Family Tradition

Well Gentlemen,

After a few fruitless trips, trying to find my dream car, Victory is Mine!!! I picked up this 1969 Roadrunner in B.F.E. Minnesota over the weekend.

The car is not no rust free new mexico barn find, but actually a Wisconsin car, so needless to say there is some rot in the trunk area..Moving forward from there, it gets pretty clean. It needs the back 18" of the rails and shackle mounts (they are still there but could be smashed in pretty easily by a hammer), trunk pan/extentions, quarters, and a new rear crossmember are needed.

The dash is pretty much flawless (could wash up and show it) beside a couple cracks in the steering wheel. As far as the engine, they guy (total chevy nut) had it advertised as an non-original early 70's 383. When I got there, it sure didn't look like a 383 (too big). Scrapped and sanded of the pad/block and figured out it was a 1968 440. I'm not going all numbers crazy with the car so the more cubes the better.


After decoding the VIN/fender tag/broadcast sheet, I found out it is:
383 HP 4 barrel 335 horse
727 torqueflite
Factory B5 Blue with black hood dress
Black interior/ factory buckets with console
742 case 8 3/4" rear end sure grip 3.23 gears
Built Jan 9th, 1969 ...Lynch Rd MI
Vinyl Top car

With my dad having a 69 Roadrunner, this model of car is what definitly got me into mopars. After selling his years ago to do the "family guy" thing, I've watched his penstar ambition slump no almost nothing with time, age, responsibility. So, in an effort to revive the mopar roots, I not only bought the car because it is what I always wanted, but also to get my dad involved and return the favor he gave to me years ago.

So gent's, got to get to work....see you around and i'll keep the you all up to date with pic's and info as the restoration begins.

Prop

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr3.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr4.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr5.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr6.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr7.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr8.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner/rr9.jpg

Congrats, Prop - and good luck with it. B-5 is probably my favorite Mopar color.

Congrats Will!!!, looks to be a little more solid then the one you passed on in the D.:rolling: Really nice!!.:grin:

great find , looks like a nice project

great find good luck with the resto

sweet

:yes:

Thanks for the kind words boys.....Yes Matt, a heck of a lot more solid. Plus an engine/tranny, all the interior, and pretty much everything else is there. Only 1 grand more!

Gotta go gent's...Time to dismantel!!

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/2912511571_fc8b304854.jpg

Nice! how much did you get it for and does it run?

Wow great find! That looks like an awesome car to build!

Nice! how much did you get it for and does it run?


Ended up paying $3500 for the car...She fires right over. Not for long though....Engine will be out by this weekend. The thing is loud as heck!!!Straight pipes into glass packs some yahoo put on there. For the brief moment I had it running in my driveway, my buddy a couple blocks away could here her running Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe......

Wow great find! That looks like an awesome car to build!


Thanks Aaron...I thought so too.

Good Find, best of luck on your resto.

Ended up paying $3500 for the car...She fires right over. Not for long though....Engine will be out by this weekend. The thing is loud as heck!!!Straight pipes into glass packs some yahoo put on there. For the brief moment I had it running in my driveway, my buddy a couple blocks away could here her running Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe..Po-Tae-Toe......

You say Po-Tae-Toe, I say Po-Tah-Toe.:grin:

you stole that car

you stole that car

Was thinking the same thing.

that is a nice car for what you paid.heck of a deal.can't wait to see pics as you go and when it is done.

Congrats, Prop! Looks like a good project car!

Tom-mat-toe tom-mat-toe...

Holy Crap Prop! you totally stole that car!!! :tongueflap: The guy have any more of 'em??? :rolling: Figures a chebby guy wouldn't know what he's got!!!

I've heard that there is a way to check the diff. between a 383 and a 440 is that the 440 has a flat pad on the drivers side just behind the water pump?? anybody hear of this???

Either way, Congrats Prop! and get to work!!!! :grin:

Nice deal on a nice Mopar!

Tom-mat-toe tom-mat-toe...

Holy Crap Prop! you totally stole that car!!! :tongueflap: The guy have any more of 'em??? :rolling: Figures a chebby guy wouldn't know what he's got!!!

I've heard that there is a way to check the diff. between a 383 and a 440 is that the 440 has a flat pad on the drivers side just behind the water pump?? anybody hear of this???

Either way, Congrats Prop! and get to work!!!! :grin:

Thanks MarPar. You are absoulutly right, flat pad on the RB blocks vs. angled sides of a B. Unfortunatly he does not have any more mopars. He really was pretty ignorant about mopars, but still a real stand up guy. He refered to the torsion bars as spring shafts...lol..Totally honest with me about everything though.

Car looked pretty lonely crammed in a shop full of chevelles. Soon as I walked in the door I heard the car say "get me the hell out of here!", so obviously I had to buy it then. :grin:

Got a couple grand worth of sheetmetal from AMD today, so this weekend should be pretty productive. Heading down to the big car show/swap meet in Jefferson tomorrow, hopefully to find a decent trunklid---way too much mud/rot in the old one...

Thanks again for all the kind comments guys.

Thanks MarPar. You are absoulutly right, flat pad on the RB blocks vs. angled sides of a B. Unfortunatly he does not have any more mopars. He really was pretty ignorant about mopars, but still a real stand up guy. He refered to the torsion bars as spring shafts...lol..Totally honest with me about everything though.

Car looked pretty lonely crammed in a shop full of chevelles. Soon as I walked in the door I heard the car say "get me the hell out of here!", so obviously I had to buy it then. :grin:

Got a couple grand worth of sheetmetal from AMD today, so this weekend should be pretty productive. Heading down to the big car show/swap meet in Jefferson tomorrow, hopefully to find a decent trunklid---way too much mud/rot in the old one...

Thanks again for all the kind comments guys.


Obviously... Anybody in their right mind would have to save her... :grin:

Chevelles, huh? that's about the only non-MoPar i'd even consider. Well, aside from a mid-sixties Ferrari GTO or Ferrari SWB 275!

But I digress...spring shafts!!!! :rolling::rolling:

Anyway good luck on your build and hunt...keep us all posted!!!

Well Guys,

After spending hours wading through the muck at the swap meet for a day and coming home with a Roadrunner horn and windshield clips (better than nothing i guess), It was time to get to work today.

Kicked off the day with pulling off the brakes, the parking brake cables, the shocks, the shackles, the leaf springs, then the entire rear end. Pulled off the mudded up trunk lid, tail lights, and then the tail light housings.

Next it was time blance out the car from front to back and left to right so i can properly make measurements from the bottom of the car to the ground. I used a digital laser level in the jams for the front to back and across the hump for side to side.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr3.jpg

I had to use rubber shims between the jack stand and the car in several places to tweak the balance to 0.0 degrees.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr4.jpg

Next it was time to weld up a support jig for the rear end seeing I am replacing most of the metal from the jams back. This is by no means a primary support for the rear of the car, but gives added support for when the integrity of the trunk pan/extension, and frame rails are removed. I used 1"
10 Ga. C/S square tubing. I went with the main supports arms coming down from the gussets so I would have Vertical and Horizontal structual support for the down legs, and would not have to worry about the main horizontal beam taking a bow. I attached the support legs to a piece of 16 ga. steel then used a punch in sporatic areas to spot weld it to the top of the quarters. I also cranked up my AMPS a bit to burn in a few stringer welds. Plus a little added bonus, when i am finshed with the rear of the car and no longer need the jig, it will double as a nice sturdy stand to hang panels/parts for primer work, and it only cost me $31 bucks for the material.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr1.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr2.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr2a.jpg

After pulling out the rear seat, I was pretty happy of the floor underneath. another area that is not too bad is the rear rails. The one in the pic is the better of the two, but both need the shackle rails replaced, so it is all coming out and getting replaced

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr5.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr6.jpg

As you can see below, my rear crossmember and filler panel have seen their better days. The left tail light bucket is dead as well. They are about to go into retirement.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr7.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr8.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr9.jpg

As far a measurement and documentation, obviously that is the key factor in having a job turn out. I took an 6 foot laser level to the garage floor to insure it was level (which it was by +/- .0032), and began using a plumb bob at every reference point possible. I measured at the centers to get my accurate readings and marked them on the floor with a magic marker. I also ended up with a few pages of rough draft drawings for reference as well, which i will put into AutoCAD to help pin point any areas out of wack or areas needing more measurments/review.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr10.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rr11.jpg

So, busy day at the home front, but goes to show how much a guy can get done when the old lady's gone, have a couple ice cold brews, and good tunes are playing on the Juke Box. I'll have pretty much all of my fresh sheetmetal in tomorrow from AMD, so as soon as I can get a bit of time, the battle will continue...Have a good one fella's

are you really ready to go on the Ramen Noodle diet again ? LOL

are you really ready to go on the Ramen Noodle diet again ? LOL

:rolling: LOL, No doubt huh....I hoping this time I can upgrade to Oscar Meyer Snack Packs with an occasional Nutty Bar.....

Nice work Prop, your not wasting any time. Are you pushing to have it finished by the Nationals in a few months.
I utilized my builders laser quite a bit for the "JUNKYARD DOG", reference marks and measurements galore!.

Thanks Matt,
I'm thinking the Nationals would probably turn into a pipe dream. As far as completion, that is directly porportional to Congress (the wife) releasing funds for the bird and how long I can get away with hiding out in the garage. Going to hit her hard through the warm months. I've decided to change out the upper cowl. The one on there is in pretty good shape besides a bit of mud I found near the center so i will probably be picking your brain on that soon enough if you dont mind

Take care.........Prop

wow your getting right on it , awesome way to go

Thanks Stuart..Hopefully I can keep the momentum rolling..

Finally got some more time to work on the bird today. Started off by sicking the ingersoll die grinder with a 1.5'' wire brush on all the spot welds in the trunk.

After a tediuos adventure of drilling out 60-70 spot welds and with the help of a Milwaukee saws-all, the rusty old trunk is history.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rrst3.jpg

I again double verified the car was still sitting level and the original metal was box/square

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rrst1.jpg

After the trunk was out, I noticed the passenger side inner wheelhouse was not as stable as thought. Instead of a hand fabed patch, I have a inner wheelhouse I'll section out to fix this area properly.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rrst2.jpg

I still plan on hand fabricating a patch for the inner on the driver side. Obviously the custom outer wheelhouses on both sides will be removed/replaced.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rrst4.jpg

The shackle mounts are not too bad but are pretty degraded on both sides at the mount up to the rear crossmember and willl be replaced along with the rear frame rails

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/rrst5.jpg

So, with a level car, all my measurements, drawings, photo's, and other references in place, the frame rails, shackle mounts, and trunk braces will be on the way out the door as soon as I get a few more parts in early next week.

Have a good one

Great find! And it looks like if fell into the right hands too!:sSig_goodluck:

Great find! And it looks like if fell into the right hands too!:sSig_goodluck:


Thanks kid, appreciate it..

dude you are kicking ass

:os_dancing2:

Hey Prop, how are the rear window corners on it?.

Not too bad Matt. The driver side has about an dime size hole, but the passenger side is good. I got a smokin deal on a full set of AMD quarters off craigslist, so both sides will be new anyway. Spent a couple hours today fabing up and welding in a patch for the drivers side inner wheel house. I'll toss up some pic's later....3:25AM, probably should hit the sack..:mornincoffee:

:popcorn::grin:

The rate your going at it i should be able to see it at Iola in july?Feature this year is the Sensational 60s.:grin:

Throwing on a few picks of the patch installed on the drivers side inner wheelhouse. I used what I could as far as a template from the old chunk I cut out. I also had to partially template with what was left of the passenger side for the notch that dips down a couple inches before joining up with the outer wheelhouse.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re3.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re4.jpg

After a couple hundred very small tack welds, finally the weld across was complete and ready to be ground down.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re5.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re6.jpg

While messing around with the inner wheelhouse I noticed a couple small holes at the corner of the driver side torque box/rear dutchman support. After grinding down on them they obviously got a bunch larger. I ended up fabricating a couple small patches, tacking and welding them in and gringing them together as a single patch.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re7.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re8.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re9.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/re10.jpg

Iola...........I wish. I'm sure i'll be there Wannadrag, but I don't think i'll be driving a 69' roadrunner there. Hopefully my rear frame rail sections come in tomorrow along with the shackle mounts. that should give me plenty to do moving into next week.

Take care all-prop

SWEET!!, Nice work Will.

:yes:SWEET!!, Nice work Will.:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:

Thanks fella's........Obviously i'm no metal wizard, but just giving it my best shot to make her look good again.

What do you have for a welder?.

Thanks fella's........Obviously i'm no metal wizard, but just giving it my best shot to make her look good again.

I much prefer your aproach , I like it when people try to retain as much of the original metal as possible

What do you have for a welder?.

Matt, running a Miller Millermatic 140 MIG welder....Pretty easy unit with good weld qualities. The only thing I don't like is the generic auto setting feature. Tried it a couple times and it doesn't work very well at all. Also, Miller put a metal thickness template along with your amp settings on the dial. One thing I found out is that there Guage settings are a bit cool for the thickness stated, but I always practice before throwing arc on anything and just dial in my Amps and wire speed manually. What unit you running Matt?

Stuart.. It sure is a lot easier for alignment in a major rebuild when a guy fixes the old with a patch or two. Plus, after recieving some more parts from the renound AMD, I'm finding out that old mother mopar had much better metal/stamps. And there is the whole cost savings as well.

AMD has it's place and is saving alot of cars , but think alot of people get chop/cut happy when they could save alot more original metal . I know that you cant save every cars and every part of a car . Its just refreshing seeing you save more then most do .

Hey thanks Stuart!

Same machine you have 140 w/easy set. I have found the same thing with the whole easy set vs> manual and I too prefer the manual settings.:grin::yes:
What gauge wire are you using?, I was using .024 for a while, thinking that would be better for the sheet metal we are working with, until a buddy told me he uses .030, so I switched and what do you know, it's better!!:tongueflap:

Really? Wow... i'm running the .024 hobart..never used .030 out on sheet metal. Is it easier to create a more broad puddle or a bit easier to dial in the amp setting (not such a fine line)? Right now I got the Amps set to #4 on the dial with a 40 wire speed....
Pretty easy to remember 4-40 setting for some odd reason :edgy:

Really? Wow... i'm running the .024 hobart..never used .030 out on sheet metal. Is it easier to create a more broad puddle or a bit easier to dial in the amp setting (not such a fine line)? Right now I got the Amps set to #4 on the dial with a 40 wire speed....
Pretty easy to remember 4-40 setting for some odd reason :edgy:

I'm noticing flatter welds and better penetration(I just said penetration on the internet:grin:), could be I'm getting better, but I did notice a difference and it became easier with the .030 wire. I don't remember what my machine is set at right now:mornincoffee:, I'll check it and post a little later. Your using 75/25 gas mix?.

I've been checking up on this thread incognito for the past week, and i gotta say...Damn Prop, you gots skills!! and you're a glutton for punishment!! :rolling: great work man, keep it up you'll be tire fryin' before you know it!!! Ahhh, nuttin' like the smell of goodyears in the mornin'!! :car flipper:

I've been checking up on this thread incognito for the past week, and i gotta say...Damn Prop, you gots skills!! and you're a glutton for punishment!! :rolling: great work man, keep it up you'll be tire fryin' before you know it!!! Ahhh, nuttin' like the smell of goodyears in the mornin'!! :car flipper:


Holy Smokes!!! The Black Sheep returns!! How was your week in the gallows there hero? :black_eye: Way to Go....LOL! Thanks for the momentary pic before being hauled off by the berries and cherries..Glad to have ya back

Glutton for punishment.....probably. I appreciate the compliment, but by no means would I consider my work to be skills, maybe more like a monkey aimlessly waltzing around on a pogo stick :grin: Gonna try to keep this momentum going as long as I can. Hopefully we're not visiting this thread in 5 years, reading about my weekend long project of changing out the sunvisors.

Anyway, good to have ya back "Black Sheep" :ban:



Matt: Running the 75/25 80# as well. I'm gonna be starting the frame rail removal/installation tonight hopefully, so I'm changing out to .030 wire anyway. Gonna give it a whirl on the passenger side wheelhouse. Huhhha...huh...huh, you said penetration :beavisnbutthead:

We got parts!!! Had my trunk show up today from Sonic motors over in Holly, MI. Awesome shape and they did one heck of a packing job. The basement is starting to pile up as well......

Got some work done on "skeletor" today. Ripped out the trunk brace, shock mount brace and the rear frame rails w/shackle mounts. I was really suprised how goobered the welds were on the bottom of the shock mount brace. looked like a weld made of smeared peanut butter. I had to cut next to the welded areas to remove and will have to re-fab the ends when I install.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr3.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr4.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr5.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr6.jpg

I think that is the norm for the welds on the shock mount crossmember, every one that I have seen has been installed the same way.
How did you find that trunk lid, it looks really nice. It is always shocking to see such clean body parts from the mid west. Must be one of those outfits that make a few runs down south or west several times a year buying up cars and parts.
Great shot of the basement, the only thing missing is the xmas tree!!.
I all of the sudden feel the need to put a hat on and get a cup of coffee.

I've been checking up on this thread incognito for the past week, and i gotta say...Damn Prop, you gots skills!! and you're a glutton for punishment!! :rolling: great work man, keep it up you'll be tire fryin' before you know it!!! Ahhh, nuttin' like the smell of goodyears in the mornin'!! :car flipper:

X2

That's a lot of work. I only wish I had that kind of skill.

I think it's more of just being willing to work and able to use a tape measure 72 Charger.
Obviously being able to weld is pretty much a must as well. It's actually looks a lot more intimidating than it really is. I think most guys that carry a bit of fabrication experience, have the ambition, and are apt for willing to learn, can do it. I know one thing that makes me more comfortable when I'm sawing or drilling something out or installing/welding something in, is this site and all the great folks with a wealth of knowledge to help me out if need be.

Great shot of the basement, the only thing missing is the xmas tree!!.
I all of the sudden feel the need to put a hat on and get a cup of coffee.

That's right Matt, everyday is Christamas here on Christmas island! Grab the coffee :lotsocoffee:, time to get to work!!
Found the trunk online by using a craigslist search engine which searches all areas in a mileage radius that you put in. "Search tempest"

Thanks Prop, ya the black sheep is finally back

back to my usu. tricks! LOL :suning:

Thanks Prop, ya the black sheep is finally back

back to my usu. tricks! LOL :suning:

:devil1::weg::weg::devil1: There's always got to be one in the bunch!

I think it's more of just being willing to work and able to use a tape measure 72 Charger.
Obviously being able to weld is pretty much a must as well. It's actually looks a lot more intimidating than it really is. I think most guys that carry a bit of fabrication experience, have the ambition, and are apt for willing to learn, can do it. I know one thing that makes me more comfortable when I'm sawing or drilling something out or installing/welding something in, is this site and all the great folks with a wealth of knowledge to help me out if need be.

I'm looking to get a welder this fall and finally learn how to weld. But it will be a while before I feel comfortable touching my Mopars with the welder. Maybe I'll have to get an old Ford (like my first car) to work on, so it won't matter if I mess it up.

I'm glad that you and others on here are willing to take the time to put your photos and step-by-step restoration tips on the forum. I'm already learning a lot without even having to tear a car down. Hopefully that will translate into less mistakes when I do.

LOL....Old Ford donor.. Be sure and get a MIG welder, not a flux core for automotive sheet metal work! Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart all make pretty good home use/light end welders for a pretty decent price.

No problem on posting this stuff. That's what this site is all about. Not only is it an archive for me to reference down the road, chit chat with friends and make new ones, but also helps guys out knowing the anatomy of the cars, along with what it takes to get the job done.

Glad I could help-Prop

LOL....Old Ford donor.. Be sure and get a MIG welder, not a flux core for automotive sheet metal work! Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart all make pretty good home use/light end welders for a pretty decent price.


Looking at a Hobart MIG welder, based on price and info from others on this site. Got my wife saving her pennies for my Christmas present to me.

Looking at a Hobart MIG welder, based on price and info from others on this site. Got my wife saving her pennies for my Christmas present to me.

Hey..Hey....good deal...:Santa2:

Well, after getting a few hours to work on the roadrunner, I finally got a chance to weld in the new rear frame rails. I used all the previously marked areas on the floor along with the drawings to get everything in place. I also used 3/4" oak dowels with the known old measurments to jig them in place before welding. Everything went into place fairly easy and most measurements after install pretty much came in exact. The worst offset i have is about 1/32" which can be manipulated when I install the crossmember and the trunk pan.

I started to jig up the right shackle mount when I noticed that the housing in the mount that the shackle bolt/bushings go through is set back a 1/2" further than the factory measurement. Anyone have any ideas if this will be an issue if that housing sits 1/2" further back than factory? Will the shackles still bolt in and fit properly? :confused:

The rest of the shackle mount ligns up pretty good everywhere else. If I do move the whole mount 1/2" forward to accomodate that offset, the rear of the mount will not mate up flush with the rear crossmember, so..............
kinda at a stand still I guess

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fr1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fr2.jpg

:os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing 2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_danci ng2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dan cing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_d ancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os _dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2:: os_dancing2::os_dancing2::os_dancing2::banana::ban ana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banan a:


I really need one of those little drool smiles , but i cant find it

For the Love of God man!

It's the smiley Blitzkrieg!

:bunny: <----------Why do we have this pathetic rabbit as an option? look at it, just plain old dumb! I say we reject this fother mucker!:chain saw:

Looking good Prop! You really seem to have taken good care to keep the car straight while doing this. I'm just learning to weld. I went to a local steel supply and asked them to cut me some "weld coupons". 2x6 inch strips of 18, 20 and 22 gauge [the common stuff you will see in cars]. Used a punch at work to put a dozen 3/8 holes in some for plug practice. Done lap and butt welds. Practice, practice, practice baby! Are you using a "weld thru" primer on this?

Sure am Scott. Just going with the SEM in a can from the local paint supply store down the road. You are deffinitly taking the right approach on getting to know welding and your welder.

I have the SEM copperweld. Unfortunately, when I used it, my welds bounced off it like water on a hot griddle! Any tips?

I've heard a couple people say that about that stuff now. I use the zinc enriched formula and not the copper and really never had any problems. i take it there was a lot of popping, crackeling noises going on when you were trying to weld on it? what guage of base metal---wire speed---amps---where you running? I take it you were running a MIG welder?

18 base, 20 on top for the plug, .023 wire, gas, cheap welder set at 2 out of 4, wire at 6 out of 10.

How many PSI were you running on your gas scott? Also what did you have the ground attached to? Both?

cheap welder, psi unknown. The ground was at the base metal, 18 ga, not both.

Scott,
As a generic baseline for that guage of metal, I would run between 20-25 PSI out of a 75/25 mix tank. As far as your ground, if you are grounded to the 18ga on the bottom side, you need to start your arc on the 18ga and pull your puddle onto the 20ga. If you have a pretty hefty layer of the copper primer in between and not a real tight mate between the two, you might not enough ground to the 20ga to stike a productive arc.
Once a portion of a decent tac is made between the two, you should be good to go for starting on one side or the other.

If you are piloting out on the 18ga already, a couple things I would play around with is, first, the amps- If it's just cracking and popping, try turning up your amps a little at a time. Second, the wire speed. Don't force feed the puddle.

Its kind of tough to really dig deep not knowing the exact amps and wire speed (just selection numbers), but hopefully some of this may help. Who knows, could be a bunk can of primer as well

Looking GREAT ! Prop.

Hey prop, looking good brother!. I'm suprised to hear your having an issue with your parts. I don't know if the 1/2" will create any problems or not, but I would get on the horn on Monday with AMD and talk to them about it. If there is that big of a discrepincy, they need to know about it and tell you how to deal with it. I will assume that your rails aren't a 1/2" long, where did they come from?. I am making that assumption based on the fact that I know you would not have welded them in if they were sticking out a 1/2" past your measurements. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if you had some how rigged one of those invisible fence systems to work with all your original measurements and when you are installing your new parts your just getting a shock until it's positioned properly!:rolling::rolling:.
Hey would you mind if I traded some parts to Bens69satellite for some Grey Poop-on in your thread???:grin:

I'll have to try that zinc formula weld through, because I am not so impressed with the copperweld, I just thought it was the nature of the beast, the way it affects the weld. It will be interesting to try them both and see if there is a diff.

I reference to your "popping" crank up your gas flow too. The smoke coming off the primer is a contaminant and screws up your "atmosphere" that your must have on your "puddle". I always wondered how these weldable primers are suppose to work. I like having you for my guinea pig :)

Hey prop, looking good brother!. I'm suprised to hear your having an issue with your parts. I don't know if the 1/2" will create any problems or not, but I would get on the horn on Monday with AMD and talk to them about it. If there is that big of a discrepincy, they need to know about it and tell you how to deal with it. I will assume that your rails aren't a 1/2" long, where did they come from?. I am making that assumption based on the fact that I know you would not have welded them in if they were sticking out a 1/2" past your measurements. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if you had some how rigged one of those invisible fence systems to work with all your original measurements and when you are installing your new parts your just getting a shock until it's positioned properly!:rolling::rolling:.
Hey would you mind if I traded some parts to Bens69satellite for some Grey Poop-on in your thread???:grin:

:rolling:LOL Matt, hey, trade away...Maybe we should start a "culinary to automotive barter system thread?" Pork Chops for seat covers, or Herring for antenna's...


I got the 50 1/2" rear frame rail replacements from AutoBody Specialties. Don't know the MFG., but I know they were made here in the states. They are pretty close to the factory set, but by no means the same. There had to be a little "tweaking" to make them line up up/down, and left/right. The holes on the bottom side of the rails on the new vs. the old do not line up, so that through a bunch of my measurements out the window. :edgy: I was still able to have pretty good line up for total legnth and the rear height. The top of the rail outer lips are not the same, and I will have to weld in tabs for the shock crossmember to mount to. The beginning one inch of the new rails are crimped/flanged in, so there is some leeway fore and aft.

Invisible fences...LOL. I could almost see myself doing that. "Why the hell are you wearing a dog collar?" With Plumb bob's and Oak dowels, i'm starting to feel a bit Amish! Just call me "Jebadiah" from here on out:tiphat:

I wil definitly be giving AMD a call on this tomorrow. Wonder if this is a stamping flaw? I can't really imagine someone over at AMD made an executive decision Engineering wise to move the mount housing area back 1/2" because the Chrysler Egineering Department had it all wrong 40 some years ago. I'm sure this question has risen up before to AMD seeing this area is definitly a more popular cancer area.

By the way, your dad's Challenger looks real sharp...ahhhh someday. I'll have to follow along once you put the wheels in motion on your Challenger.

Take care

Looking GREAT ! Prop.

Thanks 69'

you've really got alot done on that car,prop.i hope when i start on mine i won't have to do as much that you're doing,but i doubt that(iowa car:grin:) but it,s good to know that i can pick your brain if i need to.just remember not to spend all your time hiding in the garage. the better half might get jealous:rolling::rolling:.

you've really got alot done on that car,prop.i hope when i start on mine i won't have to do as much that you're doing,but i doubt that(iowa car:grin:) but it,s good to know that i can pick your brain if i need to.just remember not to spend all your time hiding in the garage. the better half might get jealous:rolling::rolling:.



By the time Prop gets done..... the pickings could be slim. :grin::rolling::rolling:

You paid WHAT ???????????? :hatwave::th_krazy:

Thanks for the kind words fella's. roadrunnerman, i'm sure the project looks pretty intimidating and would need a magician to put back together, but honestly I feel pretty comfortable with all the great guys and resources on here that I already use. The sad truth of these northern cars that you, myself ,and a bunch others on here face is the years of weather and road salt have really taken a toll over the years.

I think these cars deserve a second chance just like a Texas Barn Find or a Southwest Survivor. It's just we have to invest our time, skills, and pocket books a bit more diligently than the rest. I'm proud I have a 41 year old muscle car from Wisconsin in my garage just as you with your Iowa car. Hell, I think it earns them a bit more respect being able to stick around this long while a good majority of the rest have been crushed years ago.

When you take the leap and dig into your project, feel free to ask away. I will be more than willing to share any past experiences with you as well as the other great guys around here resurrecting there cars as well.

As far as the wife, I'm a pretty lucky guy considering I really don't catch much flak for hanging in the garage with my new Pal. I did get a bit of questioning when I sold a perfectly fine Harley to fund a car hauled back on a trailer. I think it refreshed her when i pointed at the Coronet and let her know that it was in worse shape than the roadrunner when it first wheeled in the garage.


I didn't get much done as far as work on the roadrunner today. Spent a good chunk of the day talkin cars with my mom...Yeah, she's cool like that. She's been a big inspiration and a huge part in my past mopars as well. Happy Mother's day mom! I did get a chance to media blast my shock mount crossmember. Started with a greasy, rusty, dirty old mount and 5 minutes later I ended up with a "almost new" piece to install. Media Blasters are worth their weight in gold

Before:

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/sm1.jpg

After:

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/sm2.jpg

wow!! that's like a night -n-day difference on that crossmember.yeah,i know what you mean with the wife.I've been married to wife#3 for 5 yrs(july) and i've gotten more things done on my car(s) than i have with my other wives. I think this one is a keeper:yes::yes:.will be looking for more pics as you go along.

wow!! that's like a night -n-day difference on that crossmember.yeah,i know what you mean with the wife.I've been married to wife#3 for 5 yrs(july) and i've gotten more things done on my car(s) than i have with my other wives. I think this one is a keeper:yes::yes:.will be looking for more pics as you go along.

Well I guess third times a charm huh... LOL. Glad to hear you found a good one this go around roadrunnerman. Hang on to her...She's a keeper :wtg:

wow!! that's like a night -n-day difference on that crossmember.yeah,i know what you mean with the wife.I've been married to wife#3 for 5 yrs(july) and i've gotten more things done on my car(s) than i have with my other wives. I think this one is a keeper:yes::yes:.will be looking for more pics as you go along.

:yes::yes::yes: Definitely a keeper. I knew mine (#2 for me) was a keeper before we were married when we had a little extra money and she TOLD me to get my car painted. I didn't even have a shop to work on it at the time (thanks to the ex:mad:)

Another fruitful evening of getting some work cranked out on the roadrunner.
After getting a sideways answer about the offset in the shackle mount bolt/bushing housing from AMD, and recommendations from a bunch of different folks, I decided to weld in the shackle mounts this afternoon. Jigging required quite a bit of help from Mr. Vise Grip and his friend the hammer.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm1.jpg

Getting in some of the areas to weld is pretty tough, but deffinitly possible

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm2.jpg

After finishing off the shackle mounts, I moved on to the rear crossmember.
This is the first car that I used a vast majority of AMD parts on. I'm finding out pretty quick that there is no "plug and play" or "turn Key" features about them. Quite honestly, as far as having to modify to fit/work, Sherman and Goodmark are pretty comparable. I guess what can you expect when you see "Made in Tiawan R.O.C." on your parts.:edgy:
Anyway, the crossmember extensions and the bottom of the new cross member both had to be pie cut/relief cut to be able to line up like the factory set up.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm3.jpg

After wrestling with the extensions, it was time to weld on the reinforcement brackets. They went on pretty good without a hitch. Although I did notice that the rear crossmember AMD sells has a different opening for the fuel nozzle than stock (factory round, AMD oval), and the upper lip of the crossmember is 3/16" less in width across than factory.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm4.jpg

Well after a couple hours of chuging away, old "skeletor" is starting to piece herself back together. Gonna collect myself for tomorrow, focus on fitting and welding in the rear crossmember and have myself a brew...Cheers fellas! :beermug:

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm5.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/cm6.jpg

Lookin' good Will, you are not waisting any time are you?. You have chosen not to try to replecate the factory spot welds on the frame rails?. What made you make that decision?. Your welds DO look sweet. I am asking because I was not faced with replacing any of those parts with repops, so all of the work I did do on the rear rails, I was having to refill all the spot welds I drilled out. Just curious.

You might have mentioned it before but what are you using for media blasting, (unit and material)? Did a Great job! I know this "old iron" helps too.:)

definitly looking good.you deserve to sit back and have a cold one.are you going to undercoat when you get to that stage?

Matt,
Thanks for the compliment. I did punch some holes on the top side of the frame rails and the bottom tabs of the shackle mounts. I think they're a bit covered up by the vise grips. However I did not for the sides. The factory used spot welds not to have a more rigid integrity, but to save time and money. I butt/joint welded the mounts in solid basically because it's stronger and i'm not too worried about having a perfect factory look. I plan on stroking out the 440 to a 512 stroker, so with having around 600HP, it gives me a little bit more piece of mind that the rear of the car is not going to be a weak link


Kid,
I used an Eastwood 100lb. Pressurized blaster with a 3MM nozzle. I guess the biggest issue I have heard/seen with these is keeping dry air running to them. I'm running a Ingersoll Rand Filter/Regulator and Desiccant Dryer for my spray gun/media manifold. Then from there another disposable Desiccant filter at the blaster, then into another filter/regulator built into the blaster plumbing. As far as media, for this piece I used 70 grit Black Beauty at 90 PSI, seeing it around 14-16 gauge metal. I'm pretty happy with the unit thus far.


Roadrunnerman,
Yes indeed I plan on undercoating. I will fill the rails, shackles before covering with the trunk pan, and the whole bottom underside of the car will be sprayed with 3M bed liner.
I wanna make damn sure this roadrunner doesn't have to worry about getting cancer in the rear again!

Looking good Will:yes:

Thanks Jay! You get the roadrunner out on the road the other weekend? You should get an audio recording of your engine running on here....That thing sounds like a monster!

Yes i did and the thing is a torque monster:yes:,pretty much roast the tires right off if you wanted at about any speed below 55:grin:.

Yes i did and the thing is a torque monster

I can imagine! That things gotta be like a tornado on a rollerskate. We gonna see you on the Waupaca County Police Blog? "Green high speed blur foils local deputys"

I can imagine! That things gotta be like a tornado on a rollerskate. We gonna see you on the Waupaca County Police Blog? "Green high speed blur foils local deputys"

25 years ago maybe,little older and wiser now:grin:

Gotcha! Time and a place, right....

Hey Prop,Nice car U thief!!! And U didnt waste any time gettin to the job,Just curious,new at this,what is the under coating U are talking about? Like rhino liner? Just curious for when I have made it that far,sweet runner!!!

Ben,
I seen you are selling the Satellite, moving on to another project? That car looks like a real fine canidate for a resto..Looks to be pretty solid & complete. Yes, i'm refering to a rhino liner type coating except it is made by 3M. Always had pretty good luck with all 3M automotive products. The price is a bit higher, but usually you get what you pay for. You looking for another roadrunner/satellite or something?

No I decided to keep the car I found a 68 matching numbers four speed 383 roadrunner that a guy who owned a salvage yard restored from o.e.m sheetmetal and all it needed was a paint job the guy was dumpin it because he was a chevy guy,he sold it before I could snag it,I love my car even though its a heap,but I love all the 66 through 70 b bodies,I am ordering all my sheet metal in a few minutes and the car will be going to the body shop monday where my body guy is walking me through the project,now im seeing it through til the end! A little nervous about doing the body work but my body guy is a good friend with 30 + yrs. experience.

Well good luck Ben. Can't wait to see your project unfold!

Thanks Prop,I will most likely be picking your brain about some of the body work,thanks for the 3m tip,and I definently wanna see skeletor in all her 512 cubic inch glory when she roars down the street,U do damn good work and I like that u are salvaging all the o.e. metal you can on her,thanks again!!

Hey thanks Ben! Try my best, sure wouldn't be possible without the generous advice I receive from folks like Matt, Donny and numerous others that are kind enough to take time out of their day to post this stuff and answer questions. When it becomes your time to jump in the saddle with your project, ask away...we're all willing to help you out.

Matt and Donny are alot of help and inspiration,seeing there projects makes me feel anything is possible,you to, and like you said all the others who have offered there help and time to helping all of us,the fbbo guys are awesome,and have dealt with every question I have asked,cant wait to get the satellite rolling,would be cool to meet all of u in person someday shake your hand and buy you all a brew or a few for all the help,Thanks alot!!

After enjoying an outstanding grilled BBQ Pork Loin's drizzled with authentic Texas BBQ Sauce from Rudy's (Donny sent up-Thanks again!!), it was time to hit up the roadrunner again.

Now some may think it's pretty silly I hack up a new panel to patch in the old, but I do want to stick with as much original metal as I can. I actually find it more of a challenge to be a proficent welder/fabricator, rather than a parts changer...Just my opinion.

Hacked!
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/ww1.jpg

I tried out these little panel jig/alignment tabs from Eastwood and I must say they work great! Don't have to worry about the weight, reach, or obstructions you face with a vise grip, although I still utilized some vise grips along with the tabs.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/ww2.jpg

All the tac welds in place.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/ww3.jpg

Just like new! As you can see, the old hunk was pretty rotten. I'll move on to fabricating new ears that extend out from the inside top lips of the frame rails for the shock mount crossmember tomorrow hopefully. The replacement rails did not have these ears for the mounting.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/ww4.jpg

here is what you really need

Hey Staurt....Thanks for the tip on the KC BBQ. Does Gates take internet orders?

or this

lookin' good prop. was looking at my RR yesterday and saw that i will be needing to replace my trunk floor and around by the wheel housing. Didn't look under at the frame rails,but i will be watching yours, matts,and donny's thread,so you guys get ready for alot of ??????????????????.

http://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com/ab/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8
get the rich and spicy if you get arthurs

or

http://www.gatesbbq.com/

or this

Geez, I thought that was Anita Bryant....:rolling:

Awesome! Thanks Staurt.....I'll be the local BBQ sauce conesuer with all these. Maybe start my own little diner.

Ask away Roadrunnerman...Lets get cuttin!!:chain saw:

this stuff is my personal favorite

http://www.jackstackbbq.com/Default.asp?bhcd2=1273761569

Geez, I thought that was Anita Bryant....:rolling:

:rolling: Yeah, every bottle comes with a paper rose!

My god Staurt...I see you have taken an in depth look into favorite local BBQ sauce's.

Gonna see you on "pit boss"?

a good bbq sauce makes anything tatse good.don't woory prop,when i get ready to start on the RR i will be posting pics of the car and taking input from everybody on where to start and what to dismantle.

Sounds like you're starting with a good plan r.r.man

it only took me 20+yrs to come up with it.:rolling::rolling::rolling:

My god Staurt...I see you have taken an in depth look into favorite local BBQ sauce's.

Gonna see you on "pit boss"?

There is a BBQ joint on just about every corner here , some much better then others , but yes i have partaken of most of them . :rolling:

Don't ANY of you guys have jobs???

not me , this is my job:grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:

If you prefer a rub (careful) rather than your BBQ slathered in sauce like meatloaf (which I always thought was an effort to conceal what you were about to eat) then I highly recommend Gordon's Grub Rub. http://www.grubrub.com/index.htm

Good stuff. It isn't sold in N.C., but I've started a devoted following for it there.

Thanks for the tip on the rub Runner...Gonna try it out. Geez, all these sauces and rubs! Instead of getting work done on the RR, i'll be sitting back getting fat and sassy grilling meat all day.:hungry:

Thanks for the tip on the rub Runner...Gonna try it out. Geez, all these sauces and rubs! Instead of getting work done on the RR, i'll be sitting back getting fat and sassy grilling meat all day.:hungry:

is that what happened to me?:rolling::rolling:

Works for ME:grin:

Some more progress this weekend:

The after market rear frame rail sections did not come with the tabs/ears that extend out to attach to the top of the shock crossmember, so i just cut out some 14 ga. tabs to cover the issue.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp1.jpg

No more peanut butter factory welds Matt!!

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp2.jpg

Welded in:

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp4.jpg

The trunk floor brace was a pretty easy addition, just drilled some 5/16" holes for the plug welds, roughed up, primed, and welded in place

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp6.jpg

Time to rip out the old rear fill panel. Not too bad to take out, just a few hick-ups with some pretty interesting factory spot weld locations on the lower trunk gutter lips.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp9.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp3.jpg

Was able to salvage the old trunk latch/loop support after drilling out 11 spot welds. Cleaned up pretty nice with my blast booth

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp7.jpg

Couldn't resist jigging up the new panels to give me a looksy of what's to come. After a little metal work to the factory lower trunk gutter lips, i'll weld in the new rear fill panel, then move on to the tail light bucket replacements.
After that, the trunk floor then weld on the rear crossmember

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/fp5.jpg

Nice work, as usual!. It is really coming together nicely. Do you plan on having the whole car media blasted at any point?. (Donny, behave and let Will answer on his own!)
Thanks again for that thread on the brightwork, it is a keeper.
I didn't get much done on the "DOG" yesterday, back acted up and I spent most of the day on my arss.

Thanks Matt,
Sorry to hear about the back. A stumped back can really change a guys whole quality of life. No problem on the brightwork thread. I know of at least 2 guys over there that have used Mike's formula with great results.

I do plan on getting the car media blasted once I get this major rebuild in the rear completed and a rear end back in the car. Obviously I have a ways to go yet on the sheetmetal and my 8 3/4 rear end for the car is still at the speed shop getting a Detroit Locker Diff., Green seals and bearings, 33 spline axles, and 3:91 gears put in :pop eyed tongue:

looking great

Thanks Buddy!

Hey Will who makes that lower bumper panel u have clamped on?? How did it fit I need one, along with the filler panel.

Ben,
The lower bumper panel (rear crossmember) I bought from Jeff from 521 Restorations. He has a thread here on FBBO. Great guy and great prices. It's made by AMD. I also bought new bumper mount reinforcements that mount to the rear outer surface of the crossmember, and also the the rear crossmember extentions. As far as fit, the reinforcements fit and welded on real nice. Just line up the holes in the reinforcement with the crossmember and weld on. The extentions need to be welded on beforehand and I did have a few issues with those. The bottom of the crossmember where it curves up at the end and the extention where it curves up as well do not correlate well. I did have to put a pie cut in the the extentions to make the curves line up by bending/forming. It's actually a bunch easier to do than try to explain..

As far as fitting the whole assembly, I guess it depends on how much else you are replacing around it. In my case, changing out the rear frame rails to aftermarket, and the shackle mounts (AMD), required me to do a bit of "tweeking" of the end of the shackle mounts and rear frame rail ears that bend out and then are welded to the rear crossmember. If you plan on using your original rails/mounts, i think the biggest pain in the rear would be cutting out the welds that attach them to the crossmember. Fit up would be pretty easy that route.

The rear crossmember (lower bumper panel) top lip is spot welded to the trunk pan and like I said earlier, welded to the end of the frame rails and shackle mounts. Also, there is tabs that extend out from the top of the frame rails and shackle mounts that tac onto the top lip of the rear crossmember. There is bent in lips on the edge of the rear crossmember extentions that spot weld to the the trunk pan extentions as well. To top it off the is a threaded stud at the bottom end of each frame rail and slide through a hole in the bottom lip of the rear crossmember.

It's really not too hard of a job to do. When you start taking the old one off, you'll see all the areas of welds that i'm talking about and it will be pretty easy to see how it comes apart. Be sure to level your car before hand and take lots of pictures, drawings and initial measurements so you can end up with the new one in the same location.

I bought the filler panel from Jeff at 521 resorations as well. The filler panel is mounted in via spot welds to the rear lip of the trunk pan, bottom of the tail light buckets, lower trunk gutters and has lips that curve out at the ends that mount to the quarter panels. You will also have to cut the attachment weld at the bottom of the trunk latch/loop support along with drilling out a couple spot welds that attach it to the trunk pan. I think the biggest part of changing the filler panel out is once it is out, your quarters become really easy to move around and out of position, especially if your rear crossmember is already out. I would recommend jigging them in place in some sort of matter to reduce play. At the very least, use a plumb bob to mark position and distance before just taking it out

Hope this helps

Wow great work! I lived through this with my car last year. Time and money! keep up the great job! best wishes! CD

Thanks for the awesome tips will,I will be checking back time and time again with you and Matt about these little issues that come up.my rear frame rails look fairly solid and what my body guy could see of them he said they dont look to be a problem area.my trunk floor is still connected it just is the strength of confetti,we got the car into the shop and already hit some snags,my drivers fender and door are pretty much all mud.So gonna need more metal for the satellite than I had hoped for,at least it will be new. I got my Metal from Jeff at 521 restorations as well,he is a real good guy and great prices to,I will go back and look to find those pieces for the rear panel.Thanks for all the help!!! And great job!!!

No problem Ben. Anything else I can help out with, please don't hesitate to ask. Looking forward to watching your Satellite project unfold. I know you'll do a great job!

Wow great work! I lived through this with my car last year. Time and money! keep up the great job! best wishes! CD

Thanks Clay! One piece at a time buddy..

hey prop,just got back to home and saw your progress pics. LOOKING GOOD!!! i'm going to try and look at my runner and see how it is.can't wait to see b4 and after pics when you get it done.

Thanks roadrunner..Same here. Actually got to do a bit of work on skeletor over the past few days here and there. I coated the inside of the frame rails, shackle mounts, and trunk gutters with some "Rust Bullet." I've used this stuff in the past with excellent results..Pretty pricey ($45.00 per quart), but you get what you pay for. After painting this stuff on, I got a refresher on how tough this stuff is. Gojo, Paint thinner, Gasoline, starting fluid, bleach couldn't even begin to take this stuff off my skin. Ah well, couple weeks of looking like Robo Cop, no Bigee.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q2.jpg

The inside of the rails and shackle mounts will be sprayed with 3M undercoating before the trunk pan goes in.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q3.jpg

Took quite a few vise grips to position the filler panel in just right, but i was pretty satisfied in the end.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q4.jpg

Welded in

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q5.jpg

Time to begin another lovely dueling round of drilling out spot welds. Tail light buckets are next to go...........

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q6.jpg

Sometimes a guy has to pick his battles. The old buckets were pretty bad on the outside and in.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q7.jpg

Buckets out...For anyone that attempts to pull these buckets out on their own ride, a little tip. A small tab of the tail light bucket housing on the top is sandwiched between the quarter panel lip (on top side) and trunk gutter frame (bottom side), so you must drill out the spot weld from the top on the quarter and then a spot weld from the bottom on the trunk gutter for the bucket to come out. Other than that, they come out pretty easy.


http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q8.jpg

Test fit the new buckets. Pretty impressed with the AMD fit on these. They will need a little trimming on the outside bottom outer corners to fit properly.


http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q9.jpg

Back to pick your battles...The lower trunk gutter/frames were corroded up pretty good. I did take the time to patch in a bunch of weak areas and small holes, especially underneath the tail light buckets. Some areas, the metal was almost as thin as paper, requiring a backing strip, then overlay, on to very tediuos welding, then grinding, then touch up welding, then grinding, then sanding....Obviously very very time consuming. I still got most of the old metal still in there, but if I had to do it again, i would propably just replace them. I did coat the repair areas afterwards also with some more rust bullet.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/q10.jpg


Hopefully I get a bit of time soon to weld these buckets in, then on to the trunk pan and rear crossmember. Later fella's

Here's a nice vid to get you guys pumped up for summer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=playnmJB_TI

Looking good Prop!, I went with the new lower gutters, mine were beyond repair. I have the uppers from the doner but for the time and effort I'll have to put into cleaning them up I will probably just replace them as well. Great idea on the Rust Bullet as well, I'd like to dip my whole care in that after its media blasted!.
Disturbing little video there, some of my best friends are marshmellows!.

ohhhhhhhhhhh Man very very very nice work !

i am still waiting for next pic .
:-)

Yes, good work! :yes:

Thanks gentlemen, more pic's coming soon!

How in hell did I miss this thread? Oh yeah, Finals 2 weeks ago, getting served for Divorce last week, mending fences this week, starting school; summer school semester which is 16 weeks of school crammed into 6 weeks! Yeah, I missed this thread alright! Good thing is I just read it all, and all comments, and sit here motivated as ever to get over to my shop ASAP and get busy on my stuff!! And, another good thing is despite being served, we agreed we hit rock bottom, and getting some counseling as to WTF happened, and make another round at it; see if we can make it better this time around! I appreciate the keeper, rather keepHer comments, she's a MOPAR lover; how on earth could I forgo that????

Prop, you stole that car! It looks nice, your work looks nice too; well planned, executed and the results show. I love also your 'hood, nice indeed!

Haha on the Media Blast comments, hehehaha. Just make sure whomever does it doesn't blast all the AMD black coating stuff off; that stuff is vital to keep the rust away.

And enjoy that BBQ sauce, need any more, let me know!

Donny, my god man! How much can a guy possibly have going on at once...Geesh! Think you need a Vacation. Maybe you should hitch a ride with Matt down to the islands. Good to hear you and the other half are giving it another go around. Wish the best to both of ya!

Thanks again for the BBQ sauce. That stuff rocks! Same with the rub. Awesome on everything

Also, good luck on you and Matt's sprint to the finish line. Both you guys have done a outstanding job on your projects and it's nice to see you both coming close to the final. lap. You both have been a great inspiration.

Take care

I know, I wonder, what would be the bar/goal to reach in our projects as they never are done, even running with a motor, there always is stuff to do!

This weekend I'll have some GTX and or Satellite time, unless a project comes in...but, I think I'd tell them to wait, got to make time for myself! I may actually set out to Media Blast both cars; rather, what's left of both cars! Yeah, that's my goal; both cars blasted! Long weekend, no classes, yeah, this will happen! Pics coming folks!!!

Glad you like the BBQ sauce. Yeah, no kidding about me and Matt down in the West Indies, I used to live there!

But, back on topic, your car is super nice, good work, and glad to see the funds are there to make it happen. With me, I blast and buy under ideal circumstances!

Thanks for the good words on another attempt...it's worth it. I'll be watching this thread!

Thanks Donny, I appreciate it!


Little more work done in between the garden, pool, yard, cookout fiasco's this time of year...

The new AMD tail light buckets just about ready to go in besides taking the flange/punch gun to the bottom lip and the die grinder to clean off the e-coat around the weld areas.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tb1.jpg

God Bless vise grips! I did have to use a couple sheetmetal screws on the driver side to be able to pull the metal tight against itself.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tb2.jpg

Just got to flaten these spot welds out a bit and the buckets are considered done. Off to the trunk pan this weekend!!!!!

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tb3.jpg

Propwash? Are you out there?, I miss you man!!.

Been wondering the same.

Thought he was going on a trip up north someplace.:edgy:

Funny...i was thinkin' earlier today that I haven't seen any posts of Will lately :edgy:chime in Will!!! need my welding fix for the day!!! :sixpack:

he OD'ed on BBQ sauce

didn't he say he was going to the mountains with his brother and doing some climbing and hiking?

WTF! Were those done with a spot welder!

WTF! Were those done with a spot welder!

Mig Baby!!!!.:grin:

I agree where the hell are you Will I need to see how your gonna weld in your trunk floor, because im beginning to think my body guy is a moron.

he OD'ed on BBQ sauce


:rolling::rolling: must be some good stuff....:)

BUUUUMP!! Paging Will...

BUUUUMP!! Paging Will...

I know, WTF, how does he ever expect to finish this car if he is off galavanting around some mountain somewhere?!:rolling:
I say we hijack this thread and start posting meeningless dribble on it for a couple of pages, how about a song, I'll start...
99 bottles of beer on the wall, 99 bottles of beer, take one down, pass it around, 98 bottles of beer on the wall...
OK someone take it from there!:rolling::rolling:

97 bottles of whiskey on the wall...er beer :rolling:

I think i found him..

:rolling::rolling::rolling::rolling:

GOOD DEAL!!! The only bad thing i noticed was that you let a Ford pull it!! BBBOOOOO!! lol hahaha!! But hey what a deal!!!

96 bottles of beer on the wall.:rolling::rolling::rolling:

Take one down, pass it around 95 bottles of beer on the wall.....

94

That car looks familiar somehow.....:yes:

93 bottles of beer on the wall...

Where in the hell is he???. I knew he was going on a vacation, but this is a bit much, don't you think?. Or his next post will be his Runner finished.

Hope he did not fall off a mountain or get eaten by a yeti. And 92 bottles of beer on the wall...

Found him huntin' for food...

Almost forgot...91 bottles of beer on the wall...91 bottles of beer...pack one up, er take one down...:angel4: pass it around...

!!!!!!!Aloha Boys!!!!!!!!

First off, let me say thanks to all you guys for taking the time to put thought into my whereabouts. You are all truley class act gent's. It's great to be back! :grin:

Got quite a kick out of the illustrations. Don't know if i'm quite as dashing as the Grizzly Adams fella yet, but give me 30 years and a Nebraska Truck Stop souvenir isle with 200 bucks in my pocket, we'll be good to go.

The past several weeks have been simply nuts. Spent two weeks living in the Cloud Peak Wilderness Area of the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming, scaling passes, consuming 14 lbs of trail mix and beef jerky, and trying to keep Yogi out of camp. Had another 2 weeks for work up in Fairbanks Alaska trying not to get carried away by the blood sucking Teradactyl's they call mosquito's. Another week in Longview Texas, learning what it's like to survive in a oven and take the State of Texas's melt your flesh off, summer weight loss program (don't know how you do it Donny & Runner). And now, just got back from a week long music festival in Northern Wisconsin, pretty much turning me into a turn key alcoholic requiring a new liver and a couple years of dedicated detox.

So, all I can say is, it's good to be home! And glad to see you guys! As far as the Roadrunner, I wish I could say she's complete Matt, but the hollowed out neglected soul of a Plymouth still haunt's my mind (and garage), every waking moment i'm not striking an arc or dressing on a new beautiful black portion of fresh steel to her riches. I did get a small oasis of time to add to all of her Mopar glory, including fit, template, drill, and weld in the trunk pan. Also got the fill panel welded in as well. I'll be sure to post some pic's quite soon. Outer wheelhouses and trunk extentions are on the agenda hopefully starting sometime this week.

Anyway, great to be back, thanks for caring, probably did overdose but not on BBQ sauce, didn't see no yeti's Ben but met a chic in minnesota that was pretty damn close, welcome back Black Sheep (MarPar) see you must have taken a short break in desecrating the alter of the gods for awhile :app: LOL, John Rambo rocks, and .......90 bottles of beer on the wall :beermug:

Great now that we have all of that staightened out you can finally get back to work on that RR, time is a wasting!.:grin:
Seriously though, good to have you back brother!, I can't remember the rest of the words to that beer song anyway!, speeking of beer... :beermug: It is my birthday today and I am in the Caribbean for it, so I'm goin out for some island fun with the crew tonite!!:grin:

Thanks, it's great to be back! and Happy Birthday! What a great place to celebrate. Hope you stumble across all kinds of fruity rum drinks tonight...Have a great one buddy!:party:

:bday3:

Promised some pic's so here you go fella's


I coated the inner frame rails with Rust bullet and in this pick was about to put a nice few coats of 3M rubberized undercoating on top of that. Great stuff, applies well, comes with 2 pattern nozzles.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a2.jpg

Pic of a half of the trunk pan after I fitted it in and traced the outline of the rails, brace, and spring hangers. Little trick works great for creating a visual template where to drill your holes for the plug welding

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a3.jpg

Both halves in, drilled and fitted with the help of several sheetmetal screws

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a4.jpg

Finished product after filling in the plug welds, multiple tacking the center seam and welding the pan onto the inner wheelhouses

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a5.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a6.jpg

Somewhat coming together now with the fill panel now welded in to the trunk pan. I vise gripped the rear crossmember on and started tweeking that part for proper fit up and alignment.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a7.jpg

Some work done tonight.... Cut off the outer wheel house next to the seam from outer to inner. Just ended up initially cutting around the torque box, then once the main portion was detached, drilling out the torque box to outer wheelhouse spot welds and removing the remaining metal.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a8.jpg

After using the old wheel house for a cutting template for the new, it was time to trim off the new part to fit accordingly. Kudo's to you guys that remove the whole wheelhouse via factory welds at the seams. There is a staggering amount of spot welds joining the two and almost a continuous stitch type welding towards the front.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/a9.jpg

Now thats what I'm talkin about:grin:!

Glad 2 C U are back! Hope you enjoyed your vacation! should have snapped a pic of the yeti chick! Any way nice work on the runner,hope mine gets there soon!

I'm glad your gallivanting about the countryside went well!!! We missed ya, Will!!! :tongueflap: Glad you're back, and workin' on da runner!! i've had withdrawls from not seeing your magic metal work! Matt has been keeping me going with his progress the Dog, but now he's working in paradise, and i'm getn' da shakes, man!!! :rolling:

BTW my short break from the desecration activities, is coming to an end soon! :rolling::rolling:

After reading Matt's thread and reading yours, I'm about dizzy! Wow, what an incredible about of work y'all have done to bring these cars back to new. :tiphat: As for being hot in Longview.....c'mon on down a but further to the Houston area where the humidity is nearly the same as the temps are lol.

Thanks Cranky. All the work keeps me out of trouble I guess :weg:. Houston would be almost suicide for a Great Lakes guy like me. Don't know how you do it. I Like the Dirty Hairy pic by the way.

BTW my short break from the desecration activities, is coming to an end soon! :rolling::rolling:

Thanks MarPar...Glad to be back!

I'll be listening for the sound of war trumpets. I can hear angry bee's stirring already.....LOL.

dude you work so fast

I'm with Cranky. You guys have made alot of progress, and done a great job! I'm still in the "hunt-and-gather" stage. But I will refer to these threads once I get rolling. Thank-you guys

I have been hunting and gathering for awhile I am in the pulling my car apart and cleaning rust part. Will u are an animal fast and effective if I had the $ to fly u from x-mas island I would pay u to come help me!

good to see you back from your savaticle, you mentioned the heat in texas dont you live in wisconsin? around here its been in the mid to upper 80's and pretty humid as well. im glad ive got mine out of my garage and to the body shop where i'll be painting (or my father) it. now i just need to get my old man to go to the shop for more than just a few hours a weekend so i can finally get mine painted. i cant wait to see how yours turns out at the rate you've been going (when your here) you should be doing body work before the summer is over.

Thanks for the compliments fella's. Guess I'm a bit of a workaholic Stuart, or maybe just a glutten for punishment? Wish work would slow down a bit so I could spend a bit more time on the Roadrunner, but I guess there is worse problems to have. Definitly better than the alternative.

I really look forward to see your projects unfold on here Scott and Ben. Still have a few parts to round up myself. I'd help you out in a heatbeat Ben (no charge!). Hope all is going well with your disassembly. I know there is a ton of great folks to get parts from on here. General and BillRT just to name a couple have been great to work with. Stand up guys.

Morbid, you ain't kidding about the friggin humidity around here. Oshkosh dry out yet? I saw you guys got like 4 inches of rain in 4 hours wednesday. That town must be a wreck, all the construction now compounded by half the streets shut down because they're flooded. I've been following your thread on the GTX....Nice work! That firewall job turned out awesome. I'm no color GuRu, but is that Hemi Orange you decided to go with. Either way-nice choice.

Got a bit more work done on the roadrunner tonight. Pretty much got the drivers side outer wheelwell cut down just the the passenger side now. i'll toss up some more pic's after I get the new wheelhouses welded on. After that, the trunk extentions, then the rearcrossmember.

You guys have a great weekend!

well our streets are dry but there are still people pumping water out of their basements i guess i got lucky this time since my road (costing me 7k) just got redone in front of my house with all new larger storm water sewers and ya i am going hemi orange with my gtx i love the hot colors mopar used but i see to many sassy grass greens and plum crazies around any local shows but the only orange mopes i see around are general lee replicas. so thats why i chose orange

Pretty sick all weekend but managed to get the pass. side outer wheelhouse installed today. Cleaned up surrounding area, applied rust bullet, and then also some rubberized undercoating on the welds and heat affected zone. Sorry not too descriptive folks...gotta get some rest...Take care


http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w1.jpg

Tac Tac Tac and tac again....gotta be the most boring part, creating hundreds of tacs till ya end up with one full weld
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w3.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w4.jpg

Lookin good

Thanks buddy

Yes I like it!

Gratzi Matt..looking forward to the "Dog" project rolling when you get back.

Gratzi Matt..looking forward to the "Dog" project rolling when you get back.

You and me both, buddy. Hope your feeling better soon.:grin:

Appreciate it. Drowning it out with a couple Leinenkugel's Summer Shandy as we speak.

at least your making progress, wish i was oh well it gives me more time to design my stripe layout

hey will,glad too see you back.lookin good on the wheel well.i hope everything goes together for like a piece of cake.

Thanks Roadrunnerman! I'm hoping the same buddy

been busy here dismantaling one of my p/u's so i can use the parts for my 4x4 ramcharger.hated to do it but i guess one has to give up so another can live.:sad:

I'm diggin it Prop!!

Awesome!!

Thanks Dave......Again, glad to have ya here

I had a couple guys PM on me with a bunch of questions for my outer wheelhouse replacements. I figured it would be a bunch easier to reply by just posting here. Hope this helps guys.

I cut right along the panel before the rise avoiding drilling out spot welds mainly because Mopar did not hold back on joining the outer to inner wheelhouse. I would say there is a weld pretty much almost every 1/8" to 3/16" of an inch. Way too time consuming to drill all out and I would just end up with a mangled lip to rejoin the two.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s3.jpg

The front 18" does not have a raised edge so I used tape to use as a guide line for my cut.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s4.jpg

There is 3 to 4 spot welds that join the outer wheelhouse to the rocker which will need to be drilled out. Tenderly continue your cut for outer wheelhouse removal. Use a cutting wheel and be careful not to cut through the trailing edge of the rocker

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s5.jpg

To drill out, hit with a center punch then use a decent spot weld removal bit. The one I use from Blair Tool in Michigan (which Matt so kindly recommended), works excellent! It has a spring loaded pilot and the bit chews through metal like a champ.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s6.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s7.jpg

When I got those spot welds drill out, I cut around the large torque box and the small rear one to remove the bulk of material. To remove the rest of metal in those areas you'll have to use a cutting wheel from inside the wheelwell. Again, be careful to just cut through the old outer wheelwell material and not through the bottom of the torque box. There is also spot welds on both torque box attachments that will need to be drilled out.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s8.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s9.jpg

Take your new panel and a good body saw and cut along same ridge. For the front area that does not have the ridge, take the old piece and trace the outline of your cut. I'm always a bit generous on leaving a bit extra metal on a cut like that. It may need to be trimmed but it is a whole lot easier than if you take too much metal off

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s11.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s10.jpg

Once you are completed with the daunting task of fitting up, which usually involves putting in place, trimming, putting in place, trimming, and so on, start making your small tack's to secure. The metal is still thin enough where I wouldn't recommed a continuous welds, but overlapping tack's. Make one tack, move 3-4 inches, do another and so on. Be sure to let the panel/weld area cool before starting over again

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s12.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s13.jpg

After completing your welds, flaten them out a bit with a grinder or small stone bit to eliminate any pits or divets that could hold settling dirt/moisture down the road. I treated the heat affected zone, weld, and known corrosion areas with rust bullet. Be sure to blast, wirewheel or sand any other areas that have light surface rust before applying the rust bullet or what ever product you use. I will also coat the area with 3M rubberized undercoating to level out and protect the area even more. Also, I did not have a pic for drilling new holes in the front of the outer wheelwell where it lines up with the rocker due to the fact I need to replace my whole rocker. Just pre drill 3-4 1/4" to 5/16" holes that will line up with the trailing edge of the rocker and fill. You will obviusly need to weld in the drilled out spot welds in the two torque box areas as well.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s14.jpg

Since I had a bit more time today, I also coated the trunk pan to inner wheelhouse seam with rust bullet again since it is all welded up now. Once cured I will use 3M brushable seam sealer in this area to keep dust, dirt, moisture out just like the factory did. I also painted the inside of the rear crossmember, bottom area of trunk pan where it secures on, and the ends of the frame rails/ shackle mounts with rust bullet, since this is definitly an area where these cars love to rot out

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s15.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/s16.jpg


I also got a chance to remove the rear windshield. The car has the glued in style mounting with the lovely black tar goo. Against all my better judgement, I went to Harbor Freight to buy this winshield removal tool. I couldn't find on anywhere else...If it breaks, screw it, i'm out 12 bucks. Anyway, it comes with 2 T-Handels a bunch of brass wire, and a slim jim type tool to push the wire from one side of the windshield to the other.

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w1-1.jpg

I ended up not using the little slim jim tool, but was able to pry the rear windshield up just enough with a trim removal tool to push half of a 5 foot long hunk of brass wire through

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w2-1.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/w3-1.jpg

Once the wire is through the inside and outside, slide the wires into your T-Handles and secure. You will obviously need 2 people for this technique. When you start pulling the wire around the window seal, be sure to pull in a manner both people pull the wire along as flat to the window as possible. This will reduce the chance to get snagged up on the cars metal under the glue strip and the trim clips if you haven't removed them yet. Once all the way around, have the person inside gently press out at the top of the window tilting out, while being held by the person outside. Get both parties then to remove the window completly by tilting to about 45-65 degrees then lifting up. Good luck!

Time to end this novel...Hope everyones elses projects are going great, and talk at you folks soon!

Nice work Prop, you make it look easy.

Thanks Matt....It really isn't too hard of a job. With the nice stamps AMD makes on the outers, fit up was a breeze.

looking good prop do you have a projected timeline of when you plan on haveing the metal work done and ready to start bodywork

very nice work. I used plain old mig welding wire to cur the back window out of a 68 coronet a couple of years ago. That was slow going but it did work.

this is fantastic work going on here and great pictures.

Well I guess that's hard to say morbid.. When I first got her home I was shooting to have her painted before the snow started flying, but you know how that goes. I suppose it all depends on how the quarter panel installation goes. I gotta wrap up securing the rear crossmember tonight/tomorrow and the start the rocker panel replacement. After that, the quarters......I'm still shooting to have it ready for paint before the end of the year, but we'll see how that goes.

How's your GTX project going by the way? Any more progress? Must be nuts down in Oshkosh this week with the EAA going on. (especially by your work)

very nice work. I used plain old mig welding wire to cur the back window out of a 68 coronet a couple of years ago. That was slow going but it did work.

this is fantastic work going on here and great pictures.

That's a good idea Dave...I suppose if a guy got in a pinch, wrap some MIG wire around a 1" wood dowel or something and go to town...

Thanks and glad you like the pic's....You gonna start moving on your Roadrunner resto soon? Any ideas on what you're gonna do with the paint job (try to save it or repaint)?

Oh the bird is going to be a repaint for sure, not a rotisserie job but I'll pull at least the front & rear glass, rip off the vinyl top, fix any pitting/pinholes under there. Sand the whole car bare on the outside with my big 8" sander, it needs trunk floor center over the fuel tank, left and right trunk to 1/4 extentions, needs a 1/4 repair skin on the drivers side, possibly just front & rear lower repair panels for passenger side and I need to repair drivers side inner wheel house from what I suspect was a tire incodent. like the face came off a tire at a high tate of speed & slapped/hooked the wheel house in back, screwed it up. That forward corner of the fuel tank is beat up too, it really looks like the drivers rear tire exploded.

my interior is decent except for headliner and I have a new one already. the white vinyl top is going back on and I've narrowed my color choices down to either the original T7 bronze or something like this burnt orange which I think would look good with my tan interior and white top.

please ignore the machine, the color is what i'm trying to show here & this is what i came up with lol!

http://www.atvriders.com/images/polaris/polaris-2009-ranger-hd-rzr-s-utv-review/polaris-rzr-s-800-sport-utv-orange.jpg

That thing is sweet! I don't know if the Ski-Doo would allow a Polaris in the garage next to it, but man that would be fun to take that out for a spin!! The color is great!! Almost looks like (dare I say it) Hugger Orange. Sounds like you got your plans in order for the resto of your bird. Can't wait to see it rolling on here.

Where you at over in Minnesota Dave? Up in the Iron Range? I'm over toward the Green Bay area in Wisconsin....Please no Vikings/Farve talk......LOL

Take care!

oh god don't worry about me turning anything into a football conversation lol!!

I'm over in lake of the woods area in far northern MN. West of iron range, north & west actually.

I hung a bunch of new tin on a 68 coronet not too long ago. I did quarter skins, trunk extantions, dicected a good trunk center out of a donor car & transplanted it, front floor pans...

the quarter skins turned out good the way I did it but I think I want to try a little different method this time with mine. On my buddy's car I cut from the back of the door to the tailpan on the quarter side about 1/2" below the top bend which was like 90 degree or better bend on the dodge.

then I left the replacement skin panel about 3/8" long at the fitment point & flanged it full length. I tucked the flanged edge up under the cut edge, tacked & stitched it full length.

It was pretty good, did both sides that way but if I do skins in my bird I think I want to join panels up top, above the top bend rather than down the side of that long panel... does that make sense?

how does the rest of the B-body world do it?

as a rule?

hey tell me about this "rust bullet"? is that an eastwood product or??

Ah, Lake of the Woods..Beautiful area! Great Perch and Walleye fishing up that way.

I don't think there is any rule of thumb for skin replacement. The route you went with sounds pretty typical and it sounds like you really know what you are doing. I know a lot of folks that flange on the side, flange the old material side on the upper half so there isn't an edge dirt/ moisture can settle on. I guess it's a preference if you want to go with a flanged fit up vs. butt weld. I've never tried fit up above the the top body line. I think a couple reasons you don't see that done much is A) with a fit up on the side of the body, you'll have more surface area to feather in the old skin to the new, especially if you get a bit hot with the welder and put some warp in the panel. B) A lot of new skins only have 1-2" of the top of the panel (most areas requiring the new panel for repair are in the lower area of the old panel), limiting fit up if car geometry hampers with curves, corners. Just a couple reasons I've heard of in the past. Never seen or tried joining up top myself, so I honestly can't say. Hell, whatever works for ya, i'd say go with it! A lot of new car MFG's and also a majority of body shops go with the panel bonding adhesive (like 3M or SEM). It fills in the flange space, thus reducing the area open to atmosphere/oxidation. The risk of warpage due to welding is minimized, and it is less time consuming.

As far as Rust Bullet. It is a product like POR 15. I personally think it works much better. I've used it for years now with great results. It can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed on and is completly sandable/paintable. It converts oxidation to a hardened solid that becomes part of the coating. It also inhibits rust from forming as well as encapsulating. Guaranteed not to rust for 10 years in all conditions. Started seeing it in the automotive world back in the 90's. I first used it in the Air Force with our F-15's on certain internal components with great resolve. Started seeing in more and more at body shop's and other classic car ownwers rides after that. Now I see it commercially at power plants, paper mills, refineries, shipyards, and structually. It is just amazing what the stuff holds up to in all the enviroments i've seen it in.

I don't know if Eastwood sells it or not, but it is not made by them. I go right to the Manufacturer to buy it (rustbullet.com). The stuff is not cheap (around 50 bucks a quart shipped), but you get what you pay for. One thing about it is if you get it on your skin, be prepared to wear it for a week or two...It does not come off with anything.

Nicely done propwash, even though I am going through the same rebuild on a mod top Satellite, I am in awe of your work! Keep it up. Oh and by the way I had to take a cut off wheel to the seam of that damn outer wheel house, it seems as though its a different kind of spot weld. Looks like a square spot weld that is pretty much end to end.

Well I guess that's hard to say morbid.. When I first got her home I was shooting to have her painted before the snow started flying, but you know how that goes. I suppose it all depends on how the quarter panel installation goes. I gotta wrap up securing the rear crossmember tonight/tomorrow and the start the rocker panel replacement. After that, the quarters......I'm still shooting to have it ready for paint before the end of the year, but we'll see how that goes.

How's your GTX project going by the way? Any more progress? Must be nuts down in Oshkosh this week with the EAA going on. (especially by your work)

ya i know what you mean about finish dates getting pushed back i was really expecting to have mine painted during the week after the 4th (we have that week off every year) the only progress ive had is blocking and primering however that being said i MIGHT be spraying the whole body minus the hood in the orange this coming weekend then coming back the following weekend to spray my stripe design

as for oshkosh let me put it this way im only leaving the house to go to and from work but its always crazy here when you've got people from all over the world coming to one city for a giant air show

Nicely done propwash, even though I am going through the same rebuild on a mod top Satellite, I am in awe of your work! Keep it up. Oh and by the way I had to take a cut off wheel to the seam of that damn outer wheel house, it seems as though its a different kind of spot weld. Looks like a square spot weld that is pretty much end to end.

Thanks Wingcarenvy....That whole square style spotweld almost completly stitched together is nuts isn't it? How the heck would a guy reasonably get all of those out without destroying the integrity of that lip? I can't speak for my Coronet and those St. Louis builders, but it seams the guys went Ape with the spot welder down at Lynch Road.

Morbid....Be sure and toss up some pick's of that bad boy once you get her sprayed. Pretty interested in seeing your custom hood stripes you got in the mix.. Saw EAA on the news last night. Looks like half the campers have their RV's stuck in the mud, the rest camping on black top parking lots.........Sounds like a lot of fun!

hey prop,i can't believe how much you've got done so far,but i know you;ve got more to go,that's why i'm enjoying every bit of this step by step.

Glad you're enjoying the thread roadrunnerman, and you are definitly right, sure got a bunch more to go! By the time I get this bird back on the road we're going to end up with a 50 page thread...LOL. Should have named the thread " Tactical Guide to Rust Belt Restoration" or "The Book of Oxidation Elimination."

I did get my rear crossmember tacked on and i'll toss up some pic's soon. I'm planning on starting the full rocker panel replacement here in the next couple days.Stay tuned, it's gonna be a blast.......well, probably not, but i'll be tossing up some pic's anyways!

Also need some opinions from you guys........Looking forward (far forward!), i'm putting a vinyl top back on the car. I'm the kind of cat that likes to do things myself and was sporting the idea of doing it myself. Been reading threads here and other places like Mopar Muscle to get an idea on how to install and it seems like kinda of a one shot deal to put them on. Obviously there are things on this car already I've had no experience doing in the past and have grab the bull by the horns and got it done, but the vinyl is pretty much going to be one of the final delicate touches and i'm kinda freaking out about ending up with wrinkles, slack, misalignment, glue all over, or the glue setting before in place due to the fact I might be working a bit too slow being cautious in all. The place that will be redoing my seat covers and headliner also installs vinyl tops for $375. Any of you guys installed one before? Is it something not that hard i'm just wasting time freaking out about, or is it something a guy would just shell over the cash and have the proffesionals deal with?

Thanks guys

hmm... I'm in the same boat as you with the vinyl top on my 69 RR. I guess if I had a local shop that would do it for 375... is that price including the top itself too?

I dunno, I might farm that job out if I can get it done for 375.

That and any glass that's urethane fit. I do the gasket fit glass but I like to leave the "glued in" jobs to the windshield pros.

Like you I'm not afraid to learn to put a vinyl top on but if the price is right for having an experienced person do it for me I might consider it.

i personally havent put any on however i know my father has. ill be seeing him this weekend ill try to remember to ask him about it

Ive done it,its not a one person job.Once down thats pretty much it.Did mine myself and wished i would have got help and it was a bitch.Did it half at a time and do any trimming ahead of time.

Thanks for the info gent's and thanks for asking your dad Morbid.

Dave, $375 for just the install. That includes reinstalling trim. The tops are readily available for around $100-120 bucks.

Wannadrag, after hearing your story and talking with a few more folks that attempted it themselves, and it seems it may be a bit easier just to fork over the lute, don't sweat it, and let the pro's deal with it.

I like learning but some things I'm willing to let go. Especially if I identify the fact that what I am about to learn is sort of an art itself that requires practice.

Example, I built my own house, I framed it, sheeted, did the plumming, wiring, I did everything except the concrete work and I also hired a crew to hang the sheetrock and tape/mud/texture.

I'm ok with not learning concrete work and I'm ok with letting an experienced crew race through the sheetrock work. :grin:

And now I'm thinking I'm ok with letting someone else put a vinyl top on my car (if my vinyl goes back on)

well Will, i talked to my old man today and i got nothing but bad news. first is yours he recommends to have a professional do your vinyl he said one person can do it themself but it is a b!tch and you need to be pretty strong. he recommends doing it at about 75 degrees in the shade and also said NOT to pre trim it. you need the exra material so you can clamp the top nice and tight so it will dry with out air bubbles (recommends cutting some strips of wood and using vice grips to clamp the excess to the drip rails) then after dry come back and trim with a new sharp razor blade. on the plus side he said that 375 is not a bad price for you

now as for my bad news, it looks like my car is going to get pushed back another week. he tells me he can't help me this weekend now. maybe by the end of summer it'll be painted :(

:app: damn' Will, i see you resurrecting this old bird, and it makes a man think.. :popcorn:....

Ditto on that dave..............

Morbid...Thanks for asking buddy. I think with you telling me that, it pretty much puts the nail in the coffin. I'll have the pro's do it. I could see doing it if it was something I was interested in and wanted to expand my capabilities, but honestly that does not really sound like a whole lot of fun to me..Bummer on the car hey!!! I can't imagine being that close and having to wait that much longer....Ummm, I'll shut up, probably not helping out the situation much.......

You should jump all over that 69' RR for sale in iowa MarPar. We could mail each other chunks of rust and rotten body panels from each others car...LOL

will,got the same problem you have on the vinyl.maybe if you had a friend,warm weather,rollers to get the wrinkles out...yea you're right,there's no price for getting it professionally done.:grin::grin:

will,got the same problem you have on the vinyl.maybe if you had a friend,warm weather,rollers to get the wrinkles out...yea you're right,there's no price for getting it professionally done.:grin::grin:


Yeah, no doubt roadrunnerman......The top is kind of like seat covers or installing a headliner. Not really interested in learning or doing (or screwing up!) either. Just don't find that type of work that appealing. Now give me a welder, sawzall, and a set of wrenches...Life is good!

Got a bit more work done on Skeletor over the weekend..I'll post some pic's soon!

Have a good one guys.....

i'll be waitin' will.hopefully the guy is coming today to p/u my pickup and then when i get home i can pull my RR out and get some photos of it for you guys to look at.i took my vinyl off so then you can tell me if my roof looked like yours.

Excellent!! Can't wait for your pic's

Nice work and thanks for the tips with the backglass, looking forward to see the trunk ready.

Thanks swede and no problem on the tips, always willing to help out fellow mopar cats like myself.

Got a couple pic's to toss up. With work running me at full tilt and a billion other things to do, the old Plymouth isn't getting as much TLC as i'd like...Soon to change though!

Started on the full rocker replacement (what a treat!) I'll post some pic's when i get a little further in the removal installation.

I did get the rear crossmember completely installed now. The rear is actually starting to have a firm feel to it. Lot better than a couple months ago when i just had some hacked up quarters which made up my whole rear of the car.

The crossmember is welded to the frame rail flanges and shackle mount flanges in the rear. The top of lip of the crossmember is the welded to the bottom side of the trunk pan inside the outer lip of the fill panel. The fill panel is welded to the bottom trunk gutters and tail light buckets. The trunk pan is welded to the rear floor rise at the hump, also then to the frame rails, shackle mounts, inner wheelhouses, and then the fill panel. Of course the trunk brace is tied in as well as the tank supports.
The trunk pan will also be tied into the extention panels, which weld onto the outer wheelhouses, quarters and then the top of the crossmember lip as well as the crossmember extentions.
whhewwww......... Holding off on fully installing the trunk extentions till the quarters are being fitted, just to avoid any issues with fit up back there.

Getting some R & R this weekend guys. Hitting up a 4-day weekend of camping, hiking, fishing, and plain old kicking back having a few cold ones.

Take care all!

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tl2.jpg

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tl1.jpg

Starting to feel a lot better after dealing with this just a short bit ago

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/propwash4/Roadrunner%20Resto%20Stage%201/tr5.jpg

Looking really good Prop, I am on the verge of taking a few days off to focus on the "DOG", it feels like it's been over a month since I worked on it, oh yes, it has been.:mad:

Oh she's lookin good!!

Thanks Dave.....I cannot wait until I get these stinking rockers put in! After that.......The quarters! She will finally start looking like something again.

Matt.......What the heck man! You on a sabbatical now? Lets get rolling dady'o..You heading down to Woodard Dream Cruise on the 21st?

Are you thinking bout putting sub frame connectors in too?

Is your cowl cracked at all where the windshield posts come down to the cowl?

How about the quarters right at the forward top edge of the quarter where it wraps in to the door opening (right below the 1/4 window)?

Seems like if these B bodies get too structurally floppy from rust they can start cracking in these areas from body twist, more likely if someone has been running them hard though, hooking up good & putting some twist on them.

By far putting sub frame connectors in the car Dave. With a 512 stroker, I need all the support I can get. As soon as I tidy up the new front floor pans, those puppies will be welded in. As far as my cowl, no she isn't cracked up there but I did notice some mud work on the forward edge thats coming apart and it looks like some yahoo used a pry bar or big screwdriver in the past to remove the wiper arms, in turn dents in the cowl and the vent openings are all bent up. I actually got a new outer cowl from AMD I will be putting in.

The quarters are cracked where it makes the turn into the jam up top. I have definitly seen this before as well. I plan on templating in reinforcement metal to the inside of that area. Tac it on before full install, then full weld once installed through the opening in the inside door panel. Gonna be tough, but I had a 72' roadrunner crack there only 2 years after new quarters.

On the trunk pan I not only spot welded the pan to the top of the rails/shackles, but I also tac'd from the bottom side as well for more support. I also got more aggressive with the amount of welds to the inner wheelhouses as well. With the Trugrip Detroit Locker mounted on the Calvert Racing Cal Trac Traction system, when she grabs I sure don't need the rest of the cars structure twisting up like an accordion

Awesome, looks like I will be following your lead on structural integrity and I'll be watching your traction mods & locker upgrade as well.

My suregrip is slipping and my old school slapper bars don't really get things done for me when the suregrip does grab. I get too much tire chatter back there right now.

On the 68 coronet I did for my buddy I did the same as you have planned for your cracked quarter areas. Wasn't too bad since I had the skins cut off anyways.

512 stroker? holy cow!

looking at my 69 RR closer last night, it took a good hit to the drivers side somehow back in the day before it's signed & dated 1976 paint job.

quarter is thick with bondo, some evedince of the door seeing some of that hit with the door latch assembly being out of place, shoved inwards so the door closes too far... I might be in for all kinds of surprises when I start taking mine apart this winter.

hey will,looking good on your end.finally got those pics i promised take a look,i'll value yours and everybody else's opinion.

Saw the pic's Roger. Cool Roadrunner, and 24 years of having her, impressive!!
Like I said on your thread, looks like our cars share much of the same cancer. Definitly a great canidate for restoration. Can't wait to see your project unfold!

i've learned alot on how to do mine just tracking yours and matt's project.

Good to hear someone else tried out that "beefing up" trick in that quarter area Dave.

I'll definitly keep you up to date when I fit up my moded 8 3/4 and install the cal trac system. I actually heard about the Cal Track System from the guy at the speed shop that's putting my rear end together. He works a lot with a bunch of NHRA superstock and prostock fellows that run them on their rides at home and their toys on the strip.

I also spoke with a few fellow owners of them around here and at racingjunk.com. Nothing but good things. I also spoke with a gentleman at Calvert Racing ( I believe Tim?), for about 20 minutes. Good guy, very helpful.

:(Sorry to hear about your new found prior damage and issue with the latch. I guess you know as well as I do there's always a can of worms to be opened with these cars. You tossed around the idea of changing out the jam? I suppose it depends on what you find when you tear her apart a bit more.

Hey Dave, toss up some pic's of your buddies 68' Coronet if you have any...Kinda prone to those cars myself for some odd reason :edgy:

i've learned alot on how to do mine just tracking yours and matt's project.

I'm glad and i'm sure Matt does as well, that we could help out. Looks like you, Ben and Dave will be starting projects all around the same time...

kind of funny.......... Roadrunner in Michigan being restored..........Roadrunner in Wisconsin being restored...........Sport Satellite in Indiana being restored..........Roadrunner in Iowa being restored...............Roadrunner in Minnesota being restored...........

Ummmm, "The 68-69 Midwestern B-body Rust Belt Gang"...LOL

Someone should write an article or make a t-shirt on all this!

Just glad to be here and know there still is a lot of good folks out there like yourselves.......Cheers guys! :beerchug:

The Speed Channel has got nothing on us!.:grin:

well prop, does this kind of work look familiar? :)

Lordy what a mess!! I tell ya we really put these cars on a fitness program when we cut the cancer out & put new tin in, it just makes you fee good don't it?

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/smallpieceoflowerfronquarterlefttor.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/sheetmetalreplacedintailoftrunklid.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/DSC01044.jpg

those are a few random pics from my photobucket account I ran across with a quick look this morning.

The poor car is still in primer and sits at someone elses shop now, I got busy with other projects, the owner wasn't pushing me too hard to get it done... I don't know. it just slipped through the cracks, good solid car now that needs a little skim coat, blocking & paint.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/100_1572.jpg

found some before & after of the cracked sheetmetal area we were talking about.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/passengerdooropeningcrack.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/passengerdooropeningcrackrepaired.jpg

well prop, does this kind of work look familiar? :)

Lordy what a mess!! I tell ya we really put these cars on a fitness program when we cut the cancer out & put new tin in, it just makes you feel good don't it?

Definitley does Dave! And thanks for the pic's. Looks like you do some knock out work!

The cracked up quarter to jam edge is pretty much exactly what mine looks like now. Sure is a crying shame she's still sitting dead in a shop somewhere. At least she's at the point she is now and not rotting in a field somewhere!

That car shed bucketloads of rust flakes, dirt & misc unidentifyable junk during tear down.

I even evicted a couple of mice on that job, I don't know what kind of damn mice they were but they were living inside the trunk lid, no kidding. They must have crawled up into the understructure near the trunk hinges, they had put stuffing & junk up inside right at the tail of the trunk lid. I had to cut out the tail section & make new patches for the trunk lid & when I opened the tail of the trink lid these guys were inside (dead already, maybe from heart atack from all the grinding going on lol!!)

here's one of the meese I evicted from the mopar.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/mousenumber2.jpg

Here's a replacement patch tacked in place. You can see a trunk floor center I grafted in from a donor car in this pic too.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/rightpatchformedtackedinplace.jpg

pull some roof dents? G'damn oak trees huh?


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/pullingroofdent2.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/ole%20yeller/car%20stuff/pullingroofdent.jpg

oh & hey, I was wrong earlier when I stated that I used the backing patch method on that cracked area by the door sill. After looking at the pictures I relived it a little in my head. I sort of rib or bridge welded the crack from the back side, perpendicular to the crack & ran welds bridging the crack hopefully adding some strength from the inside before stitching a little bead on the outside corner edge & grinding it.