Engine compartment detail question

...Regarding a 69 Road Runner - specifically the steering column. Is the visible part of the shaft painted or bare metal, or either way depending on the day of the week or how loaded the assembly line worker was at the time?? Also the trunion joint (coupler) - bare metal or black??

Thanks.

What day, what plant, what recreational pharmaceuticals that day.

I say no paint. I've seen some remnants of black paint on the rag. No paint on the box.

OK, I'm gonna run with it. Thanks!

I usually go bare steel on the shaft, coupler, and box.... unless i see black paint on the rag then i paint that black.

This is just my two cents worth, but unless your building a 100 point show car, or have a true "surviver" car that's never been touched, I'd recommend that you paint, or powder coat ALL of your front suspension and steering parts, as leaving them bare metal will leave the parts open to rust and corrosion. Eastwood makes some very nice paint products such as "Chassis Black", "Aluma-blast" and many other similar products that will give your parts a factory look without leaving them without any protection from the elements. ;)

On my 66 Coronet, I had almost all of my front suspension and steering parts, along with my K-member powder coated back in 2001 or so and it still looks like new today and the parts are MUCH easier to keep clean! :yes: If I remember correctly, it ran me between $200.00 and $300.00 back then to do all of the powder coating.

Richard

This is just my two cents worth, but unless your building a 100 point show car, or have a true "surviver" car that's never been touched, I'd recommend that you paint, or powder coat ALL of your front suspension and steering parts, as leaving them bare metal will leave the parts open to rust and corrosion. Eastwood makes some very nice paint products such as "Chassis Black", "Aluma-blast" and many other similar products that will give your parts a factory look without leaving them without any protection from the elements. ;)

On my 66 Coronet, I had almost all of my front suspension and steering parts, along with my K-member powder coated back in 2001 or so and it still looks like new today and the parts are MUCH easier to keep clean! :yes: If I remember correctly, it ran me between $200.00 and $300.00 back then to do all of the powder coating.

Richard


Richard,

I ended up doing pretty much what you just said except I painted the bare steel parts with POR 15 Metal Mask (the stuff that looks like bare steel). So far the control arms, center link and the strut rods have the bare look. Basically everything that was really rusty told me it was never painted so I acted accordingly. I'm not going the full 100 point show route, but since I have to do something to protect from the elements I thought I'd get it close.

I also painted the end of the steering shaft and the coupler with the metal mask. I did my pedal cluster with support and parking brake assy too. I was happy with the way it came out.

POR makes some very nice products also and your parts came out looking REALLY nice, so it looks like you're all set. I went with the powder coating on my car because it's a very durable coating and it also looks great for a long time. Either way, as long as the bare metal parts are protected from the elements, that's all that matters. :yes::grin:

Richard

I like what you have done and think thats the way to go.
Ya know, in a couple hundred thousand years those survivor #matching bare metal pieces will likely have rusted away, and yours will still be around. :tongueflap:

What can I say...........an EXCELLENT job......Excellent. :yes:

That POR Metal Mask finish looks super! In the past I've sand blasted the parts to get rid of the rust, and then sprayed them with clear lacquer or clear plasticoat finish.

wow that looks really nice! After seeing your results, I might just have to pick up some of it.

Not to sound like a POR 15 commercial, but I really like it!

Here are the suspension parts. I just reduced the paint with the POR solvent, cleaned and treated the parts per instructions and sprayed with a $9.00 gun I bought at a swap meet. The pedals were my first attempt using the coating and I used a brush to apply it. The brush marks are kind of a pain to deal with so I recommend spraying.

Your parts look VERY nice! :yes: The only thing to find out now, is how well the por paint holds up when the car is back on the road terrorizing the Chevy's, Ford's and imports in your neighborhood! :D

Richard

Exactly!!

I don't build garage queens and I look at rock chips as tiny badges of honor (so long as they are small). I too am hoping for the best on the por stuff. I can say this, I dropped one of the control arms onto the concrete floor the other day and it didn't chip. I still have to press in the bushings, so I'll see what that does to the paint.

MeepMeep your stuff looks good!

Thanks, yours too!! I like how you did the trans finish - including the number. What is that?

Do you have a part number stamp for the heater box? You know, the yellow number in the rectangular border on the metal cover.

That is the rack number that is on the broadcast sheet, they pull the type of tranny that way. When I cleaned the tranny off I found all the markings you see, Ive been told I need to mess up the green a little it didnt look that good off the rack. The paint on the trans is Aervoe steel blast engine paint.

Gorgeous!!! The bolts look like they are black oxide. Eastwood has a plating kit. Anyone have any experience with it?

That is the rack number that is on the broadcast sheet, they pull the type of tranny that way. When I cleaned the tranny off I found all the markings you see, Ive been told I need to mess up the green a little it didnt look that good off the rack. The paint on the trans is Aervoe steel blast engine paint.

That looks like it is ready to be installed from under the car just as it was done from the factory. Certainly the easiest, fastest way provided you have two guys to do it, one on each side as it goes up into the engine compartment. That is the way I did it and the guy helping me did not have a clue about things mechanical.

From the bottom is the best - it is a one man job (if you have a lift) to get a Hemi in a B or E body... wanna guess how I know that ? lol

Gorgeous!!! The bolts look like they are black oxide. Eastwood has a plating kit. Anyone have any experience with it?

It SUUUUUUUCKS!

It's not a plating kit, more like a chemical dip and clear coat... save your money!

That looks like it is ready to be installed from under the car just as it was done from the factory. Certainly the easiest, fastest way provided you have two guys to do it, one on each side as it goes up into the engine compartment. That is the way I did it and the guy helping me did not have a clue about things mechanical.

Does that look like the same old grease ball you saw at the 83rd ave show in the silver runner 696Pack ?LOL

Does that look like the same old grease ball you saw at the 83rd ave show in the silver runner 696Pack ?LOL

No, it doesn't it looks great. But I also thought the car was cool as I saw it that first time. You seldom get a chance to see an old original untouched example like you had there these days. But it was time to restore it as it was pretty tired. Had it been better cared for before you got it, it would have been a great survivor ( don't tell the Bloomington Gold people I said that:rolling:) to leave as is.

I am sure you have discovered as many of us have that it is a hugh undertaking and a ton of work to do what you are doing. Usually fun the first time but most don't want to do it again. It is a lot more fun driving them than working on them for me. Hope you get it done soon so you can enjoy it.

I just got my transmission taken care of in my 66 Hemi car and will be taking it down to Speedworld some Friday night when it is cool to see how it does. If you are interested in seeing it let me know. I had it down there this spring but could not get it into 2nd gear under load. After trying different methods, I relaxed my hand pressure on the shift and mistakenly shifted from 1st to
4th and it still ran a 14.05 @ 105 mph and that was on drag radials not slicks. It pulls HARD. I can't wait to see how it does but don't want to come down there in the blistering heat.

From the bottom is the best - it is a one man job (if you have a lift) to get a Hemi in a B or E body... wanna guess how I know that ? lol


You must be a better man than me then.:sad:

I have a 4 post lift and an engine hoist. I had to cut out part of the drip pan lips on the ramps for the engine to clear it and it was still tight. I don't think I could have wormed it up through there by myself, just too tight and too much watch at the same time. I know the factory used two guys. Here is a link of an original factory picture showing then getting ready to install a leaning tower of power in a 66 Coronet.

BTW, who can tell me what that large sheet is hanging from the bumper? No prize, you just get to show us how mopar intelligent you are. LOL.

http://www.mmcdetroit.com/Photographs/039.html

You must be a better man than me then.:sad:

I have a 4 post lift and an engine hoist. I had to cut out part of the drip pan lips on the ramps for the engine to clear it and it was still tight. I don't think I could have wormed it up through there by myself, just too tight and too much watch at the same time. I know the factory used two guys. Here is a link of an original factory picture showing then getting ready to install a leaning tower of power in a 66 Coronet.

BTW, who can tell me what that large sheet is hanging from the bumper? No prize, you just get to show us how mopar intelligent you are. LOL.

http://www.mmcdetroit.com/Photographs/039.html

Looks like a component to car check list?

It SUUUUUUUCKS!

It's not a plating kit, more like a chemical dip and clear coat... save your money!

What about the gold cadium paint kit? If I spelled that right.

It SUUUUUUUCKS!

It's not a plating kit, more like a chemical dip and clear coat... save your money!

It seems too good to be true, and I guess it is. Thanks for the tip.

You must be a better man than me then.:sad:

I have a 4 post lift and an engine hoist. I had to cut out part of the drip pan lips on the ramps for the engine to clear it and it was still tight. I don't think I could have wormed it up through there by myself, just too tight and too much watch at the same time. I know the factory used two guys. Here is a link of an original factory picture showing then getting ready to install a leaning tower of power in a 66 Coronet.

BTW, who can tell me what that large sheet is hanging from the bumper? No prize, you just get to show us how mopar intelligent you are. LOL.

http://www.mmcdetroit.com/Photographs/039.html

No worries... I have dropped / installed 23 engines so far - I made a custom K member / transmission stand to support the front suspension with casters and use the lift... slow and easy - about 10 minutes to get the K member bolted up and off the stand - do it enough and you get better just like anything else... biggest problem is a Hemi... pull the valve covers and I usually drop the steering column and pull it into the car's cockpit for added clearance.... no issues ever. :yes:

No worries... I have dropped / installed 23 engines so far - I made a custom K member / transmission stand to support the front suspension with casters and use the lift... slow and easy - about 10 minutes to get the K member bolted up and off the stand - do it enough and you get better just like anything else... biggest problem is a Hemi... pull the valve covers and I usually drop the steering column and pull it into the car's cockpit for added clearance.... no issues ever. :yes:


Well, Min is a Hemi and I did not it with the vavlve covers on and the steering column in place. Maybe that is why I needed help.

Looks like a component to car check list?

Looking at it through a magnifying glass I believe the codes are the codes on the B/S that are mostly unknown for things like engine assemblies, rear ends, steering column assemblies, etc. What I believe you previously referred to as "rack" numbers. The only place I have ever seen any of these numbers recorded is in GGs white books and he only has a select few. I don't know where he got them as they are not in any parts books as they were for complete assemblies for thing you could not order that way through parts.

If you look at the picture carefully you will se that there is another one attached to the bottom of the K member and I believe the one attached to the car has a B/S taped to the bottom of it.

Richard,

I ended up doing pretty much what you just said except I painted the bare steel parts with POR 15 Metal Mask (the stuff that looks like bare steel). So far the control arms, center link and the strut rods have the bare look. Basically everything that was really rusty told me it was never painted so I acted accordingly. I'm not going the full 100 point show route, but since I have to do something to protect from the elements I thought I'd get it close.

I also painted the end of the steering shaft and the coupler with the metal mask. I did my pedal cluster with support and parking brake assy too. I was happy with the way it came out.

nice work did you epoxy prime before the por 15 metal mask?
Thanks
Frank

nice work did you epoxy prime before the por 15 metal mask?
Thanks
Frank

Thanks.

No, I just prepped the bare metal parts like it says. Use the acid etch stuff then rinse off, dry and paint. Like I said, we'll see.

Just found this thread, looking for some resto pics :read2:

That Metal Mask looks just what I'm looking for, Meep Meep, for my Bendix calipers.

I'm getting them sleeved cos the bores are shagged :icon_rolleyes:
The people doing the work can zinc plate them silver or gold (or yellow passivate?) or powder coat them most colours. Trouble is, none of those options are close enough to the original cast iron colour, and as had been said here, they need some sort of protection or they'll be back to rusty brown in no time.

So after seeing your pics, I've gone and ordered a tin of the Metal Mask & a bottle of the Metal Ready prep.
If I can get anything like the finish you got on your pedal assembly and the suspension parts I'll be over the moon :icon_mrgreen:

I'm glad you found this thread too uk-maxie. That is one of my next steps as well. This one should go "stickey" in the resto forum.

Just found this thread, looking for some resto pics :read2:

That Metal Mask looks just what I'm looking for, Meep Meep, for my Bendix calipers.

I'm getting them sleeved cos the bores are shagged :icon_rolleyes:
The people doing the work can zinc plate them silver or gold (or yellow passivate?) or powder coat them most colours. Trouble is, none of those options are close enough to the original cast iron colour, and as had been said here, they need some sort of protection or they'll be back to rusty brown in no time.

So after seeing your pics, I've gone and ordered a tin of the Metal Mask & a bottle of the Metal Ready prep.
If I can get anything like the finish you got on your pedal assembly and the suspension parts I'll be over the moon :icon_mrgreen:


I recommend reducing a tad with the POR reducer and spraying as opposed to brushing. The paint has a lot of metal in it so frequent agitation is required while you spray. I found that putting on the final coat/s a bit on the dry side gives a more even finish. If you go on too wet the metallic can get blotchy.