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69 Charger For Sale On CL - Opinions Needed

I love the look of the car. The blue & white is a killer combo.

When I asked if the pictures were recent he replied rather plainly with a yes. When it was listed on CL back in Dec. there hadn't been that much, if any snow (note the plow pile) so that begs the question what do you define as recent, 1yr, 2yrs.... I bet the car looks great at 20' but as you get closer you'll see how bad it really is. He mentioned to me the ONLY thing that does not work is the AM radio.

No pic's of the VIN or Fender Tag, so somethings fishy as you'd think you'd post that as full disclosure to help make the sale. Also you know people are going to ask if it's #'s matching so as an owner you should know that, unless of course this guy is older than dirt and has no idea what he's driving.

Welcome to the world of cragslist games. There is not enough server space on fbbo for all of my craigslist horror stories and no responses. Personally, I hate the cragslist community and maybe 1% of the sellers are straight and honest, and maybe 20% actually reply and answer your questions.
I'm not trolling here, but I believe eBay has a better community of sellers overall. Yes, I've had several bad experiences (never bought a car yet), but either eBay made it right, or a PayPal case got me a refund.
My local garage mechanic has bought three eBay cars sight unseen (30s Plymouth, Ford Deuce, and an old GMC truck), and all three were represented honestly. Maybe that is not the norm, but compared to craigslist I believe eBay is better.
I just found out from a friend that one craigslist car I am considering has pictures that were taken 10 years ago on a car I was going to drive 7 hours to look at, so the suspicions are setting in now.
 
I love this car, too (and more importantly so does my wife). I put in a low starting bid when the car was first listed and was going to have one of my friends in upstate NY go check it out with his ASE certified mechanic son.

Bubbling is a cancer sign, but does not need to be addressed the first year of ownership. My take is you can get to know the car, fix up the little tlc items that need attention, and drive it and not worry about the paint and finish. If it is still a car you love then budget for the major expense of sheetmetal work and paint.

The only problem with my plan is what if you don't like it, or never get the sheetmetal budget? The 'exit plan' now depends on what you paid, and unless you paid under market, then my plan is a big mistake.

None of the crystal balls are accurate, so nobody knows when (not if, but when) the Charger market will stall and start to fall. Probably not anytime in the next 4 years, but it will stall and money will be lost 'investment wise'.

My take on this car was to get it for mid to high 20s, but when I got the "about 35K" reserve answer I walked away. The more I search, and the more I see 68-70 Chargers without motor or trans sitting on trailers needing quarter panels and bringing 19K, I realize a Charger is not in my future. I'm back to Super Bee and Road Runner shopping.

My wife said it best the other night; "....unless you have a 50 to 100K budget, you can't play the Charger game...".
 
Tell you what. You buy it & if it becomes a money pit I'll buy it from you for what you paid, LOL!

I love this car, too (and more importantly so does my wife). I put in a low starting bid when the car was first listed and was going to have one of my friends in upstate NY go check it out with his ASE certified mechanic son.

Bubbling is a cancer sign, but does not need to be addressed the first year of ownership. My take is you can get to know the car, fix up the little tlc items that need attention, and drive it and not worry about the paint and finish. If it is still a car you love then budget for the major expense of sheetmetal work and paint.

The only problem with my plan is what if you don't like it, or never get the sheetmetal budget? The 'exit plan' now depends on what you paid, and unless you paid under market, then my plan is a big mistake.

None of the crystal balls are accurate, so nobody knows when (not if, but when) the Charger market will stall and start to fall. Probably not anytime in the next 4 years, but it will stall and money will be lost 'investment wise'.

My take on this car was to get it for mid to high 20s, but when I got the "about 35K" reserve answer I walked away. The more I search, and the more I see 68-70 Chargers without motor or trans sitting on trailers needing quarter panels and bringing 19K, I realize a Charger is not in my future. I'm back to Super Bee and Road Runner shopping.

My wife said it best the other night; "....unless you have a 50 to 100K budget, you can't play the Charger game...".
 
Current bid is almost 33,000 and still a day left. Never bought a car off E bay and i doubt i ever will, so my question is how anybody could have big enough balls to buy a car like this for over 33G with a limited decribtion and not one picture of under the car and no fender tag. I just dont get it.
 
how anybody could have big enough balls to buy a car like this for over 33G with a limited decribtion and not one picture of under the car and no fender tag. I just dont get it.

I ask myself that same question quite often. This adds to the confusion of how to value these cars. There really is no rhyme or reason to the prices I see cross the eBay block.

About the only thing I can say is Charger's are just overheated market wise currently. I think that overheated Charger market is starting to cause higher prices across all B Body cars.

I deleted all of my Charger alerts on craigslist and eBay. Yes, I still browse on occasion and play a starting bid from time to time, but in my budget the reality is I can't play the Charger game.
 
Not to high jack your thread, but I also wonder about sellers on eBay that list the same car over and over again for years and years and never lower their reserve.

This particular car has been on eBay 9 times since March 2016. The reserve is 33K. The bidding will stall somewhere between 24 and 26. The auction will end unsold. Three weeks, or a month will pass and it will be relisted. I'm currently the high bidder and have been for three days now (a eBay car bid record for me). I call the seller every time it list and ask him to drop the reserve a bit, or let me strike a deal. He won't budge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222354533373?_trksid=p2055359.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Another case in point; this car has been on eBay close to two years. I'm interested at 15, or so, but the seller won't budge on this either:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge-...731ee9e6:g:JqgAAOSw5cNYcgpk&item=272514345446

This car has serious cancer, but if I could get it reasonable I would budget the sheetmetal work, etc.
 
Will be surprised if it sells. I'm calling BS on the play as I can almost guarantee this is a scam. The seller is very elusive with his answers. When I asked for actual documentation VIN, Fender Tag, better close up pics all I heard was the sound of crickets. Someone's gonna get burned. It would be nice if there was a way eBay could verify all cars by asking for vin title or something that they cross reference with the DMZ to prove ownership.
 
Welcome to the world of cragslist games. There is not enough server space on fbbo for all of my craigslist horror stories and no responses. Personally, I hate the cragslist community and maybe 1% of the sellers are straight and honest, and maybe 20% actually reply and answer your questions.


Here is another example of a craigslist seller that is DOA. Sent email, text, and left voicemail. Nothing.

I'm about three hours away from this car; could and would drive up there today with a cash deposit of $500, but no response.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5958951638.html

Probably already SOLD. The last B Body that was craigslists listed sold in less than 2 hours. Just can't get there fast enough!
 
Just walk away
 
Not to high jack your thread, but I also wonder about sellers on eBay that list the same car over and over again for years and years and never lower their reserve.

This particular car has been on eBay 9 times since March 2016. The reserve is 33K. The bidding will stall somewhere between 24 and 26. The auction will end unsold. Three weeks, or a month will pass and it will be relisted. I'm currently the high bidder and have been for three days now (a eBay car bid record for me). I call the seller every time it list and ask him to drop the reserve a bit, or let me strike a deal. He won't budge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222354533373?_trksid=p2055359.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Another case in point; this car has been on eBay close to two years. I'm interested at 15, or so, but the seller won't budge on this either:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge-...731ee9e6:g:JqgAAOSw5cNYcgpk&item=272514345446

This car has serious cancer, but if I could get it reasonable I would budget the sheetmetal work, etc.
-----------------------------That 69 Superbee looks nice and as far as i could tell underneath does not look bad, id wish they lifted that trunk mat though. So lets assume that the car runs great, interior , chrome, top all are presentable. Only body rot in lower trunk area and around quarters and the paint is showing its age. Could you get away with just partial quarters? Would 15 grand paint and body work sound reasonable? So maybe the car is worth 20G. Would this car be worth 35 to 40 in really nice condition? I dont know enough about the value of these cars. So was wondering what some of you think.
 
Why don't you guys ever ask the members who live near these places to check or opinions of them as a business...

Street side classics.....Run run run far away....just expect if you buy a car from them it is a basket case...

If your that serious about that Bee I would go take a look at it for any of the members here.....

Justin
 
Well look what showed up today on the net. Car did not sell for the reserve for 35K so the seller lowered to 32,600. Now up for sale at North Shore Classics http://www.justamericanmusclecars.com/1969-dodge-charger--c-2830.htm. No mention if #'s matching, no mention of the rust, no mention that the am radio doesn't work, no mention of the chips & scratches in the paint, no pic's of the vin or fender tag.....humm such a deal. Glad I didn't drive 8hrs to see it
 
Actually, the fact that people are not standing in line to give 35K is an advantage to you!

I've had numerous dialogs with North Shore Classics and they seem friendly and willing to work both sides of the fence; I recommend you call them and tell them you are a serious buyer once the price goes down. They might work the seller towards a realistic number.
 
Eh, NSC might be ok but the seller not so much based on his elusive answers.

I'm sure they don't know more about the car than the seller disclosed. It's probably still in NY being sold on consignment. They're now asking 40K for it.

Doubt it will go below the selling price as I'm sure they need to make $ on the deal. Would love to have someone in NY stop in see the car & present an actual review.

Actually, the fact that people are not standing in line to give 35K is an advantage to you!

I've had numerous dialogs with North Shore Classics and they seem friendly and willing to work both sides of the fence; I recommend you call them and tell them you are a serious buyer once the price goes down. They might work the seller towards a realistic number.
 
Not to high jack your thread, but I also wonder about sellers on eBay that list the same car over and over again for years and years and never lower their reserve.

This particular car has been on eBay 9 times since March 2016. The reserve is 33K. The bidding will stall somewhere between 24 and 26. The auction will end unsold. Three weeks, or a month will pass and it will be relisted. I'm currently the high bidder and have been for three days now (a eBay car bid record for me). I call the seller every time it list and ask him to drop the reserve a bit, or let me strike a deal. He won't budge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222354533373?_trksid=p2055359.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Another case in point; this car has been on eBay close to two years. I'm interested at 15, or so, but the seller won't budge on this either:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge-...731ee9e6:g:JqgAAOSw5cNYcgpk&item=272514345446

This car has serious cancer, but if I could get it reasonable I would budget the sheetmetal work, etc.
The 68 RR looks nice, worth more than 15k
 
Value is a sliding scale on both sides of any transaction.
I always buy vehicles with obvious problems and make them better.
I'm not fooling myself or anyone else.
Paint will always bubble in time, and anyone who doesn't accept the fact will be all huffy, demanding to know why moisture has touched the vehicle.
Let such purists pay the price for an Arizona vehicle, which has not known humidity.
 
So the car is still for sale at North Shore, so I decide to write to them to see what they knew about the car:

My questions:
Is this a #'s matching car, is there any rust, pic's of VIN, Fender tag, build sheet? Is there anything that does not work? Any scratches in the paint, are you in possession of the car or is it with the owner and being sold on consignment?

Their response:
We were told it was numbers matching (we never checked) There is some bubbling on the bottom of the 1/4, We do have the fender tag, I believe almost everything works, yes there are scratches - The car is at our dealership.

My take:

If they were told it's #'s matching & the car is at their dealership why not confirm what the seller told them. It's not like they don't know where to find the #'s as well as they must have a lift to make it easier. Also why not disclose what the seller said on eBay on the rust, scratches...etc... Very fishy to say the least.
 
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