What is your favorite motor oil?

Sorry, I messed up with the poll option on the last post, here goes:

The last poll about favorite oil filters got me to thinking what is everyone's favorite motor oil and why? Do you put different oil in different engine types?

#1 Valvoline
#2 Castrol
#3 Quaker State
#4 Royal Purple
#5 Mobil
#6 Penzoil
#7 Other

Valvoline Racing. The one that says for off rod use only.

Mobil 1 has been a staple in my garage, NOLY once a fresh motor is broken in with Valvoline Racing oil or 15W40 Shell Rotella T.

This one1


http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/racingoils.html

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.html

depending on the composition of the engine materials and clearances I use one of these.

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/engineoils.html

I voted for other as in Shell Rotella. I used to use Valvoline but since they have taken the zinc and other additives out of all the other motor oils I have switched to Rotella. I have heard that they are going to also remove it from the Rotella as well, so I will then probably go back to Valvoline and use an additive.

I think the Valvoline Racing oil still has the zinc etc in it

I think the Valvoline Racing oil still has the zinc etc in it

yes you have to get racing fomula but it's only recomended for like 500 to 1000 miles so just for break in on a street motor

I only use Brad penn oil 1500 PPM of Zinc!!!

I've used Castrol forever and a day and will continue useing syntec blend in my '05 Ram. When the 340 in my '68 gets a rebuild i'll only use Royal Purple in it.

Walmart. No, seriuosly. After they came out with the CI-4 rating for diesel oil, which removed a good portion of the zinc, I began to find it difficult to find Rotella T with the old CJ-4 rating. For awhile, stores carried both, but slowly phased out the better (older) of the two. The writers of the Turbo Diesel Register were curious as to the differences between all of the available oils as they all claimed to be superior. What they did was send 15 or so samples of different oils out to be analyzed, but did not name them, so the person doing the final analysis could not slant the test in any way, due to personal preference. Interestingly enough, some of the cheaper oils fared better than the perceived better oils. In the case of the Walmart oil, whoever it is that makes the oil for them, did not switch to the newer formulation, therefore it has a higher zinc content than those (Rotella T, Penzoil, Delo etc.) that did. So yes, I use Walmart diesel oil in my vehicles and quick hide the jugs after an oil change lest any of my friends see them in the trash. :mob:

Valvoline

I've used Pennzoil for years with good results, but now that they have gone with the new API rating of SM which means the zinc has been removed, I will need some other oil to keep my 440's flat tappet camshaft and lifters alive and well.

I'd really like to try the Brad Penn oil, but I'm having no luck finding out who sells it here in Phoenix AZ. I guess that I will check out their web site listed above to find out.

Richard

I've used Pennzoil for years with good results, but now that they have gone with the new API rating of SM which means the zinc has been removed, I will need some other oil to keep my 440's flat tappet camshaft and lifters alive and well.

I'd really like to try the Brad Penn oil, but I'm having no luck finding out who sells it here in Phoenix AZ. I guess that I will check out their web site listed above to find out.

Richard


There is a distributor here in PA that ships Brad Penn to racers all over the lower 48.If you want I'll get the contact information.At least you could find cost to ship.

There is a distributor here in PA that ships Brad Penn to racers all over the lower 48.If you want I'll get the contact information.At least you could find cost to ship.

62MAX,

That would be great, thank you! :) My e-mail is thebankerstoy@cox.net

Richard

Valvoline. Been using it since the 70's and always worked good. Ron

I just read a post on the 62-65 Mopar site that said Castrol 20W50 is now formulated with higher zinc for collector car engines.

15W40! any kind manufacture.

Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 is good oil, has plenty of ZDDP in it. The Rotella T has gone down the tubes unless you put in some additive, I use GM EOS. Those conventional oils (Castrol, Pennzoil, etc, I use no more). I'm switching everything I have over to the Brad Penn oil come spring time. It's pricy at $5 per quart, but well worth it.

Something of interest here:

Click on the ZDDPlus Oil Additive

https://secure.mysuperpageshosting.com/kirbanperformance.com/index1.htm

Something of interest here:

Click on the ZDDPlus Oil Additive

https://secure.mysuperpageshosting.com/kirbanperformance.com/index1.htm


VERY interesting, has anybody tried it yet?

Richard

Eastwood sells that stuff

Eastwood sells that stuff

Eastwood sells very good products, so this oil additive must be pretty good if Eastwood offers it. A ZDDP additive is VERY important to me because I still run flat tappet cams in my Coronet and in my son's 72 Dart. I think I'll check this stuff out.

By the way, GM has brought back their EOS under part #88862586 in 16oz bottles. I've heard talk that it's not quite the same as the original formula, but you can check it out to make sure.

Richard

Brad Penn 20-50w

Dan

Brad Penn 20-50w

Dan

I am going with Dan on this one and also use the BP30 for break-ins (motors that is ... not residential). ;)

Not to take this off topic but has anyone used the RESTORE additive in their high mileage motors with any success? Any pros/cons?

Mobil 1 in the RR
Valvoline in the daily drivers

Brad Penn 20w - 50.

I've said it before and I'll say it again.There are now enough good oils availiable that you don't need to use additives.All you need to do is your homework.Also,be aware that whatever amount of additive you use you are diluting you're overall oil capacity by the percentage you add.It also changes the viscosity.If you have a 6qt oil capacity and use 20-50wt,substitute 1qt of additive you have diluted you oil by that percentage.No longer 20-50.Did you ever see a viscosity rating for additives?

All that is needed for an additive is one 4oz bottle of ZDDP per oil change. I doubt that will dilute your oil enough to reduce viscosity by any significant amount.

And yes, you really have to do your homework. I doubt that there are a dozen oils available that have enough ZDDP to really protect our flat tappet cams.

I have decided to switch to Amsoil Premium Protection and use their filters as well. It will cost less to use their oil and filter for 15,000 miles than practically any other alternative on the market

My cousin worked as an operating engineer at the Citgo refinery in Lake Charles LA, from about 82 to just recently, when they changed that plant from lubricants to fuel. He told me that the standard of the industry was Valvoline Racing Oil. If they could build their oil to that standard, they were happy. Still, I use some sort of cheap oil for break in, and then go to a synthetic. Shows I don't listen too well huh?

I have been using synthetics in our daily drivers and seem to be paying off. The oil in my Dakota was swapped to synthetic at 40,000 miles and now (many years later) as she has hit 110,000 miles and recieved a new timing chain she was spotless on the inside, no leaks and runs great. I suppose I have two questions here for those with experience, are synthetics a bad choice for our old big blocks, and why? Also for those in the know, my wifes 08 Avenger, I will break it in on Dino juice, but would like to swap it over asap to Castrol synthetic, what should the break in period be...I have been using Castrol's Syntec since 1999.

Good topic, Cheers

I just picked up a couple older cases of Mopar Performance SG rated racing oil for $1.50 a quart. :grin:

valvoline

I've ran Valvoline since 1980 without a hitch and engines are always spotless when i tear them down. Since they lowered the ZDDP levels in the regular oil I switched to their racing formula.

I always ran the rotella in my old turbo mustang.. Ran Valvoline VR1 in everything else.

Penzoil 50 racing with a bottle of Wynns 50 or 80 plus...I don't leave my oil in the engine for very long maybe two weekends worth of driving...as soon as it starts to turn color I drop it.
Synthetics are nice but for me they would be way too expensive for the way I change oil...

For the amount of changes you do Synthetics would be moot anyway:imho:.........

Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 is good oil, has plenty of ZDDP in it. The Rotella T has gone down the tubes unless you put in some additive, I use GM EOS. Those conventional oils (Castrol, Pennzoil, etc, I use no more). I'm switching everything I have over to the Brad Penn oil come spring time. It's pricy at $5 per quart, but well worth it.

Here is something you may be interested in.I took it upon myself to have an analysis done on the Brad Penn 20/50 racing oil.The results are what I had expected and why I am a firm believer it the product.As I said before,there are oils availiable that you don't need additives.

nothing like clean springs and valleys when you pull apart a motor that has always run valvoline. ive used restore in my smokers and it significantly cuts down blowby smoke. no use in rebuilding a hunting buggy thats getting 10 hours of use a year. so i just make it smoke less.

Here is something you may be interested in.I took it upon myself to have an analysis done on the Brad Penn 20/50 racing oil.The results are what I had expected and why I am a firm believer it the product.As I said before,there are oils availiable that you don't need additives.

I'd LOVE to try the Brad Penn oil, but here in Phoenix AZ, I can't seem to find a retailer for the damn stuff and I even tried to contact Brad Penn via their contact information on their web site and they never bothered to send me a return e-mail on how, or where, I could buy their product, so I'm looking elsewhere for an oil, or an additive that I can use to keep my 66 Coronet and my son's 72 Dart Swinger's flat tappet camshafts alive and well with enough ZDDP to make them happy. I change the oil in both of these cars every 3 months, regardless of mileage, so I don't want to have to buy my oil products on-line and have to wait for it to get here and also have to pay shipping costs on heavy boxes of oil.

Richard

Mobile 1 in my 07 Charger R/T
Valvoline 20W50 off road racing oil in my 69 440/4 speed Charger R/T And my small block 73 Charger SE

penzoil and lucas.....never failed and engines are always clean as a whistle......

I use the Rotella in my performance cars.
Mobil 1 in my new stuff...the 4 runner.

Over the years I used Valvoline, Havoline, Chevron regular and DELO and since the new SM rating I switched to Swepco http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/products/h306.htm

Their gear oil is the only thing that will keep a Porsche 911 transaxle alive according to people who race them http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/products/h201.htm I had it in my Durango for 60K miles.

valvoline 20/50 racing fomula

I'd LOVE to try the Brad Penn oil, but here in Phoenix AZ, I can't seem to find a retailer for the damn stuff and I even tried to contact Brad Penn via their contact information on their web site and they never bothered to send me a return e-mail on how, or where, I could buy their product, so I'm looking elsewhere for an oil, or an additive that I can use to keep my 66 Coronet and my son's 72 Dart Swinger's flat tappet camshafts alive and well with enough ZDDP to make them happy. I change the oil in both of these cars every 3 months, regardless of mileage, so I don't want to have to buy my oil products on-line and have to wait for it to get here and also have to pay shipping costs on heavy boxes of oil.

Richard

I have also tried to contact them and gotten No Reply.

I have also tried to contact them and gotten No Reply.

Yep, I guess that they are doing so well, they don't need our business huh? :(

Richard

Mopars Collectors Guide has about 30 ads promoting a new muscle car oil called Z-ALT. You can find more info at Z-ALT.com

Hi have heard Great reviews on Royal Purple but have never tried it, and it has gained enough popularity it is widely fount in most auto parts stores.

i run r/p in my bike

Mopars Collectors Guide has about 30 ads promoting a new muscle car oil called Z-ALT. You can find more info at Z-ALT.com

Anybody here had any experience with Z-ALT ?

This reminds me of the debates on the vintage snowmobile sites regarding Klotz/AMSoil/Castrol/whatever. At least you guys here are civil about it.

I've used Valvoline almost exclusively since 1972,running Max-Life in my '02 GMC truck(135,000+ miles) and the GF's '96 Park Avenue(120,000+ miles) with no problems except for some accelerated usage on the truck. The beater '90 Chevy truck has an ATK rebuild mill in it;used regular All-Climate to break it in(a couple of years ago;that oil may still have had some zinc in it) and am running Syn-Power in it now. Looks like I had better get a zinc additive in there as well,since it's a flat tappet mill. I'd better check the gf's Buick;some v-6's had flats,and some had roller lifters,and it's been awhile since I've worked with them so I may have lost the brain cells that remember when that transition took place...
When I got the Sport Fury home,first thing I did was change the oil in the 413 to 20W-50 VR1(10W-40 wasn't available,which I would have preferred for trying to start it in the winter while working on it);I didn't notice any mention of "off-road usage" on the container. Better check that as well...

This is a good thread,I hope it stays alive;lots of good info so far,and I'm sure more to come.

This reminds me of the debates on the vintage snowmobile sites regarding Klotz/AMSoil/Castrol/whatever. At least you guys here are civil about it.

I've used Valvoline almost exclusively since 1972,running Max-Life in my '02 GMC truck(135,000+ miles) and the GF's '96 Park Avenue(120,000+ miles) with no problems except for some accelerated usage on the truck. The beater '90 Chevy truck has an ATK rebuild mill in it;used regular All-Climate to break it in(a couple of years ago;that oil may still have had some zinc in it) and am running Syn-Power in it now. Looks like I had better get a zinc additive in there as well,since it's a flat tappet mill. I'd better check the gf's Buick;some v-6's had flats,and some had roller lifters,and it's been awhile since I've worked with them so I may have lost the brain cells that remember when that transition took place...
When I got the Sport Fury home,first thing I did was change the oil in the 413 to 20W-50 VR1(10W-40 wasn't available,which I would have preferred for trying to start it in the winter while working on it);I didn't notice any mention of "off-road usage" on the container. Better check that as well...

This is a good thread,I hope it stays alive;lots of good info so far,and I'm sure more to come.

The crowd here is pretty civil, :yes_no:You know the old saying about opinions, There like Assholes, Everybody has got one and everybody elses stinks. but for the most part, the folks here play really well together, and I'm a big fan of that.

It's O.K. to disagree respectfully, Especially on stuff like oil,filters and tires, but We do all agree on Muscle Mopar being some of the Greatest cars ever built regardless of year or model.

I have been thinking about trying this oil.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Default.aspx

20/50 Castrol GTX for the last 517000 miles

What happened, there wasnt "fram" listed in there lol. I know I know, fram is probably too restrictive. I have one on my BII and ill be changing it once my oil change is due in about a month. I usually use Mobile1 filters and royal purple oil... that stuff brought a great shine to my super dirt burnt oil coated rocker arms on my small block fords.

Kendall:grin: Oh its not a choice:sad:

On my Coronet I used Castrol 10/30 and lucas with a Purolator Pure One filter. On the rest of my cars it is Castrol 10/30 or 20/50 with the pure one filter.

Looks like "Other" and "Valvoline" are running neck and neck! Maybe there should be some "Others" added to the poll. :grin:

I have owned several motorcycles in the past and have known lots of people who owned and if you want to see the differences in motor oils just try different ones in these sensitive engines. I have quieted down noisy primary chains, overhead valve chains and rockers, to mine and many others just by changing the oil that was being used.

I also have done my own experimenting on gunky crudy automobile engines also. Like the time I took the oil cap off of my wifes car to add a quart and noticed white foamy gunk hanging from it. looking into the valve cover, also white gunk and crud. Her father always insisted on changing her oil. "Quakerstate" I took it apon myself to change it this time and by the end of the week the white foam and gunk was gone!

A friend of mine runs a "SuperComp" alcohol dragster. Crankcase always full of condensation from the Alki, showing premature bearing wear, noisy valve train, ect. Switched oil, problem solved.

In each and every one of these cases and countless others the oil that I used was "Kendall" :cheers2:

Kendall:grin: Oh its not a choice:sad:

thats my first choice but now that I know brad pen is kendell well I gess it will be brad pen..:yes:

thats my first choice but now that I know brad pen is kendell well I gess it will be brad pen..:yes:

I know Kendall dosen't have the ash and zinc that it use to and is less than Valvoline. Wouldn't mind trying Brad Penn.:sixpack:

Hey lets include Brad Penn in the "Poll" Looks like a front runner the way everyone is talking:yes:

Valvoline for the last 34 years. No reason to change

Valvoline for the last 34 years. No reason to change

:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: :yes::yes::yes::yes:

Penzoil...The jug is so perdy :)

Amsoil 10-40 in the 440. Used Royal Purple for years with no problem.

Used Mobil 1 in our 2000 Durango for awhile but we short tirp it so much that the oil got too dirty to leave it in for very long and that's one of the reasons to use syn oils. It's too expensive if you have to change it every 3 or 4000 miles. My plan was to change the filter every 3k miles and top it off and keep an eye on it. If you do sample testing, the oil is still good but becomes full of contaminates and that's the main reason for changing it and how long does syn oils last? If they didn't get dirty, well, very long time. Highway driving is the best thing for your oil (vehicle too) and it stays very clean for an extended amount of time. Even my diesel stays clean for a long time on the highway but stop and go/short trips put a lot of combustion by products into the oil and pretty quickly. Even natural based oils will last a long time with highway driving. Today's oils are pretty good (if you don't flat tappet cam) and your engine will last a long time with either type of oil. Anyways, I'm using Shell Rotella in everything now.....

I use Wal-Mart too. 108 changes in my '92 jeep. Finally gave it away, it was still fine. 98 changes in my '01 Town and Country. Getting tired of it and am ready to give it away too. Untold number of changes in my '87 GMC cargo van. May never need to buy another if it keeps running. 34 changes in my '06 Cobalt, still going strong. Doing it myself with Wal-Mart probably saved enough for two or three new engines. I trade the used oil for tire mounts and stuff I can't do in shop. Don't know if I would use it for all out racing though I would try a pass or two and send the used oil in to be tested, like I do at every oil change for my Detroit 60.

Bought my 95 dodge Ram 5.2, FWD in 96 with 7k on it. Used Mobile One. Ran it 10K between changes. I'd throw a new Fram filter in it at every 5k, if I remembered. It now has 246,000 and runs strong, but starting to use oil. Can see it if driving behind when I let off the gas. Valve guides/seals? So, got about a quarter of a million miles on a 10,000 mile oil change schedule.

Shell Rotella. I buy the CJ-4 rating at a farm & tractor supply.

Kendall:grin: Oh its not a choice:sad:

It's now Brad Penn.

Brad Penn!

The castrol 20-50 syntec has on the bottle for 1975 and older engines (right about the last years for no cats) Just looked at Autozone and they have it $7.99 a quart. Castrol web site said that Wal-mart and K-mart will also carry it.

This Note is for the BANKERSTOY, Bradpenn is not well represented in the west. The SEMA show in Vegas will be here in the next few weeks, They were there last year and if they show up this year I will let them know about the complaints.I know they were looking for distributors.Now don't quote me on this but I think to be a distributor you must buy 1 pallett that may be 60 cases. I'm sure I'm wrong.

Valvoline VR1 10-30 in the Charger, Mobile 1 in the the wife's ride. My company truck gets Napa full synthetic.

Mobil One in the R/T and Valvoline Premium Blue in the 70 300/

Ran across this site and forum when getting smart on the formula changes: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Oh, and I primarily use Valvoline, but have been known to grab Castrol too. I keep a couple quarts of Royal Purple on the shelf for topping off in the '68.

Shell Rotella. I buy the CJ-4 rating at a farm & tractor supply.Why the CJ-4 and not the CI-4+. I buy it by the pail at an oil supply house....

Just some info.......Found out at the SEMA show that the closest distributor in the west is in Colorado. Contact Norm Fisher at nfisher@hillpet.com You can buy any amount at a wholesale discount. This what I was told from the owner.
Also anyone that wants to be a distributor in the west, you do not have to buy a large amount and they are willing to work with anyone interested.
For more info try www.bradpennracing.com

Mobil 1 for the past 20+ years. I run it in everything, even my John Deere riding mower. Before that it was Dino Castrol. I went to Mobil 1 after reading a report of a test that was conducted in the late 80's-early 90's. In the test, if I can remember correctly, there were a number of American made vehicles and Foreign made vehicles used. Half of each make were run with top of the line dino oil and the other half with Mobil 1. The test simulated city and highway drving and all were run until 200k miles. The oil and filters were changed every 5 or 10k miles. All engines were removed and taken apart. The parts in the engines ran with Mobil 1 had tollerances within new part specs. I think that's the just of it. I know it impressed the heck out of me, as I carry mail on a rural route and drive approx. 125 miles per day including around 30 miles of dirt road. I run the fresh oil and filter for 5000 miles, change the filter, top off the oil, and run another 5000 miles, and change oil and filter. Never have had an engine problem.
Just a personal experience.
cwmoss

Castrol GTX- non synthetic all the way

Blonde, brunette, or redhead. Boobs, legs, or ass. These are questions and opinions that will never be answered! In my days growin-up, 100k was the limit! But now its barely broken in! I have to say that the most important thing giving long-life to motors these days is fuel-injection. Gone are the days of "cylinder-washdown" with fuel. Precisely metered FI eliminates excessive richness [less oil contamination]. More precisely burned fuel equals less combustion by-products that are corrosive to engine internals. All the commercial oils have reached a point where I dont think you can really go wrong with any of the premium brands. As far as the demands of true racing motors, that is beyond my knowledge, and I wont even try to offer an opinion there.

Castrol GTX

valvoline 20/50 vr1 is the only oil to use in any performance engine .

Brad Penn 20w50

valvoline conventional with a wix filter is what I run in anything that I care about

Well, this thread has been around a while. One thing I did notice is that not one person wrote that "so and so oil is garbage and it ruined my engine" What I gather from this whole thread is that if you change oil like you are supposed to, then you will have no problems. Some of you are using multiple oils on different applications. Really?? are engines THAT different? aren't all engine oils supposed to lubricate and cool. How can there be so many good results among so many different brands. Is it possible that they are all relatively the same. Just like gasoline. Here in the UP of Michigan, ALL our gasoline comes from Green Bay. (at least the western half) Same trucks deliver the same gas to "different" vendors. BP, Citco, shell and others claim to have the BEST gas. It all comes from the same refinery. I'm guessing that the same goes for any name brand oil. My only concern would now be using the right viscosity for the right climate. I guess there could be a discussion about dino oil and synthetic, but after only 3000 miles or less as I am reading, I'm sure it really doesn't make a difference.

One note. I recently had the truck oil changed at the quicky lube ( I was out of town) and the girl asked me if I wanted the "green" oil. I thought she was talking about the actual color. She was asking if I wanted oil that consisted of X percentage of recycled oil in it. I told her no thanks and she said that this was the upcoming thing, that ALL oil would soon have a percentage of recycled oil in it. Just thought I would pass that on.

Shell Rotella 15w40

Whatever is on sale at Walmart or Pep Boys. If it's the right grade and has the little API star on it I'll use it.

Most motorcycle oils cpontain high levels of ZDDP.

I use Castrol 4T Motorcycle Oil in all my old cars and bikes.

It is API rated SH, SG.

$4.43 a quart at O'Reilly's.

Castrol's 4T oil, (and Grand Prix oil, which is the SAME OIL) in either grade 10W40 or 20W50, as appropriate to your climate, is SG rated and formulated. Zinc component is 1100ppm; Calcium component is 1900 ppm; and Phosphorus component is 1000 ppm.

There alot of oils with old time zinc & phosphorus levels. This is the one I use.

Rag

For racing engines I use Torco Racing Oil ONLY, for my streetcars & daily drivers Royal Purple synthetics, trans, engine & rear end

The last time i changed my oil i used Castrol GTX... In my wifes car (which takes a beating) and in my Satty, the Satty still even looks good, not to many terrible miles on it but im intending on using it again.

Mobile 1 in everything from the wifes 4banger to the hemi!

GULF SL ZINC PLUS 20W50

http://kuva1.kuvablogi.com/iso/img3155810.jpg

valvoline racing has zinc

Brad Penn Racing Oil - used to be Kendall GT and has the highest concentration of zinc I could find in an oil.

S

gibbs hr-4 oil

ams oil.
i use to use the valvoline vr1 but it just went up $2.00 a quart to 5.69 a quart.

Still Brad Penn for me!