361 engine specs

Where can I find out about 1965 361 build info. The car that I am getting had a 361 in it. The engine comes with the car but the car has a 1968 440 currently in it. I am being told that a 361 and a 383 we very similar. I would like to build the 361 to make it have some get up and go. I plan on rebuilding it and then building the 440 for my wife's bracket Dart. I cannot seam to find any info on it or a good combo to build the 361 to get the most out of it.

The 1965 engines are basically the same except the 361 has a bore of 4.125" compared to the 383 bore of 4.25". Each has a stroke of 3.38". The 361 compression ratio is 9 to 1 and the 383 is 9.2 to 1. The same heads were used on both engines. All the piston and bearing specs are the same.

Ditto on above.

I would like to add if you need pistons those may be hard to come by. You can try EGGE Machine. They seem to have a lot of hard parts for out of date engines.

Also, a buddy of mine has a factory 361 HP long block for sale. He's on this forum too. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/1416748654.html

Well another friend of mine told me that if i was smart I would not do anything with the 361 and get a 383. Easier to find parts for and that i would be happier in the long run. So what should I be looking for?

I think your buddy is right. More cubic inches means more power. 383 parts are easier to find. I would build the 440 that is in the car already.

I am with Gregs70 on this one, if your building something put the cash in the 440 you have. Good luck!!

Won't cost any difference (except the afore mentioned pistons) to build the 361 Vs a 383. All the speed tricks will be the same. But as most people will tell you, there's no substitute for cubic inches. It will take someone that knows what they're looking at to tell the difference (externally) between a 361, a 383, or for that matter a 400.

I doubt you will feel a big difference in power between the 361 and 383 (all things being equal) but you will feel the difference with the 440. You already have the 361. Take a good hard look at it and see if you can't get by with a hone and re ring. Nothing wrong with that if you don't push the tolerance limits too far. This will keep you in the black and offer good performance. The money you save can go toward your 440 build.

I re-ringed a 68 302 for my Mustang and drove it 95,000 miles over ten years. That thing didn't use a drop of oil the entire time I owned it. But we won't talk about how many upper ball joints I went through!!

You could always stroke the 361 and make it a low block 413 lol

I would build a 383... pistons for a 361 are very hard to find... I had a 361 block that i tossed in favor for a 383... now i have 3 383 blocks chilling in my garage

Care to share your secret build combo for a good 383 ? If I am going to do this I may as well do a strong one.

Depends on what you consider a "good" 383. I can tell you how to build one that makes about 375rwhp, but that may not be good enough

I recently posted my 383 combo on another thread. Calculated 370 RWHP. 12.65 @ 107 in a 3700 lb B body. Not hard or expensive to do. I can give details if you want.

i would LOVE the details. That is plenty for what I am going to be doing. what about a 413 with closed chamber heads. This guy contacted me and says he has one complete and disassembled for 75.00. I know nothing about them. The 70 383 sounds like a better deal for 100.00 All it is short is the 4 bbl manifold and distributor

The old 413 is best left with the other guy. Not to say it's a bad engine, but piston choices are limited.

Here is what I remember doing to my 383. .030" over with of the shelf TRW forged flat top pistons .005" in the hole. I cut one valve relief for the intake but don't remember how deep - maybe .050". This gave me about .090" - .120" clearance. Composition head gasket with pocket ported 915 closed chamber heads with 2.08" / 1.74" valves. I did not CC this so I can only guess the compression to be at slightly over 10:1. The good thing is I still have the engine as I left it 20 yrs ago and can go back and reverse check everything. Mopar .528" mechanical cam installed straight up with a true roller chain. Stock crank (.030"/.030"), stock rods with good bolts and polished sides, balance rotating assembly, windage tray, 3/8" oil pickup with deep pan and a HV pump, 1-7/8" Hooker comp headers, Torker, Holley 3310 (750 CFM) with stock jets and a slightly heavier diaphragm spring (yellow I think). MSD box fired by the DC distributor with light springs. Stock heat range plugs. Total timing was at 36-38 deg all in by 2200 or so. Accessories included an A/C water pump and stock pulleys for everything. P/S was operational.

With the 3.55 sure grip in a 3700 lb as raced 68 RR, 8.5x26" slicks and open headers it went 13.20 @ 105-106 at Sears Point. Add a 4.88 Dana and the car went 12.65-12.75 @ 107 at Sac. Install a DP4B and a factory 700 CFM AVS from a 440 (with OEM jets) and best time was 12.98 @ 103 at Sac. Street tires were a joke so I never tried a pass with them. Suspension and trans were lacking. All I had was an old set of R/T leaf springs and a home made snubber and a 318 converter that stalled 1800 RPM. My launch was described as nothing really happening with the suspension. One buddy said the slicks were turning about 1/2 revolution. My MPH should have been good enough for 12.40's I think. Shift RPM was 6000 and trap RPM was around 6300 with the 4.88's. I tried to shift at 6500 (Holley/Torker setup) but got valve float so back to 6K. It was pulling hard to 6K and I think it had more in it.

Lots of fun doing insane burnouts though. I did a brake stand once starting in first and barely in the primaries then ending up in high gear at 4500 RPM at WOT (DP4B/AVS combo). Needless to say the rear 11" drums were full of hot spots and pretty much throwaways after that. The inside of the car was full of tire smoke and it was bellowing out the windows when I pulled up to the nearest intersection. A Cheech and Chong moment for sure.

Thank you for the info. I have a few things that I need to do before I can get started on this project but I am going to start collecting parts. : )