oxytousc 05-19-2010, 10:19 PM Hey guys...got some suspension questions. First project on my 73 Satellite/Roadrunner clone is rebuilding the front end, it's toast (includes k-member replacement). My question is, I am planning on this car being a daily driver, putting down between 450-550 hp and I want to make sure that when I start the rebuild I build a suspension that will be responsive. Can I get some guidance?
My general thoughts are PST Polygraphite Super kit for the front and rear bushings. Planning to fit the largest sway bars I can find to the front and rear.
I need guidance on the following:
* Shocks?
* Solid (aluminum) v. Poly K-member body mount bushings?
* Leaf springs?
* Torsion bars?
Again, this is going to be a daily driver, but want to be able to take it to the track if the urge strikes...any recos are appreciated.
wookie77 05-20-2010, 02:06 PM Hey there. I can say from my experience that the PST Polygraphite kit does wonders for the ride. I did front and rear on my Coronet and I love it! I also went with the PST big block road race torsion bars and Anti-sway bar set... It honsetly feels like my '84 Vette used to... I went with KYB Shocks and Mopar leaf springs. Nothing fancy with those but the whole package is like night and day! Hope that helps. Haven't done anything with the K-member yet. If my car wasn't down for my rebuild I'd cruise by and let you drive it to see the difference since you are only 30 minutes or so away.
oxytousc 05-20-2010, 02:12 PM Thanks, wookie, definite help...yeah this is my first mopar project, so I'm still learning a lot.
In terms of shocks, I'm also looking at the Koni drag shocks, but am having a hard time making a decision...
Since you're local, any good recommendations on mopar parts stores/junk yards in the area?
wookie77 05-20-2010, 02:26 PM Ummm Not really...LOL
I like to go to Ecology Auto wrecking in Rialto. Right now they have 2 '63 Dart GT's and they go through inventory quickly.(unfortunately) I wish I had way more room and money. Pricing is good... There is also Mopar Flats in Phelan in the high desert, a guy named Darryl runs that place. He has parts but is pricey and hard to get a hold of. There is also veteran MoPar racer Bob Mazzolini in Riverside. He is a nice guy, full of real world info and has a small shop with quite a bit of inventory. I just recently discovered Wildcat Mopars in Oregon. I know they are not SoCal but they have 900 cars in their yard! Hope that helps.
oxytousc 05-20-2010, 02:44 PM Thanks. Yeah I spoke with Darryl a few weeks back about a k-member, he wanted like $250. Ended up going to Sweetwater Auto Wrecking in San Diego...Mark there had great prices and was super helpful...well worth the drive! I got a k-member, spindles and seat belts for what Darryl wanted just for the k.
wookie77 05-20-2010, 03:08 PM Ok that's cool. Oh there is also a place in Ontario called Bill and Ed's. They are a Mopar only yard. I got my front disc brake conversion from them a few years back. I am still searching out places to get parts from.
And in response to your " Thanks" You are very welcome. Anything I can do to try and help a fellow MoPar owner.
oxytousc 05-20-2010, 03:10 PM How thick are the torsion bars you picked up? Did you like the PST ones better than the Mopar ones?
wookie77 05-20-2010, 03:27 PM Well I bought them about 6 years ago and I beleive they were just over 1". I think they were just under the heaviest ones they offered. I can Mic them tonight when I get home from work. I have not used the Mopar Performance ones though so I can only compare them to the factory ones. Between those and the anti sway bars... The car feels like it's on rails. Almost no body roll in corners and the steering seems WAY more crisp as a result.
oxytousc 05-20-2010, 03:29 PM Nice! I am thinking I just go as thick as possible...
Revhendo 05-20-2010, 09:47 PM OK, with the Koni drag shocks, I gotta ask what your driving style is gonna be. Corner carving or straight line killer? Me, I am going with the parking lot Zamboni/Nascar style. I went with solid K bushings but am thinking that I am going to keep the control arm bushings in rubber. At least on the lower arms, I am not to thrilled with the hold that polys have on the shafts.
oxytousc 05-21-2010, 10:10 AM Rev. my driving style is really a mixture of both...in looking at the Koni's again, I am guessing drag shocks are going to be WAY too stiff. Yes? What shocks do you recommend? Have you tried the KYB's that Wookie recommends?
I am a reformed Ford guy, where there were a ton more shock options, so any suggestions are much appreciated.
I was thinking of doing poly k-mounts and poly bushings all the way around...do you think that I should go with the solid k-mounts on a daily driver?
oxytousc 05-21-2010, 05:27 PM Also, do you think front adjustable shocks are the way to go? I can only seem to find the KYB Gas-a-just's for the rear...
oxytousc 05-21-2010, 05:31 PM Nevermind, disregard my previous post...I was being stupid...still looking for shock recommendations though...
74sundance 05-21-2010, 05:53 PM I went to summit and got everything in polyurethane but have yet to try it out.The only problem I had was with the strut rod bushings they are to small I think they are for a 196?'s Satellite but they say they are the rite part.???Check it out....
14829
14830
oxytousc 05-21-2010, 06:27 PM Nice! All the energy suspension stuff?
74sundance 05-21-2010, 07:11 PM Oh yes,I should have said that :)
Revhendo 05-22-2010, 10:44 PM I'm using KYB's (GR2's?) on the nose. I have a pair of Monroe truck shocks on the rear. My reluctance to use poly's on the LCA's has to do with the experiences I am having with my Valiant and the arms shifting on the poly bushings.
72 Charger SE 05-23-2010, 11:46 AM [QUOTE=oxytousc;67941]Rev. my driving style is really a mixture of both...in looking at the Koni's again, I am guessing drag shocks are going to be WAY too stiff. Yes? What shocks do you recommend? QUOTE]
I don't think you will want drag shocks unless you are looking for 1/4 mile straight line driving. Front drag shocks are normally designed to allow the front end to come up fast, but go back down slower. This is to improve weight transfer for traction.
74sundance 05-23-2010, 05:28 PM KYB's GR2's..... That's what I have in mine also, but I still have not tried them.....
oxytousc 05-23-2010, 08:27 PM Alright, sound's like the KYBs it is!
oxytousc 05-24-2010, 04:02 PM Has anyone used the Prothane body mounts? I have read that they are considerably stiffer and more durable than the energy suspension mounts and was hoping someone had exp. with them.
72 Charger SE 05-24-2010, 09:44 PM Has anyone used the Prothane body mounts? I have read that they are considerably stiffer and more durable than the energy suspension mounts and was hoping someone had exp. with them.
:confused: What part are you referring to when you say "body mounts?" I don't know of any part by that name on a uni-body car...
oxytousc 05-25-2010, 09:27 AM :confused: What part are you referring to when you say "body mounts?" I don't know of any part by that name on a uni-body car...
The bushings between the k-member and the rest of the chassis. Here are the bushings I am looking at on summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-4-101-BL/
I've also been looking at the solid mounts, but am thinking they are too stiff for everyday driving...
oxytousc 05-25-2010, 09:47 AM Also, does anyone know, other than the sway bars, where there other major suspension differences between the 73 satellite and the 73 roadrunner?
Revhendo 05-25-2010, 08:08 PM Also, does anyone know, other than the sway bars, where there other major suspension differences between the 73 satellite and the 73 roadrunner?
Suspension-wise, just sway bars, stiffer T-bars and bigger leafs.
Revhendo 05-25-2010, 08:11 PM OH, and for the record, I don't think the solid K-member bushings are too hard for the street. Also, take into account that the K on 72 and earlier cars was bolted straight on to the front longitudinals....
boss vega v8 05-30-2010, 11:13 AM i used the Prothane subframe mounts, didnt feel like it was too hard of a ride...pluse the price was cheaper than Energy...still have the crossmember ones hanging around somewhere, just never installed them before i sold the car.
oxytousc 06-02-2010, 09:32 AM OH, and for the record, I don't think the solid K-member bushings are too hard for the street. Also, take into account that the K on 72 and earlier cars was bolted straight on to the front longitudinals....
Thanks. Let me ask this, do you think that the solid mounts are worth the extra $150/$200 vs. the poly mounts?
Revhendo 06-02-2010, 10:24 PM Oh that's a tuff one. I got mine a few years back over on A-bodies. Paid about a hundred for them. (If I remember right). I don't think I would pay 200 for them. Even though I love Firm Feels stuff and I actually really like dealing with them, I couldn't pull the trigger at their price. I am saving up for their sway bars, though.
scotts74birds 06-03-2010, 05:14 PM Got a friend that can use a lathe? Easy job for him! If you want a corner-carver, dont forget to figure the tires/rims into the equation. Those 235 and 275 series tires are really big balloons to ride on. We all want to fill up those HUGE Mopar wheel wells, but the flex of the sidewalls is a huge consideration. Filling up the hole with more rim, and less tire sidewall, is also a tuning tool.
Revhendo 06-03-2010, 07:50 PM That would be 255and275's, thank you very much. :rolling:
And so very true about the bigger wheels and tires with less sidewall. But that goes within reason also. You need to consider unsprung weight.
I probably won't go any bigger than an 18" wheel when I get to that point.
I won't need anything bigger to clear any brake upgrades in my future. To go any bigger on the wheels would be detrimental to overall performance IMO.
|