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Help.....starter VS headers!

fwi

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Still working on installing the hedman headers onto my 69 383 motor. Got the pax side in (after removing steering center link), figured driver side would be a piece of cake.....it would have been if the starter was not in the way. My options are to beat #1 pipe down to about half its diameter, or, buy a mini starter. I prefer to buy the mini.
Having read many of the old mini starter posts here, I am still not sure which to buy. I do not want to have to grind down the block where the starter terminals may be too close, nor do I want to have to modify those terminals either.
Can anyone recommend one (reasonably priced) mini that will bolt right up? I don't trust the local auto parts "experts" we have in this town. :BangHead:
 
I used the one from Summit, however it will not connect with Ma Mopar terminals.
 
All mine get factory-mopar minis. Worth the money and little issues.
 
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You have lots of options for mini starters for this common problem. I tried the generic one from 440 Source touted as the second coming - for some reason it burned up pretty fast. I now have a Power Master I bought from Summit that has seems to work quite well. It's hi torque and claims to not heat soak. I think it was about $200.
 
I am looking at the ones from Mancini, reconditioned Denso brand.?
 
I've got a new Denso from Mancini on my 69 383 in my 65 Belvedere. The terminals are close to the block, but no grinding for clearance. Has worked fine for about 10 years. Recons would be cheaper I would guess.
 
I've got a new Denso from Mancini on my 69 383 in my 65 Belvedere. The terminals are close to the block, but no grinding for clearance. Has worked fine for about 10 years. Recons would be cheaper I would guess.
Sounds like you have pretty much what I have, a 69 383 motor in a 65 B body.....thanks.
 
I had a set back in the day that you had to put the starter on the header and raise them both into place, stab the starter and then mount the header. Then I got a used set of hooked super comps. Those had a window that you could change the starter by jacking up the driver side. It would squeeze by the column through the window.
 
I had a set back in the day that you had to put the starter on the header and raise them both into place, stab the starter and then mount the header. Then I got a used set of hooked super comps. Those had a window that you could change the starter by jacking up the driver side. It would squeeze by the column through the window.
Boy do I remember doing things that way a bunch of times back in the day. I had Hookers too and got to be pretty adept at swapping out starters in that manner. That was before mini starters came along - at least to my knowledge. Used rebuilt Ma Mopar starters.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter...ash=item53ee1ec362:g:CVoAAOSwhAZWBrtm&vxp=mtr

I bought one of these for my 318 and my 440, both with headers. On the RB, no problem with fitment and no modifications needed. The terminal end comes with the adaptor which I took off to wire. No issues. Personally, I don't see any extra value in the expensive starters companies sell. I cannot find any info saying they are better or different.
 
I had a set back in the day that you had to put the starter on the header and raise them both into place, stab the starter and then mount the header. Then I got a used set of hooked super comps. Those had a window that you could change the starter by jacking up the driver side. It would squeeze by the column through the window.

That's what I did this afternoon, had to put the starter inside the "cradle" formed by the curve in the header, used my floor jack to lift the header while holding the 20 lb starter with the other hand.......after I bolted the starter in, come to find out the header can't quite come up to where it should be as it is blocked by the BIG starter housing!!!
 
Received the starter from DB electrical today. It is the same size as the one on my 383 now! I thought they made a mini, which to me means it would be smaller in size....I bought this motor complete, starter came with it. I guess mine must be a mini, it sure doesn't feel like one at over 9 lbs.
I guess now I will have to pound the sheet out of the #1 tube and reduce its diameter by about 3/4" where it bumps up against the widest part of the starter, unless I can find a starter that is truly smaller, or a different set of headers, or put the old manifolds back on. This is truly frustrating as I am so close!!!:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
 
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I just took mine out today because it was heat soaked and the tranny needed to be rebuilt. I jacked up the motor after disconnecting the mounts and took out all the spark plugs, then i angled the header out to be wrapped by ceramic later on. Its a huge pain but once its done its worth the headache. Carefull not to pull the studs all the way as youll leak coolant everywhere
 
Can you post a picture of your starters? If those headers won't clear a mini I'd raise Hell and send them back. I've got Hooked Super Comps and they clear both the factory starter and a mini. If Headman can't make it clear a mini then they clearly didn't make it to be useable to begin with!

Even with mine the starter and header need to be installed simultaneously but have plenty of room once installed.
 
You sure you have the right headers?

My headman headers fit fine with the factory starter and cleared the DB electrical starter by a mile on my RB. And the DB cleared the headers fine on my 451, as do my flowtech headers.
 
i cant post a picture right now but it was the original factory chrysler starter surprisingly. I'm not sure what kind of headers i got but they sucked to get out.
 
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