Embarrassed: one lug nut won't budge

Billccm · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks for the candle trick, but won't work here as the lugs cover/cap the stud threads.

Breaker bar not shown in picture, but I did try it.

PB Blaster can was decompressed. I shot TriFlow on the drum and soaked the lug cap.

I'll let you know this week.

Have not had this much fun since 1997.............

Fran Blacker · Jan 22, 2017

Wonder if you want to sacrifice the lug nut by drilling a hole in the end and enlarging after a smaller starting hole. Then use some of the tricks suggested?????????????????

conv67bdere · Jan 22, 2017

Billccm said:
According to receipts Discount Tire put tires on in 2015.........

If that's the case, then the thing could very well be cross threaded . . . and the only way to get it off it to break it off . . .

kiwigtx · Jan 22, 2017

conv67bdere said:
If that's the case, then the thing could very well be cross threaded . . . and the only way to get it off it to break it off . . .

Studs and lug nuts are cheap....go ahead, swing until it gives way. :thumbsup:

aldal · Jan 22, 2017

conv67bdere said:
If that's the case, then the thing could very well be cross threaded . . . and the only way to get it off it to break it off . . .

x2....put a longer pipe on your breaker bar and go easy. Good luck :thumbsup:

khryslerkid · Jan 22, 2017

eldubb440 · Jan 22, 2017

oooohhhhh fffffffudddggge!!!

Ranger16 · Jan 22, 2017

Billccm said:
According to receipts Discount Tire put tires on in 2015.........

From my experience, Discount Tire is very careful about torque. They use an impact with a torque stick and final torque by hand with a torque wrench.

Billccm · Jan 22, 2017

Quick question: My Chilton manual (purchased by me in 1979) covers 1969 to 1975 Charger and Coronet. Assume it's a good book for the brakes on the 1968 Road Runner?

khryslerkid · Jan 22, 2017

Billccm said:
Quick question: My Chilton manual (purchased by me in 1979) covers 1969 to 1975 Charger and Coronet. Assume it's a good book for the brakes on the 1968 Road Runner?

My opinion on a Chilton is they can be very generic. If the illustrations look just like what you are working on you should be good. So many times they will explain how to do things that actually covers many vehicles and not just yours in particular. I like to use the Motor Manuals or the service manual for your car by Chrysler. Should find one on Ebay or Amazon.

Tip on doing brakes: Take one side off at a time so you have the other side to go off of when reassembling.

Bb70charger500 · Jan 22, 2017

On big off road trucks when 1" air gun is in avail we used a braker and a pipe then drove the truck till it was firm ageist the ground then went a little further they will come off this way but be extremely careful slipping is a bad thing especially for a restored car or your face . I would just brake it the hell off sounds to me like it's cross threaded typical of these tire shops

BeeKool · Jan 22, 2017

khryslerkid said:
Tip on doing brakes: Take one side off at a time so you have the other side to go off of when reassembling.

Billccm · Jan 22, 2017

khryslerkid said:
Tip on doing brakes: Take one side off at a time so you have the other side to go off of when reassembling.

YEP a lesson I learned in my younger days.

Right now I'm 'car poor'. Otherwise I would not fool with these drums and just start my disc conversion.

Saving money. Should be converting to front disc Christmas 2017!

Mopars & Missiles · Jan 22, 2017

Billccm said:
Quick question: My Chilton manual (purchased by me in 1979) covers 1969 to 1975 Charger and Coronet. Assume it's a good book for the brakes on the 1968 Road Runner?

Here's a good book for '68 RR brakes.......
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

Hemi 354 · Jan 22, 2017

How about a impact wrench....just for good measure

440beep · Jan 24, 2017

If it's the driver side, what is the chance that the tire tech didn't realize it was left hand thread, broke off the stud, and replaced it with a right hand stud and didn't say anything? For this reason, I won't let the guys touch my wheels, I show up with my own tools and take off and put back on the wheels myself.

Billccm said:
According to receipts Discount Tire put tires on in 2015.........

66Satellite47 · Jan 24, 2017

I should have suggested to grind off the end of the lug nut to expose the threaded part of the stud, then the heat, liquid wrench (or whatever), long breaker bar. Impact wrench with compressor pumped to the max pressure. The stud will break with a long enough breaker bar/pipe, although I have broken a couple of cheap impact sockets too.

Fran Blacker · Jan 24, 2017

How about using a cutoff wheel to partially split lug nut. Not much room to grind.

1967coronet440 · Jan 24, 2017

Bb70charger500 said:
On big off road trucks when 1" air gun is in avail we used a braker and a pipe then drove the truck till it was firm ageist the ground then went a little further they will come off this way but be extremely careful slipping is a bad thing especially for a restored car or your face . I would just brake it the hell off sounds to me like it's cross threaded typical of these tire shops

That sounds extremely dangerous, all this fuss over a lug nut, cut the damn thing off.

Bb70charger500 · Jan 24, 2017

I agree on something like this cut it off on the big trucks this is much easier but just giving options I'd just bring the car to a local big truck shop and let them zip it off with a 1" impact that will do the trick

Embarrassed: one lug nut won't budge

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

Super Moderator

Henchman #4 and Jack-Stand Racer #2

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

more miracles than Jesus

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads