My Coronet project

Hi, as a new member here I will start my project with a short presentation of myself and the car.
After 12 years without a real car, (but with various European junk) the 40-year crisis struck with full power and I searched for a project. Found it in MD and two months later the car arrived to Sweden. The car is a 1970 Dodge Coronet 440 with a 383 and a 727, got a 8 3/4 with unknown gears. The seller was a real nice guy and I bought me a new interior and some other parts and he packed the car full before it was shipped.
The car war originally a 318 car, red with white vinyl top and with interior, since I´m not a resto guy or think that a 318 car are worth an original retoration I will build the car as I want it.
The plans today are Hemi orange paint, black vinyl top, black interior and centerline telstar 7*15 and 10*15. I dont really know what has been done to the engine but it is a -69 383 with a pair of older 516 heads, 68-70 HP exhaust, torker 383 intake and an Edelbrock 750. I mesured the cam on the liters and wiht a 1.5 ratio the lift would be 0.525", it is a hydraualic cam. That is pretty much all I know about the engine, the tranny is stock with stock converter.
The engine now runs great with new plugs so I will leave it that way for now, will spend my time with bodywork and some rustrepair.

Hope to get the help I need from you guys, I will keep you updated with photos!

Sweet!
And BTW Welcome.

Welcome, can't wait to watch the resto progress.

Welcome, and thanks for the car porn

That 70 Coronet front end looks sinister, and way too cool!!!

great car I love those and welcome

Howdy neighbour, lets meet on this webpage also:HappyNewYear:

Cool car and welcome aboard!!!

Welcome! "Build it as You want it"

Welcome to the site.
Best forum site to obtain information and advise I have been a part of. No non sence or internet bullies here.
Good luck on your Coronet.

welcome,exelent car

Looking forward to more pics and progress. I have a 70 Coronet that I haven't seen in years,now I'm thinking its time to dig it out. good luck.

Yeah, not too many 'purists' in here. No one will ever inspect my car(s) with a clipboard and mark me off for having something 'wrong'. I agree, build it the way YOU WANT TO!

It is time to start the resto "for real", I must replace the front framerail, right side and mayby the left side due to RUST:mad: It was something I knew when I bought the car and I have a pair of rust free (sure...):no: rails in the trunk but it still sucks...
And I will also replace the floorpans on both sides, 1/4 pans are also in the trunk.
My Q is where to start? My plan is to remove the front, fenders and engine with tranny but leave the k-member and take one side at a time, bolting the k-member into the new rail to get the position right before weldning. Does anyone have a description how to teardown the front suspension without loosin all the teeths, I have never messed with the torsionbars before...
And I will throw in some pictures...

grrrr, just wrote a long thread and posted it, where did it go, nobody know...

The question was where to start when I am replacing the front framerail, does anyone have some pictures how to remove the front suspension?

Take a guess why the car did´t run well before...

good luck with your project !

I have a near twin to your ride. Its Bronze metalic(originaly red) same set up. Except the 440 i dropped in her. But as far as the torsion bars. I love working on them. So much easier than coil springs and struts. All you need to do is unscrew the adjusters all the way down ( with the body suported with jack stands, not suspension) and use a torsion bar removal tool. Its basicaly a v-block drilled in four corners and bolted to a T plate. Just install towards the rear of the bar ( close to the crossmember, but leave about two or three inches) and smacker with a hammer till it pops out the back. Oh and make sure you take the clips out befor you go hammering. thats it.

Välkommen, nice car!

Thanks everybody, as I am trying to do all things in the sametime I took of the upholstry from the rear bench yesterday. It really smell old, (I would probably smelled the same way if I had never taken a shower for 40 y:))
Is it possible the wash the foam to get rid of the smell? I know that they make new ones but it is hard to find i Sweden and they are expensive as well, there is nothing else wrong with the foam so I will probably give it a shot with some mild cleaning agent today.
I also planned to put some new extra foam in the seat to make it a little softer, anyone tryed that?

Sounds like a good place to start as far as cleaning your seat foam, I have not personally tried adding foam to the bench seats, but I have also heard that can be done. What do you have for tools?, welder?, air tools?. Replacing a front frame rail is not easy to begin with and near impossible without the proper tools.

It worked great with a little soft soup in the water, it smells ok, we have about 71 F so it is a perfect day to do some cleaning, my wife wonder why I am not so enthusiastic when it comes to cleaning the house...

Took out the new upholsty and placed it in the sun, after five minutes it was steaming hot! Should be easy to pull over when it is so soft.

I will not do anything with the frame or springs, will give it 10 min with the spounge and new paint with a spraycan.

Will probably be ready in a cuople of days, had to wait for the company that sells foam to open and for the parts to dry out.

awesome project, one of my favorite years

Cool car Dude !

my wife wonder why I am not so enthusiastic when it comes to cleaning the house...

wonder over wonder :-)))))))

A little more pictures as I know you like them:)
New paint on the seatframe.
A pict of the engine too.
Found the paper under the seat. Would probably be more interested if it was a Hemi car...

As the seatfoam dried it was getting flat, I will buy a new one in a better material tomorrow, it will be easy to cut out now.

My rear bumber is not looking good but a new one is to expensive for me right now, it will cost me $700 plus 30% tax and toll so about $1000 here in Sweden!!!
I have planned to paint the old one in body color or satin black, the car will be hemi orange, what will look best? I also want at bumble bee stripe in black or mayby a super bee stripe that goes over the trunk. Will it be to much with a black bumper or will it look cool?

it is your car to make it look anyway you want. don't forget they also had the C-stripe for '70 super bees.

Thanks everybody, as I am trying to do all things in the sametime I took of the upholstry from the rear bench yesterday. It really smell old, (I would probably smelled the same way if I had never taken a shower for 40 y:))
Is it possible the wash the foam to get rid of the smell? I know that they make new ones but it is hard to find i Sweden and they are expensive as well, there is nothing else wrong with the foam so I will probably give it a shot with some mild cleaning agent today.
I also planned to put some new extra foam in the seat to make it a little softer, anyone tryed that?

Not yet but I think the best way to decrease the "old smell" is airing the foam for days/weeks. After that I would recommend to use some kind of neutralizer (in Germany a product called "Febreze" is often used).

Time to work with the car again.
I am waiting for the sun to heat up the seat cover so I can finish it today, the smell is gone! Got myself a real nice hog ring plier.

I pulled out the windshield and it did´t look to bad under, some rust but not so much as i expected, is it easy to remove the dashboard? It is the only thing left now...

I also got a new "padding" a plastic cover that will be glued over the old one, anyone has experience of that?

I have bought 4 pieces that looks like the one up at the sunvisors, how do they work?

The lower part of the backseat is ready! Looks absolutely amazing! And it was not difficult to do by your self either but it would have helpt with a pair of extra hands sometimes. I did put in an extra inch of foam so it was a little tight but it fills up and feels great to sit on, will take the backrest now!

it usually not that hard to take out the dash,just start underneath first so the top bolts hold it in place for you.the windshield channel doesn't look that bad,but you will have to see once you strip the paint and rust off.

YES! My mother in law came by and will stay for a while and help me with the kids so it will give me time to pull out the engine and trans, got 8 weeks of vacation coming up in two days:grin:, will start replacing the front framerails and the floorpans, I just hate to do rust repairs:mad: Hopefully the rust is repaired within a month so I can start to prepare the car for paint after that.

Engine and tranny in out and the engine looks great! Can´t remember they where so big and heavy;-) Or is it me getting weaker... Asked my wife if I could have it in the living room during the winter if I paint it and she said NO :sad:

The tranny had a grey "klegg" in the bottom of the pan, will probably do an overhaulin of it.

Cleaned of the enginebay and will start to take apart the fenders and rest of the front today.

Three hours later the fenders and rest of the front where taken apart, the left fender was pretty rusty so I will buy a new one, have found one in Sweden but will look at the ads here to.

Took one of the fenders and placed it with my wifes Opel (Saturn) and it is BIG!

Anyone knows if the "splashshield" in the back of the inside of the fender is availble new, it is the piece that dirt to reach the doorhinges if you know what I am trying to describe... You can se on the passenger side that a piece is missing.

I like the Ikea engine stand. ;-)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1435025&parttype=823&a=FRc1435025k2377760-5056420

Try them.

Three hours later the fenders and rest of the front where taken apart, the left fender was pretty rusty so I will buy a new one, have found one in Sweden but will look at the ads here to.

Took one of the fenders and placed it with my wifes Opel (Saturn) and it is BIG!

Anyone knows if the "splashshield" in the back of the inside of the fender is availble new, it is the piece that dirt to reach the doorhinges if you know what I am trying to describe... You can se on the passenger side that a piece is missing.
that would make a nice superbird fender :rolling::rolling::rolling:

Coming along well I see, make good use of that vacation time.

Nice work Brother !

go forwards !

Greetings from Germany :-)

Back in town after a 10 days holiday with the family, ran into some MoParts too! Found a left fender in very nice condition and a left vent window, also 4 wheel opening mouldings so it was a nice holiday! My wife did not like to drive around with the fender on the roof but who cares...

I also found some nice replacement for the sealed beam crap, clear glass type that looks like the old Lucas tripod.

Will start the big work and replace the front frames tomorrow, it is the worse job I have ever done on an american car so lets hope I will get it together again...

I'm amazed you could find a 70 Coronet fender in Sweden! If I ever need a fender for my 68 1/2, it will have to come from the states, zero chance of finding one.

You're very lucky!

Got some work done this afternoon, to be continued...

Keep on sending the pictures over. :woohoo: Great build. :) Just do not send the lutfisk over though.:grin: Can not say I am much of a fan of that delicacy:rolling:

Almost ready with the right side, that was the easy side... Will start with the left side today.
Should have ordered the fullsize floorpan :mad:, had to replace a bit over the rear bracket. The rear bracket was also crap so I mad a new one.
I envy you guys who lives on the right side of the atlantic ocean, 4 bracket are like $ 120 but for me it is $ 240 due to taxes and freightcost, and it takes a couple of weeks to get them. :mad:

Nice work! keep the pics coming, very impressive my friend.

Cruising right along hey! Keep the momentum rolling brother!

definetly one heck of a job:yes::yes:

Yes! My wife went to work this morning and I still have three weeks left of my holiday, guess what I am doing????

Spending my day with a "camber" bolt that was stuck, than the k-member bolt rotaded inside the frame so I had to cut it up to get it loose but finally it is ready to tryout the new frame rail. Found a rat nest inside the frame too!

If I can stay to the plan it will be ready to grind and put on some primer this weekend, I will probably take off all the undercoating and paint it, I will never drive in wet or salted roads again so it will do good with epoxi primer and 2 k paint.

And it is getting time do finally decide the color, my plan has always been Hemi orange but I am looking at white too, it would look great with a black vinyltop. The only reason I don´t go with a metalic color is that I am painting the car apart, paining is extemely expensive here, $ 3-4000!!! If I do it myselt it will stop under $1000.

P.S
Do you find the sign as fun as I do?

you guys use euros over there dont you? if so isnt a euro around 1.50 U.S. if thats right thats about what painting costs around here. granted there are guys that run little back woods shop that will charge you less and then we also have the super restorers $60,000 to restore your car (i personally think thats rediculous) its all a matter of who you trust and what level of perfection you desire.

Sweden is not into the Euro we still have our krona:yes:
US $ Euro is now 1.31
Sven

Nice job on your Coronet! I cant believe how easy you lake it look! Your dedication to your Mopar is admirable, I bet its a big deal to cruise your Mopar around town in Sweden. Congrats on a great purchase and great car!

looks like you're moving right along with it.

Had to lay down production due to visitors from out of town :mad:, almost done with the rust repairs:), both framerails are now in place and I only have to weld the floor on the drivers side, ran out of gas to the MIG but have a new bottle now, my Kemppi weld runs like a dream!
Will try to get the primer and topcoat on the floor next week, will grind of all old paint first, painting it black instead of body color, don´t want any body color to shine thru my black interior.
If I had knew how bad the left innerfender was I had bought a new one but the delivery time is to long for me to wait. But all the rust is now gone...
Thanks for all feedback, it helps to get me motivated! This is a great site!

wow!The new floor looks good,was it hard to do,cause i'll have to do the same on my project?

Roger, the floor it self was not hard to replace as long there´s some steel left to weld it to, I was lucky and the rocker panels and the firewall was OK, the trick is to clean up from paint and rust. A good "spot weld drill" and a wire brush ( I use the 3M scotch brite) is half the job. If you buy two halfes of the floor you will keep the centerpiece, be careful not to remove to much of the center before you have removed the bottom of the floor, otherwise you can end up with a 1/2 inch gap when the floorpiece sits on the framerail. Better to cut two times instead... I put my floor with a overlap of 1/4 inch to the existing floor and welded it from both sides, it works on the floor. Two of my brackets to the seat was to rusty so I made a new pair, no original part but they do the work, this is not a $ 50 000 resto :)

Good Luck!

good to know,thanks.I'm not looking for an OEM resto,i just want to get it to looking nice and driving it.

Lookin good Swede, don't let those pesky visitors slow you down, strike while the iron is hot!!!.

Finally home again after spending some days in Denmark, weather was ok this morning so I rolled out from the garage and took a wire brush and a small sand blaster and cleaned up the engine compartment. Getting closer to get some paint in it now, if the weather stays good tomorrow I will probably put on some epoxi primer before it is rusty again ;-)

looks good,you can't even tell where you took the old off and put on the new.

Yes! Put some primer on the floor, I know I should have waited and painted the engine compartment at the same time but I really needed to see some progress. Can take the engine compartment tomorrow;-)

Found a guy who can sandblast my doors, fenders, hood and trunklid. When I asked him of the price he said somewhere around $70-80!!! ( in swedish crowns of coarse) He will not blast all the areas due to he is afraid to bend the metal but he will take the edges, approx 4 inch in and insides of the doors et.c.

that looks REAL good. nice job.

I will have a black interior and wonder what color to paint inside of the door, the part that is white in this pictures, shall it be black even if the body color is for example hemi orange? Or shall it be body color? I have seen both types.
IF I paint the car white I would probably go for black doors and maybe paint the "chrome armrest bracket" white, they where nice 40 years ago but all the chrome is long gone, any other ideas?

My interior and exterior were both brown but different shades of brown. The inside of the doors were painted to match interior. I bought some new chrome arm rest brackets last year for less than $50.00 (U.S.)Hope this helps, good luck.

the door that you can see from inside the car should be the same color as the interior,but it's your car,maybe you want to think outside the box.

OK, thanks, it will be solid black.

Car's looking good Swede. I did the same thing with the arm rest bezels on the Coronet. Used a chrome paint from the local hardware store. They look dang near the same. I guess if it ever get's to the point where it bothers a fella, they are readily availible and for not that expensive of a price.

Left all the parts to the blastman yesterday, he will probably just be able to do the edges of it, he is afraid to destroy it otherwise, I will do the rest with the wire brusch and the 3M scotch brite. Will buy some paint today so I can finish the floor and innerfenders et.c.

Finally got some primer on.

Wow that looks great, you made quick work of that!.

getting that primer on there makes makes that light at the end of the tunnel alot closer.

Damn Swede you are the real man

Nice work!


greetings from Germany

Uli

Due to a conflict of interest I have to lay down the work with the car for 8 weeks :icon_frown:
My mother in law are moving to town and her new apartment is being painted so you can guess where the furniture ended up...
Will be back in business in a month or so!

Ohhh that sucks man!! Sorry to hear it! Looks like you now have a shop TV, plenty of chairs to set your parts/beers on and a nice oak curio cabinet to put your tools in...lol

Get her working on the car!!

Good point Aussie, she could get heaps done in 8 weeks.....it'd help cover the storage fees.

Good news! A guy will ship a 40 feet container from US to Sweden in a couple of weeks and for a few bucks he will do some shopping for me, I will buy all the heavy parts I need to finish the project, right quarter panel skin, new converter (sugestions?), 4.10 gears and some small parts from AMD.

Excellent work on the car. I was born not to far from you in Skien, Norway

Hello Swede,I have owned my 70 for 30yrs and it has gone through many changes.Currently it is in surgery to become a Pro Street style car with stock black interior,hi backs and console.I have a picture of an orange one with body colour bumpers front and rear that looks good.Personally I like chrome but my one son is trying to talk me into paint as the rear is not to shiny.I have seen lots of 68+69s not to many 70s so enjoy.It's been a very long time since I've driven mine so I'm jealous.Don't forget your suspension as there is lots of good stuff out there for our cars. P.M. me any time.

It has been some weeks now since I updated this thread, the winter came early this year so some of the plans has to wait until spring, BUT Santa was also early, got myself some nice parts. Found a nice almost rustfree front fender, trunklid, two wheel houses and an rear bumper here in Sweden. Then I spended some time on ebay and bought a new 3,55 gear with all the other parts, bearings, shims, suregrip discs etc. I also bought a new dress up bolt kit for the engine, alu. waterpump house, sparkplugs wires, fluid damper, plugs etc. Painted the engine a couple of weeks ago, starting to look good now. I have also decided what color to paint the car, you can see it on the challenger, it is an european color that looks really nice, a little more red then the V2 i think.

I have looked inside the engine now and this is what I found:

Crane Cam Part # 643801- Max Velocity Hydraulic cam- 278 duration intake 290 exhaust- .467 intake lift .494 exhaust- - good Mid Range Horsepower best RPM range 2200 to 5000 - valve float at 6500

Edelbrock performer (1407) 750, Torker 383 intake, 915 heads, unknown compression but fairly high on the compressiontest, looks like forged pistons with a dome if I look through the sparkplug hole. I can still see the cross pattern on the cylinder walls.
I also want to go with my HP exhaust manifold but will consider headders if it is needed. 2,5 " exhaust all the way.
This is the converter I have bought: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-24-25/
(I had a Hughes converter that I ran on the strip for 2 seasons and it worked great, GM 35 in a f-bird, 10.90 index, 10.14 with nos)
I also added a shiftkit from mancini to the rebuilt 727, they have changed some more parts since it was a 2 bbl 383 727.
Finally there is a 3,55 SG with 275/60/15 tyres.
I hope this makes a good combo, I am aware that the heads are not the best, I am also thinking about replacing the Torker 383, but if I continue I will soon end up with a new engine and this is what I got and I hope it will make a little more power than a stock 383, aiming for +350hp, how about that?
Remember the car has a bench and will be driven as a family cruiser for 95% of the time. But it would be nice to get under 14 sec on the 1/4 mile.... If not, there is some nice 472 hemis for $14 200 at Jegs! Just have to talk to you know who first...

Starting of 2011 with a new picture of the engine, got the exhaust blasted and painted, let´s see if they are looking as great after I have started the engine... Waiting for the gasket kit for the waterpump and it soon will be ready to put back in the car. If everything goes as planned I will paint the engine compartment in a week or two.
Bought an complete exhaust system with hangers and tips from a 68 Charger in town, he has bought a complete TTI with headders instead. I know the tips are not the right one for a coronet but they looks great and it works for me.
Got 90% of all the parts i need to finish the car, so now it is up to me, better go out there and start sanding.
Happy new year to all of you!

Lookin' good, Happy New Year to you as well, now get out there and turn some wrenches, I think that is how I am going to start my new year this morning.

Almost 3 months since I updated the thread, it has been a long winter and the only thing I have done is that I bought some more parts... Thanks Sven!
BUT now it is time to get some work done, will start today and throw out all junk from the garage, bicycles, lawnmovers etc. so I can prepare to paint the engine compartment when the spring arrives, it must be near now.
In two weeks I will send the 727 to the shop, after that most of the drive train will be ready to roll, too bad the rest of the car is not...

Way to go Swede! Looking forward to more updates now you are "on the job" again.
Cheers, David

Looks great

Got some work done, starting to remove the k-frame and torsionbars and it was in such a bad condition so I decided so do a total rebuild. Will order a complete front end kit and new torsionbars, already got a new disc brake kit.
One of the bushings was on it´s way out...

I have also started to paint the undercarrige, first with epoxi primer and now with a black epoxi top coat.
To be continued...

Awesome.

Another great afternoon in the garage!
Painted the steering box, blasted the lower control arms and the k-frame, notice the lack of sway bar fasteners but I will weld in a new one, also planning on boxing them.
Disasambled the front brakes just to get some bolts for the disc brake conversion, it is a real dirty job! Everything is covered in grease...
Sent an email to PST and asked for a quote for a new set of torsion bars and a front end kit, let´s see if they answer.
If the weather stays good and the boss stays away I will get some more done tomorrow.

Wow! Great work! Looking good Swede.

Looking great. Inspitational..... :D

After I cleaned up the lower control arm I noticed one of them had a big backlash, is it junk or is it OK?
I don´t think a new bushing will fix that.
The other one is much tighter.
Any ideas? Watch it in action here:
Movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyz-XH6QICs)

Looks about the same as mine that had 70K miles on them.

Found out that the only thing I had not teared apart yet was the steering column, so I disasamled it, gave it some fresh paint and some new grease, will try to buy the lower bearing (if I can find it in Sweden and perhaps a new steering wheel, found a 13,5" walnut wheel that I think will be great.

Looking good!!Have you thought about powder coating some things while EVERYTHING is apart??Are there any shops in your area that does powder coating??:munky2:

After I cleaned up the lower control arm I noticed one of them had a big backlash, is it junk or is it OK?
I don´t think a new bushing will fix that.
The other one is much tighter.
Any ideas?

Not sure, but I though I read that you were intending to box the control arms?
I wonder could you pinch the halfs together tighter with clamps before you weld on the plates?
That should tighten things up in most directions...although there is still some wear there I guess.

For my project I have 4 to choose from, but ALL mine are rusted SOLID!!! :(

Hey Swede, looking good. Those lower control arms are fine, when the weight of the car is on them that movement is taken up. The bushing goes inside the round part and the shaft inside that, your rubber one looks a bit crumbly. When you hear about boxing the LCA it keeps them from spreading during extreme driving, during normal driving the strut rod keeps everything in place and the arm moves up and down riding on the rubber bushing. When you box them do as Black63 says and squeeze them together then push out the shaft and replace the bushing inside. Did you get the steering, shifter issue sorted out?

nice too see you back and getting some work done on it.

HEMI-ITIS; I was planning to powder coat it but the companys that offers that sevice is such an a-holes when you bring small parts, they only want to do business with other companys. I painted it in the garage and it looks really nice, even got the glance back on the shiftlever with a little polish.

Coronet 500 and Black 63; thanks for the tips, I set them up in the wise and most of the back lash disapeared, will be great when I get the plates.
I also solved the steering and shifter problem, I adjusted the "cam" plate so it will not slide between reverse and drive without pulling the shifter gently towards you, I don´t know if it is the right thing to do but I want it that way.

AND, got some paint on the k-frame and some other parts, have not decided yet if I shold order the front end kit from PST or from Mancini racing, if I go for Mancini I can get a set of 0.960 torsion bar and some other stuff as well but I don´t know the quality of their bushings. Anyone?

Swede, Mancini offers Moog parts and you should not hesitate to order from them. They have been around for decades (Mancini has) and they don't sell any junk.

I also need a set 0.96 for my ride.

Incredible Job! Thanks for the detailed story and pics Swede. I really enjoyed reading it. I wish I had the tools and skills to do the work you do. That is a Bad Ride and will look sick when you're done! Keep up the great work!

Found some parts that I had forgot that I bought, a new restored set of lamps with new adjusters etc.
But the fun part is that I also had new H4 "Lucas tripod" 5 3/4 from "Biltema" (swedish crap...) And a set of xenonconversion from China, I put in the xenon lamp into the Tripod and it almost fitted right in, will just have to enlarge to hole in the bottom first.
I dont know if you think that this is like swearing in the church and I don´t care, it gives me a real great light and it looks cool too.

Found some parts that I had forgot that I bought, a new restored set of lamps with new adjusters etc.
But the fun part is that I also had new H4 "Lucas tripod" 5 3/4 from "Biltema" (swedish crap...) And a set of xenonconversion from China, I put in the xenon lamp into the Tripod and it almost fitted right in, will just have to enlarge to hole in the bottom first.
I dont know if you think that this is like swearing in the church and I don´t care, it gives me a real great light and it looks cool too.

Thats interesting! I didn't know you could upgrade a 5 3/4 light with those conversions.
I have a set of new 5 3/4" light housings that a friend GAVE me. (Picked up cheap at a yard sale and he never did use them himself)

Think I'll check out whats available locally in the way of HID conversions.

I'll be doing a lot of night time driving with my 63 and could use a bit extra light...my eyes aren't getting any younger! LOL

Time to celebrate, got some paint on the car! Looks pretty good for a garage paint, had to hang up plastic all around the car and it helped real goood. almost none paint in the rest of the garage. Saw the paint for the first time today, it looks just like I wanted it, like Hemi orange with a little bit on the red side. The front end kit will arrive next week, then it is back on its wheels again!

Wow...and another wow for your other project!
That is one sharp red...and the other project a "Locost"???

you've really gotten alot done in a short time,my hat's off to you.

Nice work Swede! The car is looking really nice.

Thanks!
Got some more work done this afternoon, fresh paint on the floor, thinking on some sound dampening under the carpet or is it a waste of time and money?
Have made the "box" plates for the lower contol arm as well, have to visit Sven some day and take the measures on the sway bar mounts.

And it is a "Locost" in the back, will probably be ready to hit the streets around 2027...

Nice work Man, I'd say if you are thinking about the sound/heat matting then you should do it.

She's lookin real good.

you're floor looks great,i hope mine turns out half that good.

just for a little heads up i dont know what your headlight conversion kit came with you need a relay setup to run halogen or any modern type of headlight. they use more current than the stock glass sealed bulbs do and you will quickly fry your headlight switch (at the least)

new system should have relay getting its power straight from the battery. headlight switch should be used to activate or dissactivate the relay

Morbidgoat: Those kits are 35 Watt, are´nt the seals beams 35 W too?
But it is better to be safe and install it with a relay like you say, in the H4 conversion kit there is a cabel kit and relays included and I will use the for the low beam at daytime and switch to full beam together with the other lamp at night. I will take some pictures and show the results but it will not be until after the summer.

I bought some bitumen/asphalts boards and left them in the sun for 10 minutes before attaching them to the floor, planning on put some inside the doors to, or maybe spray them inside with this: http://www.hagmans.se/produktinformation/produktblad/gb/11331.pdf

I bought some bitumen/asphalts boards and left them in the sun for 10 minutes before attaching them to the floor

Wait...

You have...

Sunshine?

WTF?

38 degrees here this morning, 60 is the highest we've seen so far this year and that was yesterday.

Today full sunshine and 72F yahh it will be a summer this year also.
Sven

Nice work on a great looking car!

Installed a SSBC brake booster, had to do some drilling and it is looking great now, had some trouble to find the fittings, 7/16-18 for 3/16 pipe was not easy to find...

I just bought my 70 coronet 440, needs trunk floor as well as floor boards replaced. Has a 318 in it but replacing with a 440 and oh here is a question for you did they ever put the 500 or rt taillight panel on a 440. My car doesn't say its a 440 or 500. Is there a vin code that would say? Thanks for the help.

Second letter in the VIN, H=440, P=500 and S= R/T
http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/VehicleInfoDecoding/MoparDecoding/MoparVINDecoding/MoparVIN19681974/tabid/329/Default.aspx

It has been a while since my last update, had to work on the house...
But I have started to install the front end, I have a minor problem with the brake assembly, is this one correct? (The two pieces of metal that holds the caliper in place.)

Hey Swede, looks like I'm not the only one that has had a little down time on the project. Glad your back at it! The caliper looks right to me, but I would let a few more chime in on this one. I think Propwash has been putting his front end together as well.

Thanks Matt, I looked at propwash pictures and it looks the same.

Thanks Matt, I looked at propwash pictures and it looks the same.

I was going to say, mine's set up just the same Swede...Looking great by the way. Keep up the good work!

I just put ssbc front discs on my car. your set up looks to be a bit better than mine (retaining clips) but from what I can see, it looks right. I know the parts are not labeled, just loose in a bag. I had never seen such a clip before and was surprised at the set up. Seemed a bit "hokey" like there could be a better solution. Although your clips look better thought out than the ones they gave me.

Got some work done today, front end is ready to roll, the only issue is the grease nipple on the tie rod that is close to the torsion bar on the pass side, lets see how it looks when the car is back on the wheels.
I also made new brake lines in copper nickel, found a bit of spiral core that I pulled over the pipes near the wheel house. Looks like original, just for fun.
AND I did not forget the seals on the torsion bars but it was a close one...

I have put a lot of time making sure all threads are cleared with a thread tap and I used a wire brush on all old bolts, than a little anti seize and the bolts run in by hand and you can get the right torque. It takes time but it is worth it, it is so fun working with fresh parts!

Next big project is the doors, I have them in 1000 pieces now and I am not sure they will look or work as the did before but I wrote down exactly how I dismantled them and it should be a good help.

And it is only 2 weeks of work left before my 7 weeks holiday, you might guess where I want to spend at least 3 of them..:glasses9:

R.I.P Big Man!

Sure does look great! Really coming along nice...Good luck with the doors.

your front end is looking good swede

Sure looks pretty!! Good work!

that's going to look good when it's done.

Doors totally stripped and all (almost) old paint has been blasted and wire brushed off. One door needed a lot of metalwork, it is much harder to pull out dents in this car if you compare to newer european crap, they are like beer cans. Found some rust in the lower corners on both doors but not so much as I expected. Will try to get som primer on today and mayby some top coat on the inside, I will wait with the topcoat on outside until I have installed the window etc. To be continued...

Nice stuff. Did you have the calipers painted to match the car? Nice idea & will be a nice detail.

Yes SGT, and it almost cost me my life, one caliper fell down in my head when I hang them up for painting, they are heavy! I hope they will look great with my American racing torq trust.

go Swede go Swede :-)

I hope next year we see us as Västeres

Swede, this car is looking very sweet! That Red just pops big time, looks really sharp!!!

Papst XX: Are you not coming this year? Let me know when, you will pass me on your way up.

A minor update, the wiper motor is ready, I dont know if it will work, but it looks nice! A before picture in the bottom.
Then both doors are blasted and primer is on, did a lead filler job for the first time and it was fun, can imagine how hard it must be on a vertical datail...
Also did some rust protection, the thick one is violet at first and when it is hardened it turns black! It will also dampen some sound and rattle.
Will start to fininsh the door tomorow with "some" bondo, it will probably take me a week...
I was thinking to hang the doors on the hinge for easy assembly and not to scratch the paint, is it a good idea or is it better to assemble them on the bench?

Nice work Swede! Keep it up!

3 speed wiper test‏

Bench testing procedure.

Test #1(Hi speed)

Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground.
Connect second jumper wire from battery positive to BROWN lead.
Motor should run hi speed continuously.

Test #2 (Lo speed)

Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground.
Connect jumper wire from GREEN wire to battery ground.
Join BROWN and RED wires together and connect a jumper wire from battery positive to them.
Motor should run at slower speed.

Test #3 (Park)

Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground.
Connect jumper lead from GREEN to BROWN wire.
Connect jumper wire from red wire to ground.
Connect jumper wire from Blue wire to battery positive.
Motor should reverse and park.

(Depending on where the motor had stopped the park feature may have a full rotation or very short rotation

Wiper motor works! Thanks Sven!!!

Your welcome.

Wiper motor looks great Swede...Mine looks as rough as yours before you restored it. How did you get those wires and wire insulation to look so fresh? I have the same problem with missing insulation as well as it being painted over black.

As far as the doors, I installed all the guts before I hung the door on. Made it a lot easier to maneuver around it and get the proper angles to fit my hands/arms inside the door to hook things up.

OK Prop, so I guess I have to protect the door with some bubble plastic and some stiff paper, I am doing the last touch on them now, it takes forever to get them at least 90 % perfect, 100 % is show quality... I will never reach so far.

The wiper motor is a sneaky resto, I had a heatgun that was broke and I had to take it apart because I always do that with most of my stuff... (And they never works again...)
Inside I found some nice cables with a "cloth or fabric" cover (not sure if it is the right word for it) that looks like the original one. I cut up the original black rubber clamps and pulled over the new cover on the bare cables, then some crimping sleeves and it was just like new. The aluminum house is blasted and I also sprayed it with some clear coat, the "golden" round house is just painted with a can I had, some kind of gold metalic. I also used some paint stripper on the big round plate, it was spraypainted with 1 k so it came of with no problems. Not 100% original but it works for me.

Outstanding!! Nothing like a little ingenuity to make it all come together..I think I got some old Radio Shack junk solder or heat gun laying around here somewhere.. Thanks for the tip!!

I hear you on the doors....Sure can suck up a lot of time for such little production. Good luck on the rest of the assembly of them. With the other types of major surgery you did on your car, doors should be a walk in the park for you.

Swede no nothing this year :-(

i thinks i can the frist fire up my ride in 6 weeks I hope :-)

Went on a trip to my folks and picked up the tranny I left to a guy nearby them a couple of months ago, it was a 727 from 383 2 bbl so he had to change some parts inside so it has the same spec as the hemi tranny (he says, he has built 4 trannys for me before and he is great), he also put in a shift kit and I put on some fresh paint and a decal just for the looks...
Got a new Hughes 24-25 converter and a deep pan from Mancini too, hopefully it will be ready to mount to the engine as soon as I bought some oil to the converter, is it a good idea to pour some oil in the new converter before assembly?

They say you should pre fill the converter before installing it but you don't have to, many have done it without, yes im guilty. Good thing to do in case something happens so they cant say you voided the warranty. Looks great! Good luck.

Back again after a week out of town, went to Svens house and Santa was early this year. Got my self a front sway bar and a new set of wheels and a lot of other parts.
I just had to try them on... Thanks again Sven for helping me with this!

love these cars!!

Looks great, hope we can do some cruising and racing next year.
Sven

Looks awesome Swede

Thanks Uli and all other! Got some more work done today, new paint and "bodycoating" on the undercarrige. Put the tranny to the engine and realised that my flexplate is wrong, a new one is on its way.
It is pretty neat to have it together on the floor, plenty of space to mount the kickdown and throttle cable and get it adjusted, also mounted new PCV valve and crankcase vent, got my new pulleys from a guy in CA (from ebay) and they are nice, but all this small parts takes a lot of time, sparkplug cables etc...

She's looking great buddy!!!! Getting close! Awesome wheel choice...

Damn! I thought I was working on an American car but all parts I buy comes from Mexico, India, China and Taiwan and some other crap countries :angryfire:
Even the American Racing wheels are made in China:sad10:
I will also buy a tranny cooler that is made in Sweden! (Setrab)
God knows where this will end...

American racing wheels made in China?! Thats just wrong!

Update, blasted all the windows chanels, they were OK with almost no rust, painted the roof too because I did not have anything better to do.
I will put on the vinyl top in a year or two but it feels good to have it done, and it looks better...
Blasted the hood too, it was straight with no bondo but with 15 holes instead, I will weld then and drill 14 new ones... Ran out of sand before I was done with it! Continue tomorrow.

looking good swede. is that hemi orange?

my '63 bench seat (60/40) ...I kind of sit low on the drivers side..
I do not like that "feel".

Roger, no it is a Peugeot color but don't tell anyone... It is a little more red then the V2, it looks really nice.
Sonny, ?

Took a bite in the trunk, damn it is rusty! Have to order more metal!

A good days work, hood has primer on both sides and inside is painted. All the extra holes are welded and the new ones are ready, missing two holes in the front, have not decided if I should put on a bee... I think they look so cool!
Also a picture of the trunk, say no more...
Found a paint shop 500 meters from home, talked to the guy and if we work it out I will only prime the outside and let them do all the work with bondo etc. It will save me a year or two...
Wifey is getting tired of me spending to much time in the garage:angryfire:

it's a good color.will look good with the hood and scoops on it,

This thread is awesome, and has inspired me...good luck with finishing the project, Swede!!!!

Working hard before the winter is here, wanted to have the door, fenders, hood and decklid ready, painted on the inside and primer on the outside and attached on the car before the weather gets to cold for working outside, I don´t want to do paintwork inside the garage again...

I was really lucky when I found the decklid and fenders her in Sweden, almost no rust at all, just some dents. The left fender will be ready today and then I only have the right one to do.
I also borrowed an engine leveler from Sven and will try to put in the engine in the car this week, it will give me some more space in the garage and I can work with the fun parts in the engine bay all winter.
And I can turn the car with the back inside towards the work bench so I can start replacing the trunkfloor etc.

Definatly put the bee on! Car is comming along great!

Yeahh!!! And a HEMI thats also cool :laughing9:

Finally the engine is back where it belongs, and I get more space in the garage too.
Wifey had to assist me and she was impressed! She had never seen a hoist or a leveler before and it only took like 10 min to finish it. Put on the carb, cables, belts and other small parts, will mount the steering so I can turn the car around tomorrow if it will stop raining... Worst summer ever....

AND I was the highest bidder on a Challenger but did not reach the reserve price :angry1:

Hi pal, looks like a new car, you are doing great.

That looks great!!!

Nice! Trying to wrap my mind around your luck in finding a deck lid and fenders in Sweden!

looking real good.

Nice! Trying to wrap my mind around your luck in finding a deck lid and fenders in Sweden!

That's funny Donny, I am suprised as well. Swede, it is really looking great, except that trunk floor, did you just find the key for it?? lol!

Matt, no I had the key all the time but there have been a real craftsman that covered up the rust with bondo, aluminum, poprivets, more bondo and finally paint :-(
But, I have ordered all the parts I need now (thanks Sven for helping me with the freight) so it will just take a week or two this winter to fix it.
And Matt and Donny, we have some real nice Mopars in Sweden, we got them in the seventies when you gave them away;-)

I am getting real tired of the car now, must take a break for some days, it feels like it takes forever to do a minor job. AND I have missplaced a lot of new parts that I need now, probably on the attic in the garage.
Got the new steeering wheel mounted, a grant 13,5 inch, feels a little small but it looks fine. See you all in a couple of days or more!

Looks great! Take a break and work on it when your ready. Nothing is worse than getting burned out and end up hating the car. You have done a lot in a little time so you deserve a well earned break.

Thanks for the encouraging words wingcarenvy, nice carpark you got!
(just because I don´t want to go out in the garage does not mean that I will stay away from the computer...)

sorry to hear about the missed challenger. i personally hate reserves on auctions if you wont take less then a certain dollar amount then start the bidding at that amount. i understand that with the reserve you can then see what people are willing to bid but if its less than you want who cares

That sure is a lot of work. Looks like you've got a handle on and that you're getting great results!

I´m back! Just found out a way to get 50 % more time with the money eating monster called Dodge Coronet. I sold my other crap project that I never will finish (that one too...)
A Lotus Super Seven clone that weight less then an ordinary bigblock.
The buyer will pick it up as soon as possible, hopfully tomorrow!

(I hope this picture does´nt banned me from this forum)

Your car is looking awesome swede!

Thanks Dave! Right now I am thinking what I should fill the gap in the garage with. A nice sofa, a bigscreen TV, a fridge and some nice magazines and I can spend even more time in there:headbang:

OR I can buy a new project, let me know if you run in to a 71 Cuda or any other E or B body :love10:

actually I spotted a blue.... challenger? a week ago between princton and st cloud MN .....

:grin:

for sale...

Swede, I know of a local nice E body for sale, at least it was back in April when I first spotted the car....a legit 70 R/T Challenger "U" code (factory 440 power). Factory white paint with red guts and super solid. Car has such a nice body that even the trunk pan is almost rot free. NOM motor has been rebuilt and will need a light resto to make it nice. He wants 25k USD for it.

If you're game, I can call him to see if it's still for sale, and if he's willing to sell it out of country.

Thanks Dave! Right now I am thinking what I should fill the gap in the garage with. A nice sofa, a bigscreen TV, a fridge and some nice magazines and I can spend even more time in there:headbang:

OR I can buy a new project, let me know if you run in to a 71 Cuda or any other E or B body :love10:

Thanks 70Fish and Dave, sounds interesting, don´t know if I should go bone stock, prostreet or go for a 5,7 or 6,1 hemi and alterkition front end, maybe try to find a newer charger to pick drivetrain and brakes etc. I had a plan from the beginning to build my coronet as a prostreet due to all rust in the floor and trunk, but I did´nt. I will probably wait until spring to see how far I have come with the coronet before filling up the shop again.

The car is looking great and your doing a fantastic job. I have been surprised as well with the parts you are finding in Sweden, you give motivation to many to keep working on their projects. A big thumbs up to you Swede.

And I used to gripe about finding parts in Indiana 10 years ago... you guys are unbelieveable over there with all the logistics! Top notch work, has to be unreal dedication. Kudos!

What a day!, blasted and painted the hinges for the doors and the hood, painted inside of one fender and it already has primer on the outside, then I painted the inside of the doors, but I have to paint the black part one more time due to bad craftmanship..., I am a lousy painter, I will only paint insides of the car and small areas that never will be seen again...
Only one more fender to do before I begin with the trunk, bring it on!

nice work you have done my friend

I am a lousy painter, I will only paint insides of the car and small areas that never will be seen again...

I am too :-)

nice work you have done my friend



I am too :-)

Me to, looks like a European problem

awsome job,, keep it up,
, pace your self,, make a list of stuff, little stuff to do,, and each day try to accomplish one thing off the list... but somehow,, everyday,, you add stuff,, but it keeps you from spinning in circles:blob1:

Finally got paint on the the doors so I can start to put them back togheter, it will probably take me the whole winther....
It has been 4 week with no work on the car, I better shape up!

fine fine fine

Looking great man!

I cant wait for next step ( pics )

Good work brother

I guess it is time for an update, I got a new job so I have not have so much time lately to spend on the car but this weekend was great, I finally got paint on the last fender, took it down to bare metal, welding those trim holes and put on some epoxi primer, then coating the inside with elastic body coating and finally some 2K top coat, It will never rust!
I am leaving the dents to the pros, at first I was planning to to all the work including paint but what takes me a month to do will take a pro 2 days...
The next project is to prepare the b-pillars so I can hang the door, (paint etc.) I hope to have the drivers door in place next weekend.
And thanks for the nice words, it really helps and I will keep working hard to get the car rolling in 2012.

Really nice work Swede!!:hello2:
Did you blasted the inside of the fender to get bare metal??

Roadrunner199, I did not blast them completely on the inside "like Donny would have done", I took all the edges and spots where there was a little rust, the fenders was 99 % rust free from the beginning and I took a 3M disc to remove all the paint on the outside so it won´t hassle with the new paint. I am a little afraid of blasting to much due to warping.

nice work on painting the interior. can't wait to see your car all together.

Looks better each time, that color just pops right out!

Thanks guys! I having more problems than I thought with the doors, missing some parts, vent window was from a 4 door car and did not fit, impossible to adjust the doors so they run nice along the fender and b-pillar and so it goes on...
But I will never give up!!!

I guess you can find those vent windows in Sweden, dont you think so.

I guess you can find those vent windows in Sweden, dont you think so.

Hmm, lets see, I have to ask my friend Sherlock.......................................... .................................................. .................................................. ..!

Aha, I should have thought of that first, if you ever need some parts, go visit Sven first, then you check eBay:VB toast:

By the way, have those axels showed up yet?

The 8 3/4 axles from Cass "Doctor Diff" will take about 3 more weeks to arriwe to Sweden, I will give you a phonecall immediately when they show up.

Had an hour or two to spend in the garage today and I painted the horns and found a new relay that looked at least 80 % correct, but the funktion is 100 % so it works for me.
I also wonder how the power feed works, I have one cable from the bulkhead, I assume it has 12 V when the horn button is pressed? I will take a power feed direct from the battery and connect it to the relay so the original cabel just trigger the circuit.
But how was it from the beginning, was there a relay on the 1970 model?

And I will also use the powerfeed from the battery to connect the lights by a relay to save the original wiring AND get a much better light!

Looks fantastic to me, I was always one for in the "spirit" of original. Functionality over originality. Seriously, looks fantastic, can't wait till I'm close to where you are in your project.

He swede i should like meet you at Västeras 5 - 7 .07.2012



i bring beer and we make a BBQ

Hi Uli, I will be in Denmark 7/7 2012 on the Roskilde festival watching the Boss, but you are welcome to drop by when you passing for Vasteras on the fifth of july, I live just 5 min from the E6 and I assume you are taking the bridge over from Copenhagen?

By the way, I have no more excuse now, almost 95 % of all the parts I need is in my garage right now, the only thing missing is a craftsman that can put it together...
I will take some pictures for you, it is like christmas day, I just love those boxes :love4:
And thanks to Sven (68GTX4SPEED) who had a vent window frame for me, if you guys ever need a hard to find part, give Sven a call, he has a goldmine for a moparfreak!

Things are looking great Swede. Keep up the good work!

Swede,

I love reading through your rebuild and sharing the experience with you. I too got burnt out and stepped away from the project for a while. Your posts have given me the inspiration to continue. The car looks great and cannot wait for your next update.

Thanks guys, I am getting ready for the big blast, just need a dry day so I can roll it out and blast of the rear and trunk, got almost every part I need to replace outer framerails, trunkfloor, QP etc. The only thing missing is a nice tail light panel, got a wanted ad in this forum.
After the blast it will not take so long time to cut out and weld in new metal, planning to buy a new gas tank too, will take down the old one and check it for rust. Hope to get one or two days in the shop this christmas, will post some pictures of the work later on.

Yes! The hardest working guy in Sweden spent the afternoon working on the dream, damn it was nice finally got the rusty floor out. When I removed the gas tank I looked inside it and it was half full, had to sifone 10 gallons out of it before I took it down, will probably buy a new one since it was pretty rusty like everything else...
The right QP was cut out and is was full of bondo. (And I will cut of the rest of it.)
The left one has been replaced by previous owner.
I still miss the tail light panel but I will probably solve it next week.
All the other parts are ready and I will start with the frame rails ASAP.

The 8 3/4 will be taken apart and I already have a new yukon nodular house with a 3,55 sure grip, will send the house to blasting and powder coating, new brakes and new HD leaf springs with new KYB shocks.

Had some real luck yesterday, a guys car broke outside my house, the exhaust fell to the ground, he bought a new one and I mounted it in 20 minutes, then he saw my project and it ended with he took all the front and rear bumper brackets and drove them to a blasting company and the will blast and paint them for me in exchange for my work with the exhaust!!

Wish you all a Happy New Year!!! And I promise you, next year I will drive my car!!!

That's a familiar site to me. I need to get back to the "DOG" before too long!

Took the rear end apart and found a 2.94 with a cone clutch, will keep it as a spare if the new one breaks...
Thinking about blasting and wire wheel the house and paint it at home, will save me USD 200, semi gloss black?
Need 6 new bolt for the leaf springs and shackles, anyone knows the lenght and type?
Anyone got a good picture of the spot welds on top of the kick back, where the trunk floor meets the floor under the rear seat?

man i read your whole thread. it really makes me miss my 70 super bee,FC7 plum crazy purple, white interior, white C stripe,buckets console,383/727.regretfully,i sold it about 8 years ago. i have had a passion for the 70 coronets ever since i was little,i frickin love these cars. great thread,keep it comin, cant wait to see it done. you should build a bee clone with it, red/black interior, with the reverse C stripes in black, air grabber hood , the optional 1970 pedestal mount rear spoiler, hood pins and blacked out tail panel treatment and the super bee badging,exhaust tips, the torque thrusts (i saw one pic of a wheel,not sure of the brand) and blacked out grills.please dont paint the bumpers.just food for thought--that thing is going to look so badass. anyways , i love it ,good work, and great car to build.

Wow Swede...Way to tear into it buddy!

Thanks guys!
Instead of sitting home with a hangover I got out to the shop early this morning and started some dirty work, cut out the trunk floor, wire brushed the crossmember and scraped off some black rust protection that some moron had sprayed on... I will paint the trunk body color.

Found out that I had a set of front hangers for super stock springs, Sven told med to drill two more holes in the so I can use them with my HD springs, quite a different compared to the old ones...

Thanks to Props thread work is going really easy, got two extra inner wheel houses that I will work with tomorrow. Need some lower parts and the lip to the QP.

I have a question too, the new frame rails are long enought to attach on the front side of the damper crossmember but when I look at the rail they are rock solid as you can see in the pictures, is it a big NO NO if I cut the new rails and weld them where the old frams are ending in the photos? It will be with one inch overlap since the new one fits inside the old one. Then I don´t have to mess with the crossmember.

Seems like it wouldn't be a problem as long as everything is straight. If your going for a factory look, might not be what you want to do. Even then you can grind it down and put a little filler on it and no one would know but you. I just wish my rails were that solid, I ended up replacing both whole frame rails all the way to the under seat pan including the pan. Now I'm trying to make sure the shock crossmember is in the right place. Anyway, great work. Glad to see your making real progress. Keep it coming!

Swede, keep up the good work, and Happy New Year to ya!!

More Please.............

Damn!!! Spending two hours to clear up a spare wheelhouse to use the outer rim and when I was ready to mount it it did not fit!:angryfire:

They are from a 4 door car that I took the fenders and trunk lid from and the wheel houses looks the same but the are approx 2-3 inches lower (made for fender skirts?? ;)), I can use them if I cut them in three pieces and fabric two extra pieces to put in between them, will do so in a day or two.
This is on the drivers side where the QP is already in place, on the other side it will be easier as I can hang the QP with clecos and take measures and the remove it before welding, you can imagine put 6´5" and 245 lbs of big fat Swede in a wheelhouse cutting and welding, it was fun 20 years ago...

Came home from work and found the brackets blasted, painted and delivered, great!

Got my self a blasting cabinet (finally...) and it is really nice blasting small parts, will take on the bracket for the fuel tank straps so they look like new when I weld them to the new floor! This is the spare tire mount (Needless to mention, I guess 99.99 % of all here knew it...)

Nice! It sure is amazing how much time can be saved and/or how well those cabinets bring smaller parts back to life. A must for a DIY resto.

Good work Swede!

damn budy you´r doing a fantastic work

I bet that blasting cabinet will be a great help, Looking good Swede! Continued good luck to you...

Looks like the same cabinet I have and I see you already appreciate it as much as I do mine.

Thanks!
Did´nt find any welding primer but Zink spray worked just as good, tank strap brackets and spare tire bracket are in place.
Damn it takes time fixing this rust...

Does the black AMD coating work as a primer? Shall I just rug it up a little before top coat or some kind of bedliner? It must be easier to do that now instead laying under the car and paint it...

looking really good Swede!

Does the black AMD coating work as a primer? Shall I just rug it up a little before top coat or some kind of bedliner? It must be easier to do that now instead laying under the car and paint it...

Try to leave as much as you can on it. People refer to it as E-Coat, simply put Epoxy Primer Coat. I don't know if you caught it over on my resto thread, but I scuffed the e-coat with a 3M Scuff/finishing pad (till there is no shine left to it) coated with rust bullet, and then sprayed on the bedliner in the trunk area. Mainly because that's where these cars love to leak and rot out.

On the outside of the car, i'm leaving what I can on, but by no means is it the only sealer/primer base for the car. There are much more appropriate primers/sealers to use as the main foundation for the top coat.

Hope it helps! Progress is looking great..

Looking good Swede!!! Keep it up.

On the e-coat issue I’ve talked to my paint supplier about it before. They say the e-coat is primarily to keep the parts from rusting in the warehouse. Whatever you will be priming your car with (DP-90, filling primer, etc) you will need to paint that over the e-coat as well. And with what primer you chose you might need to do something different to the e-coat. For example DP-90 requires a different primer to be applied to the e-coat before applying the DP-90. You may or many not need to scuff up the e-coat as Cranky stated. It all depends on the primer you will use. It’s as easy as reading the instructions first. We all do that, right… :Groaner:

10-4 Sarge!

I bought a pair of new outher wheel houses instead of fabicating new ones by my self, it takes a couple of weeks to get them but I can work on the rails and doors instead, it won´t be hard to fill the days...

Found a tail light panel in TN that will arrive with the wheel houses, it is an used part from a junked car but it is a lot better than mine.

Also have one question about measures on the rails, on Donnys thread there is a pictures that I took and the question is if the measure C is the same for a 1970 Coronet? I guess so, but I want to be sure.

And I am thinking of buying a new tank, found one here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1968-1970-Dodge-Charger-w-o-EEC-fuel-gas-tank-CR9A-Made-Canada-/200701040040?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26o tn%3D5%26pmod%3D170747333910%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5 692408719300342747), any toughts about it? Don´t want any leaking crap..
:coffee:

That measurement will be the same for your `70.

Back to the "E-coat"

We're assuming that's what it is and it likely is.

Could also be "A-coat"

Both are dip coatings with an epoxy formulation being the most popular in manufacturing for automotive, power sports, agricultural, etc.

E-coat is electro deposition coating, basically it means they charge the paint tank and ground the parts as they drag them through the tank or index them into the tank for the prescribed exposure dwell time. They tune the film thickness by adjusting the % of actual paint that's in the tank (the rest is water) and they also adjust the charge to help achieve the desired coating weight.

A-coat is also a dip process but it's called Autophoretic, it doesn't use electricity. it relies on chemistry to attract and attach the paint bath solids to the substrate.

In either case the film can be very good but it is subject to the process utilized by the coater. Prior to these coatings tanks there will have been extensive pre treatment to prep the panels to accept the coating in the dip tank. The pre treatment is the foundation for the dip coating, it must be done correctly.

Then of course there is the cure, both of these coatings are basically junk until they are baked (cured).

I've been in the industrial coatings world for nearly 20 years.

What it comes down to is this, do I trust e-coat under my paint job? Do I trust e-coat to exist between my own paint job and the steel beneath the e-coat?

I'd trust my own e-coat, I'd trust e-coat from pretty much any reputable stateside coater.

Do I trust a Chinese process? Do I know who put the e-coat on my panels?

No, I don't trust a Chinese process and no I don't know where the parts were coated.

Is e-coat simply e-coat no matter who puts it on? No.

E-coat/A-coat both have potential to be the best foundation possible to build from in your body/paint efforts.

But if done incorrectly they also have the potential to be the weak link in your paint job.

On the outside of the car (class A surfaces) I remove all of the black mystery coating from my replacement panels and start fresh with a 2K epoxy as my foundation.

Back sides of the panels or trunk floors, floor pans etc, I leave it on.



Sorry for being out of charactor for a bit there, I'll be over in the corner here drinking cheap beer and watching archie bunker re runs if anybody needs me :grin:

Good points northerndave! I’ll add that all of the new AMD pieces I’ve put on my car I tried sandblasting the coating off just to see how good it is adhered to the metal. All but one piece has had very good adhesion so I blasted the e-coat off that piece.

Update, waiting for the new parts I was planning to assamble the drivers door, you know that 10 months project that usally takes one day...
Had some problems with a missing hole in the -68 window so I bought a diamond drill planning to make a hole but with raising age so comes knowledge, lets try it first on another piece of glass!
Found a vent window for a 4 door and started drilling with water as a cooler, worked real great until Booom! 10 000 pieces of glass all over the shop, damn, I am so happy it was not the new window I blew up!
I skipped the hole...

Next was to put in the window in the door and it worked out OK, it was not so difficult that I thought, will take some pictures.

Third project was to drill the front hangers so they fit HD springs and SS springs too, piece of cake, I will start with the springs in the lower hole and if necessery put it in the upper hole, lower the car by an inch and a half if it gets to high with the new springs.
Anyone know where to get new bolts for the spring?

is there a hardware store that you can take the old bolts in and match them up to new ones?Or maybe pst suspensions would have them.

Due to the metric system it is really hard finding those bolts over here, the only positive with the metric system is when measuring body parts:icon_mrgreen:
Yes! Two digits...

Common swede...trying to measure up a 59/64" distance is so much easier than a metric measurement...LOL!

I remember years ago in elementary school we were told we're going to convert to metric here in the U.S. soon!!! Still waiting on that to happen..........

And I have heard that southern Sweden will convert to islam in 20 years, it is true!

Metric shmetric....We've had Metric scince 1973..and We Still use both systems

ps:Noice work You do Swede.......

And I have heard that southern Sweden will convert to islam in 20 years, it is true!

Well dust off that old Qur'an and get a crackin amigo!! LOL

And I have heard that southern Sweden will convert to islam in 20 years, it is true!


Wouldn't surprise anyone......They breed at 7 to 1............

Found the bolts to front spring eye, Mancini (http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/5frspeyebose.html)

Ya..... you can't cut tempered glass.

Like the waterdrops carve the rock the project moves forward, slow and steady.

Almost done with the drivers door, it was much easier then I tought, removed the spring to the window regulator and cleaned it and greased it, runs great now. Got new handles and will probably buy new locks too, I don´t want four different keys to the car.

Took some time mounting pass. door, both fenders and hinges for the hood so I can start adjusting. It is really hard getting those gaps round the doors right, to tight in the front and to much in the back, adjusting and now the fenders don´t fit :angryfire:

Damn it is hard to mount parts without scratching paint, I can´t belive when I see your new painted cars how you can hang doors etc. and not ruin the paint work.

Fitted the new quarterpanel and it seems to work out OK, the holes for the side marking light was exactly in place, it is starting to look like a car with the QP, door and fender in place.

I am done with most of the work on the engine, need to attach the exhuast pipes and trans cooler and it will be possible to crank it up, will be interesting, last time it was running it was a little jumpy, got new plugs and wires and a rebuilt carb, lets hope it will run as it should.

Nice Swede............

it's coming along real nice.you'll have yours done b4 i can even get my new floors put in.

It really does look great Swede, really coming along and that engine looks magnifico! http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd514/ron19731/thumbs.gif

Thanks guys, just started the computer at work and first things first, check forbbodiesonly for new posts, then make coffee and then start working...:coffee:

Made a "to do list" yesterday and when I printed it out it they called from the IT-department and asking what I was doing, you can imagine the length of the list...

Hello Joakim , you´r doing a nice work brother