Has anyone put in a 66-67 windshield?

Did an internet search.
Boldly going where no one seems to have gone before on this.
Which way?
Should I put the glass in the gasket first then use pull the side and top rubber into the car?
Or put the gasket in the car first and shoe horn the glass into the rubber?
There is sort of a "zipper" channel (Red Arrows) that lets the rubber pull way from the glass for installation on the sides and top only.
It appears that once the glass is in the gasket, you zip the two rubber sections together.
I've seen something like this before.
I've done several A bodies from the 70s. They have a big lip on the inside of the car that you can't pull in with a wire.
The gasket goes in first. The windshield is then "shoe horned" into the rubber and a rubber locking rope goes into a channel in the rubber.
(Well, that worked for me anyway)
But to do this car maybe I should put the glass in the rubber (Blue Arrows), use 3M 8509 (or equivalent) into the cowl bottom gutter channel (green arrow) and 8509 in the side and top rubber groves that go on the A pillar and roof fences. And then set the assembly into the cowl channel.
Then use a wire to pull the rubber into the car on the A pillars and roof.
3M strip caulk (8578) appears too big and not pliable enough for the small groove in the rubber that goes on the fences. But I figure it needs something.
Already done the rear glass on the car. I've go some experience on that. Live and learn.

Put a small rope/cord into the outer-channel of the seal. With the seal on the glass... insert bottom of windshield/seal into body over pinchweld. Have someone press firmly on the windshield, while you "rope it in", by pulling the rubber seal over the body lip...all the way around. Put sealer everywhere. It'll clean up afterwards.

The rope trick worked most of the way around but I still needed to pry it in on most of the top and both top corners. Glue the bottom in place or it Will move on you by the time your done. I didn't have any help though when I did mine. To pry it in I used a trim removal kit from harbor freight. Mine came out ok but the bottom didn't lay flat, hence the glue advice. After install then I went around it with 3m urethane sealer but I don't remember the number. I did use the same gasket as your and liked the end result. Good luck!

RT K_line said:

The rope trick worked most of the way around but I still needed to pry it in on most of the top and both top corners. Glue the bottom in place or it Will move on you by the time your done. I didn't have any help though when I did mine. To pry it in I used a trim removal kit from harbor freight. Mine came out ok but the bottom didn't lay flat, hence the glue advice. After install then I went around it with 3m urethane sealer but I don't remember the number. I did use the same gasket as your and liked the end result. Good luck!

Click to expand...

I have used polyurethane on A body gaskets. That stuff sets up like....well glue.
No leaks ever and I have been able to take out and install windshields without the rubber moving.
Thanks. It looks like putting the glass in the rubber first is the way to go.
I'm leaning toward using the 3M 8509 which never sets up because I'm sort of scared to use polyurethane on this car.
That gasket will never come out if I do. But I'll rethink it.
I used poly on the rear glass because it is flat and standing water might get in.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...63733?keyword=pl+polyurethane+roofing+sealant
The rear glass , Chrysler probably never meant to be removed once installed since it is less likely to break.
The rear glass molding clips don't even have a provision to get a removal tool under them like the front glass do.
And barely a channel between the rubber and car body.

I've done a few other cars and an old glass friend taught me to use a #12 THHN solid. It works great, doesn't break, or cut the gasket and pulls really easy...
You really need 2 people though...

We always flat-hand slapped the windshield in the top corners. Did it in a glass shop for a few years...and never broke one. Don't know about tolerances with all this knock-off stuff.

Funny story, I never broke one either until I was married... I was putting in my wife's windshield and was done for intents and pratical purposes and decide to give the drivers corner one more bump...and pop!
Lesson learned , don't install glass with a wedding ring on! Luckily it went from corner to corner about 4" long... I'll replace it when things settle down or it gets worse...

If you haven't already done it, put the gasket on the windshield and leave it in the sun for a while to get the gasket softer. It won't hurt.

FWIW.
I checked the factory manual. (DUH) Should have thought of that, since I have one.
It instructs the gasket to go in the car first.
Like this.
Put 3/8 bread of sealant in the cowl trough and sealant in the rubber's fence grooves on the sides and top.
Also sealant in the rubber's glass groove all the way around..
Then put the gasket in the car.
Set windshield in the bottom groove and work in into the sides and top grooves.
The put the zipper thing together once the glass in the rubber..
I'm glad I found this because after looking at the rubber, the sides and top sure look too heavy and thick to pull them into the car. Plus I tested the gasket on the windshield and it really doesn't stretch and stay on like the back glass gasket does.
That one uses the rope pull in trick.

doing the glass on my Newport this week...mine is held in with da goop and not a gasket so im not much help there; but my glass guy told me that the rear is tempered and the front is laminated. FWIW the rear is practically indestructible whereas the front, if you just nick the edge, it will crack easily.

Is the convertible windshield any different?
I have a newer one in storage, and my orig gasket is still pliable.

Rule of thumb on gaskets...

If it has a zipper or lacer then the gasket goes on the car first. Set windshield in a 'spoon' it in with plastic windshield spoons.

If the gasket does not have the zipper or lacer, you put the gasket on the glass then rope it in.

Glass cleaner works as great lube to get the glass in the gasket, body shops will kill you for using silicon.

If your car does not get washed regularly or never sees rain I would forgo any sealer. There is no structural rigidly from any urethane on these cars.

Post #9 is spot on.