coloradodave
FBBO Gold Member

Greg, Life in Lincoln was slow before the bypass and just right now that the Hwy 65 traffic is gone. lol About the vacuum advance; it should have NO effect on your detonation IF you are taking it off a full manifold vacuum source. As soon as you open the throttle, the vacuum is gone and the advance plate reverts to the mechanical limits. If, however, you took it from a ported vacuum source (no vacuum at idle), the vacuum advance can contribute to the problem. I posted a really good primer on...

Having just dealt with the 'pinging' problem, I'll throw my 2 cents in. I recurved my Mallory Electronic distributor, with vacuum advance, so that the curve starts at about 1300 RPM (my idle is 1,000). It then advances in a pretty straight line to 24* at 2,800 RPM. I use 12* initial and have adjusted the vacuum can to add 10*, on full manifold vacuum, not ported. Thus I have 46* total advance cruising down the road. If I bring the mechanical advance in sooner it pings on light and medium...

Been to a drag strip lately? You won't believe the non GM cars that run the lowly 'powerglide'. We used to call them "slush boxes". They've come a long way, baby...

Thanks Steve and Rick...

Hey Joe, Glad to see you finally made it to this site. If anyone deserves an 'A' rating for a vendor, it's you. I've bought a lot of hard to find parts from Joe and his service has been top notch and his prices fair. Great guy to deal with. Thanks, Joe. Dave

Marcel, I'll be there. Look for my red 63 Fury convertible. It'll be good to meeet you. Dave

Respectfully disagree. Roller rockers aren't necessary on a stock or mild build. Put the money into something that will actually improve your ride...

Remember also that our cars aren't like new cars that have sealed systems and vapor recovery. You will get a fuel smell for a while after pulling into a garage (carburetors, air cleaners, fuel tank vented to the atmosphere). Perfectly normal for cars of the 60s & 70's.

Ditto what the others have said. 215/70R-15 tires belong on 5.5" to 7" wide wheels. The thing you have to watch for on small tires is the weight rating. Most of the 165 and 185 tires are made for much lighter cars. Even if your looking at D.O.T. frontrunners make sure and check the weight rating. Nothing worse than popping a tire bead in a corner. I'd have a talk with the manager at Firestone and make him/her aware of the liability issues, not to mention having a pissed off customer with a...

When the weather clears, turn in the idle speed screws to raise the idle RPM up to 1,000-1,050RPM AFTER the engine is fully warmed up, which is 10-15 minutes of running and 180* or better on the temperature gauge. The gauge that Dan Dvorak sells is only for synching the idle speed of each carburetor. What will be more beneficial to you at this point is a simple vacuum gauge. The air/fuel mixture in the max wedge manifold has to travel a fair distance from the carburetors to the intake ports....

Sorry, but this doesn't make sense. Jeez, I'm turning into Rusty...lol

Anytime. You really don't need the synchronizer at this point. With the engine 'off', snap off the linkage arm off each carburetor. Turn the idle speed screw (NOT mixture screw) on each carburetor CCW until it isn't touching its stop and the carburetor butterflies are completely closed. Then turn the idle speed screw on each carburetor CW until it hits its stop and another 1 full turn. Adjust the linkage arms so that they will snap on each carburetor without moving the butterflies. Now both...

Benno, I DON'T BELIEVE IT!!! I thought I would never live long enough to see the day your car would actually be running. Congratulations, my friend. It sounds awesome! Great work! Dave

Good info on this post but too technical for a beginner. First things first: Turn all the idle mixture screws CW until they are 'lightly' seated. You can mess up the seats if you turn them in too hard. Then turn ALL 4 screws CCW 2 turns. This setting will get it in the ballpark. Edelbrock's site and a set of owner's manuals (download from Edelbrock's site) will give you enough basic knowledge to get it running right. THEN you need to find a new "knowlegeable" guy who can actually help you. He...

From the Summit catalog: The 1.5 ohm coils are for 8 cylinder applications. The 3 ohm coils are for 4 & 6 cylinders. The 1.5 ohm coil is part #PNX-40111 in black or part #PNX-40001 in chrome.

PM returned - - - Updated - - - Alex, I know you already bought this but I'll answer your question anyway. I was using this distributor in my street car with an MSD 6AL capacitive discharge box. No vacuum advance. Dave

Not true. Listen to Meep Meep. Increase the secondary metering plate size (or jet size if it's been converted to a metering block) and make sure the float level is set correctly. If you're unsure how to do this go to the Holley tech site. I will agree that if you raise the floats high enough to run rich, you are puking fuel into the motor and run the risk of washing your cylinder walls with gas. NOT a good option...

Interesting thread, but it really doesn't mean anything. Soon as you brag that you beat a big block with your small block, the next 100 small and big block cars will blow your doors off. Bragging rights on the street are very short lived...taught me to be humble. lol

I am missing something here. Are they the correct number for your application? If you bought these headers new why not return them to the vendor and let them know THEY have a problem?

If that was meant for me, thank you very much. I am in awe of ilm65's car! As for the power brake set-up, it's a conversion to later Mopar single piston caliper disc brakes with stock rear drums. It brakes very well with 10" vacuum. No issues at all.

Uhh. no. but I wouldn't mind having it...

I run a 440 with maxwedge heads, a factory crossram with 2 Edelbrock 500s, slightly smaller cam, 4 speed and 3:91s in my daily driver. As ilm65 said, the car starts right up, idles well and is very responsive. Mileage usually is about 10-13mpg if I keep my foot out of it. Don't need to choke it unless it's pretty cold outside and may have to jazz the throttle a few times for a few minutes, but then it settles down to a nice idle. I also am 'old school' and love the 'jaw drops' when I open the...

As far as NHRA: Yes, you can. The battery cannot be located in the passenger compartment and if put in the trunk, there needs to be a firewall between the trunk and the passenger compartment, or the battery can be put in a steel or aluminum sealed and vented (to outside the trunk)box. There are specs for the materials for the firewall and/or box. There also needs to be a master cut-off switch with a shut-off accessible from outside the trunk if the vehicle can exceed 135mph. This is all covered...

Given any thought to just using a used Pro-Charger set-up? Way easy horsepower increase. Ability to boost it up with just a pulley change. First time I tried it I was hooked.

Hollander manual says yes, 4dr. front and rear side glass is the same. 2 dr. is different as is the vent window like Pat said.

Notice: the OP wanted AIR SHOCKS...

How about a line-loc for doing those serious burnouts?

Vacuum to operate power brakes and vacuum to open the secondaries on a carburetor are an apples and oranges discussion. I'm with Rusty on this. The sales guy mislead you. Your carb will operate fine, as long as you don't expect a 'kick in the pants' when the secondaries open. You shouldn't feel them open if everything is working right.