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yeah... no reverse means the band broke. No forward means either the sprag is dead, or the forward clutch isn’t working.
I hesitate to say take it back. But it needs to go back.
... and in my case- if you were “in tolerance” and there’s .0005” variance, if it was for a special application where I needed certain clearances, I’d be pissed. I had that discussion with my “pretty good” guy. The “perfect” guy asks what I want for specs. That’s the difference. And that adds...
There’s only two reasons a shop goes broke: they don’t do what they say; or they don’t charge enough. Restoration shops have to get more because they have to deliver a higher end product. The talent has to be better. The materials have to be better. The equipment and process “have to be better”...
Yeah... I think it goes:
Cheap
Fast
Durable
Pick any two.
depending on where you live and your expectation for final product your costs will vary. I don’t think $5500 is bad, depending on the parts list. Most enthusiasts don’t track every nickel, and therefore overlook a lot.
1973 340 engine, complete minus carb and manifolds. This has been completely stripped to bare block and freshened with many new parts but remains std bore. Crank needed to be turned and is now .010/.010, engine remains factory external balanced. Stock Thermoquad intake. New parts: cam bearings...
Right- but the lifter bores have wear from the previous service life too. If bushings are not used (any build, not just yours) the new lifter is subject to the hole it ends up in. I’d probably use an organic oil and heavier viscosity but I’d consult your builder on the first- he knows the...
Because I don’t use them unless my arm is twisted, I’m not up in the hydro roller choices or quality. I do know like any hydraulic they are subject to the wear of the bores, and I’ve read of noise issues with Comp although with the flat tappets I’ve never had a noise that was the lifters fault...
Guessing it’s lifters bleeding down, either their due to their design or other factors. It’s not a lower end issue and I don’t consider it a “damaging” deal. It’s irritating but my suggestions would be you can try another brand of lifter, verify the preload is right, try a little heavier oil, or...
I don’t think it’s a case of damage missed in the building stages. If he’s making 550hp out of a 383 the basics should be covered. What oil are you running? How are you seeing that there’s no pressure? How long does it take to come up?
you responded while was apparently... lol
were the lifter...
Drain back is your issue from the sound of it, and that’s more a function of your filter, overall condition of the block, and the oil’s viscosity hot.
I’d change the filter to a high quality like a Wix Blue or Gold and see what that does. Maybe try a grade or two thicker than what you run if...