Things to check when using long stroke cranks

Seen lots of guys ask about stroker cranks so consider this when making your decision.

You must check and notch bottom of cylinders oilpan side rails windage trays
piston skirts

You must check cam to rod cleanance and either cut or go to smaller base circle cam or different rods. .050 min clearance for steel rods, .075 for aluminum rods .015 for titanum rods.

Best to have 3 spare pistons made to your planned combo (stroke, rod length, comp height) to use when doing all the testing cutting fitting, they will be in and out several times or more.. (I use 1 5 6 cylinders for this process.)

Best to have test cam to bump and grind parts to clear

Best to have at least 2 spare steel aluminum or titanium rods if you plan to cut them for clearance

Cut block for .065 clearance min everywhere rotation assembly passes, when in dought, cut it out....

Pro machine shop can take 30-40 hours to do this with all your parts and all the nesessary equiptment....:yes:

Each and EVERY block used must be checked.......individually.....

Buying all of those extra parts is expensive and unnecessary in my opinion. Just why do you seem to think it is something anyone in their right mind would want to do that?

My guess would be in case a piston got broke during one of the trial fittings. Just reach in your pocket, and pull out another

696 how many 4.5 inch stroke cranks, have you clearanced in cast iron and aluminum blocks?

How many 800 plus lift cams have you clearanced for a 4.5 inch stroke motor?

HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU CUT RODS TO FIND OUT THEY WERE NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO TAKE THE TIGHTENING TORQUE? :grin:

Yup, doing and wasting 8 rods would be cheaper than cutting 2-3.:rolling: and nicked up expensive pistons are great to use in a final assembly...:yes::no:

Most guys that want these motors understand the concept of mockup and proto type parts.

Or do like you do, buy them pre cut and pray....:black_eye: then bitch when they don't fit.

(Now run back and check your plastic gauge stock...:tongueflap:)

I have ONE stroker engine that is a 440 bored and stroked to a 523. I did not build it. It is up and running just fine.

As I said previously I have confidence in the shop that builds, assembles and installs my engines, but I WOULD have a problem if they were buying extra parts as you suggest. If they didn't clearence things correctly and upon start up or break in it is on THEIR dime. They have only been doing high performane work for 30 years so I guess according to your standards they really don't know what they are doing. LOL!

BTW, the shop owner just sold his 7 second 1/4 mile car, so obviously HE don't understand how to build a race car.