Recent content by munger77

This is the vertical chrome piece that attaches to the 1/4 window and holds rubber trim. I bought one on here awhile ago but the person shipped me the driver side and I need passenger side. The total length is approximately 17" LMK,

Nice car and nice find, but it is still a LOT of man hours.

Hi everyone, guess what? The meter was off!! I thought about it the next morning, and got my trusty fluke out and re-checked all voltages and they are consistently normal everywhere. So sorry for the for the confusion. And regarding the question about the ECU; it is definitely not an MSD or I...

Thanks Pnora and everyone, when I bought the car 7 years ago, it came this way - with a ballast resistor; external voltage regulator on the firewall (gray or black metal box IGN and field terminals on it); the blue ECU; and electronic distributor. The OEM wiring harness had melted several...

Hi, I've rewired the car front to back and just started it up. Changed Ballast resistor (read 2.4 ohms on ballast disconnected vs. the new one which correctly is 0.6 ohms). Distributor is electronic OEM spec and I have a blue ignition module on the firewall and external voltage regulator box...

I’ve seen a number of YouTube videos of people using body panel adhesive vs welding which can cause warping if you are a novice welder like me. But I’ve never tried the panel adhesive. An automotive wrecking yard would probably have some sheet metal that is 18 gauge but I bought some at tractor...

My guess is 50-59K. If the paint needs to be refreshed or re-done that could prevent someone from pulling the trigger because without an estimate from a paint shop or two, it is a large unknown.It could wind up in 'paint jail.' Just my 2 cents

That is a LOT of metal work to be proud of. If you sell that car even in 30 years, the buyer should see the before and after photos to know exactly how much rust you painstakingly replaced! What a feat.

I liked the 70's style customs, especially the early 70's. This car isn't consistent with my taste or preference. But man, someone knew what they were doing with the sheet metal work, using aluminum for the floor, and customizing the heck out of their GTX back in the day. If you read a Hot Rod...

3 things: 1. For $1 at the Columbus OH Goodguys PPG Nationals you can buy tools that are helpful - like a pic (looks and acts like a dental instrument) 2. HEADBAND LIGHT AS OTHERS SAID 3. IPAD FOR SEARCHING THIS FORUM FOR HELP WHILE LAYING IN A PRECARIOUS POSITION UNDER THE DASH, ETC

My glass is ok; looks like I just need up stops for the quarter windows (I have 2, need 2 more), and some of my rollers are not freely rotating, so I may be in need of a couple replacements if you have any of those.

Well Said Detective.

WTB update - I still need 2 window glass up stops for the rear quarter windows. Bought chrome trim from Roberto aka Zookypr.

I have one for a 1968, so the key is in the dash, not on the column. It's new, I ended up not using it.

LMK if you have any chrome trim that attaches to the front edge of the quarter window glass; convertible preferred but I may be able to make hardtop version work