen many of the MCR Restorations and they use PPG so I wanted that but none of the local shops use it.

Yeah the chemists have a degree from college and probably many company certificates that say they know what they're doin'.

The body guy wants the car to be in its old ugly "mutt" coat I put on it in a year of random sanding where I feel and covering the bare metal with rattle can self-etcher.

He told me he'd grind each panel separately but I wanted it media blasted. He said $16,000-$20,000 for work, parts and paint. ($5,019.25 of new AMD metal). I don't know what to make of it since the work he does is superb but he wants to sand blast my baby. :sad:

Anyways I need to know abit more about R-M paint. The guy I'm working with is Pete Posemato in Gurnee, IL. Any of you heard of him? This thread is probably gonna end up being about a wide range of topics concerning my Charger's body.

Check out the thread "paint what is best", alot of info there that might help. Also checkout www.basfrefinish.com . Glasurit clear is one of the nicest in the industry and polishes like butter...I have done a couple of cars recently that rival any show finish you may see. Durability is great as well. Glasurit is one step above RM but manufactured by BASF who owns the lot. Sandblasting is ok if kept off open panels, it's also cheaper than media blasting. MB is obviously the first choice if you can find an outfit to do it.
Good luck!

I'll check it out. Thanks.

BTW I did have a place picked out but Pete told me something to the effect of "Media doesn't take off rust only paint, I think you'd be better off not even spending the money on it."

Sorry I looked for it can you gimme a link. I'll keep looking for it though.

Sand will take off the rust, but it will also remove zinc (or any other) factory rust proofing. Also if left in one spot to long it will create heat and can warp the steel

Right On DC.com someone said they warped a Charger hood from 20ft away with sand!!!

sandblasting produces alot of heat, media is the way to go. The link did'nt work for you? Google BASF refinish, they are easy to find...

Oh Ok Thanks again.

Yes, and I am the Media Blaster folks! When I cant' get the rust/crud off after hitting it with Plastic, I then add Alum Oxide mix with Garnet to the existing mix, it takes it off; still low air pressure and good material; not too hard.

I am against sand blasting to the fullest extent unless totally unavoidable. One guy who is 40 miles from me does a 5 Step process.

1 Soda
2 walnut Shells
3 Plastic
4 Glass
5 Aluminum Oxide

For $1200 that's a steal in my neck of the woods (the Chevy Part)

For 1200 and he does all that, he must not want to stay in business? Why would one do that? To me, it makes little sense as Soda is lacking the mass to punch out rust/bondo/etc. Walnut is super cheap compared to Plastic, and it does a very similar job to Plastic. Using Plastic after Walnut is wasting material, labor, electricity for his a/c, glass alone is not a good media to blast with, and Alum oxide is way too heavy to blast as a solo medium, it's super dense. It may sound good...but, in my book and experience it's too good to be true. Hitting it with Plastic first, then hit with the same material with a light mixture of Alum oxide will ensure a clean car, minimum time/materials/resource expenditure. Does this guy have a web site to check out? I do; www.drblast.com

Well I can't remember exactly but it is a 5-step process and he does use soda, walnut and plastic at least. I guess I remembered wrong cause he is really good and has many customers.

Anyways I found a better body guy in Island Lake IL, Kevin of Nostalgic Autobody. Recommended by Jet of racine.

For 1200 and he does all that, he must not want to stay in business? Why would one do that? To me, it makes little sense as Soda is lacking the mass to punch out rust/bondo/etc. Walnut is super cheap compared to Plastic, and it does a very similar job to Plastic. Using Plastic after Walnut is wasting material, labor, electricity for his a/c, glass alone is not a good media to blast with, and Alum oxide is way too heavy to blast as a solo medium, it's super dense. It may sound good...but, in my book and experience it's too good to be true. Hitting it with Plastic first, then hit with the same material with a light mixture of Alum oxide will ensure a clean car, minimum time/materials/resource expenditure. Does this guy have a web site to check out? I do; www.drblast.com (http://www.drblast.com)

Yes, however it is under construction.
He is recommended by 4 of 5 bodyshops I visited, all are legit businesses.

Well, that is great, glad he's providing a good service to the trade! Maybe he's got an inside line to materials at a super cheap rate?

Sorry, I'd let ya know if I were a media blaster too but, hey I'm just a kid with a rust bucket of a car. Soon it won't he cause after it gets media blasted (in any form) I was offered an apprenticeship at the body shop my Charger's going to and I'll be shaving a lot off the the price of the resto!:santa: Merry christmas to me!!!:yes:

Good luck with the job, its great to get payed for a job you want to do.

Thanks. That's true, in that beer commercial the guy Jim Koch says that he's never worked a day in his life for 23 years. hahaha I want to be like that!

So this guy Jet you may know him? He sold the 69 Hemi Charger to a guy is SF and the guy lost his ass in custome home building and sold the 69 to a museum.

This was the green charger at Valenti Classics in New Berlin, WI

Here's a pic.

Sold it to a Museum? I bet he 'donated' it, and took a 100K tax break! Almost worth it...!!!!!

Yeah, he had to liquidate assests and layoff 65 of 70 employees. Then he disappeared as a real estate figure. Check out www.69hemi.com (http://www.69hemi.com) it's all there, but what I told ou is the sweet juicy part, not on there.