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added width?

bigaadams

bigaadams

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when upgrading the early b-body (62 dodge Polara in this case) is there any change in the front wheel track going from drums to disc? I know put it on and measure, I would but, I have an op to snag some upgrade parts and a short window to pass or play. Thanks...
 
Why are you worried about it? If there is any difference bet it's an inch or less overall. INHO.
I did a conversion on my 65 Dodge and didn't notice any difference.
 
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there are other factors in the mix as it is...if there is a change in track, then I will have to make adjustments with my other components, mainly the wheel option....a small amount is not an issue...an inch however would cause for purchase of other items and the cost rises and the options I am looking at may no longer be within my build and as stated, short window on yes or no to purchase....

was hoping someone who did the swap annotated any track change...
 
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The change is in the thickness of the rotor vs drum where the studs mount.
 
and that translates to a difference of X???? (+/- that of stock)
 
It's about 5/16's per side.
 
Appreciate your reply, got something to work with now...I had written to a couple suppliers of these kits but none have replied. No one mentions this in their talking papers on the net. I scoured many pages and websites looking before asking here.
 
I might be wrong, so don't take that as Gospel. I know on the A body's it make them wider, and I thought it was 5/16's, so please check into it as I might be wrong.
 
Remove your front tire put a straight edge vertical and measure to the center of the upper ball joint. Put together the disc assembly that your looking at and take the same measurement.

Edit: Straight edge should be at the base where the wheel studs with drums on.
 
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5.7 hemi said:
I might be wrong, so don't take that as Gospel. I know on the A body's it make them wider, and I thought it was 5/16's, so please check into it as I might be wrong.
Click to expand...

When using '73 up A-body disc brake spindles on an earlier A-body, you end up with a wider front track. I will find out how much and report back.
On an early B-body, not sure, but you don't have to change spindles, so I believe difference is minimal.
 
Just for reference, swapping 73 up big bolt pattern spindles to an early A-body that had small bolt pattern drums moves the wheels outboard .85" each side. About 1 3/4" wider track.
Haven't found anything about B-body cars being different, drum to disc.
 
bigaadams said:
there are other factors in the mix as it is...if there is a change in track, then I will have to make adjustments with my other components, mainly the wheel option....a small amount is not an issue...an inch however would cause for purchase of other items and the cost rises and the options I am looking at may no longer be within my build and as stated, short window on yes or no to purchase....

was hoping someone who did the swap annotated any track change...
Click to expand...
I'm a little confused. Other than the remote possibility of changing the backspacing of the front wheels, what other parts are you thinking need to be changed if there is a small difference in track?

I upgraded my '64 Polara with 73 and up "A" body disks and other than changing to 15" wheels, which was I was planning to do anyway, there were no other changes required (other than the master cylinder, proportioning valve and minor changes to the lines). Track width difference didn't require any parts changes whatsoever.
 
the changing of the backspacing is not a remote possibility, it is going to be a given..stock wheels will not be utilized....the wheels in question are positive offset, knowing the difference between stock and added width given the disc upgrade will let me know up front if I am going to have to pass on what I can immediately place my hands on OR instead continue till I find another option that suits my eye for this build. Even if forced to steel wheels for the moment, they will still be a bit positive over the stock year application.

as an update, the company I asked this information of that sells kits online, states that the track will increase 1/4 inch per side when installed on a b-body.

And for you folks that have replied with measurements the past couple days while I was out and about, (bull1tt) that is good to know as I will more than not be upgrading an a-body to disc also. I thank each and every one of you for you time to respond.
 
Well, if you are determined to keep the original track measurements then why not just upgrade to disks, your choice of kit or stock parts, and then measure the mounting surfaces. With that info you can order wheels with the correct backspacing to keep the stock track width.

Personally a quarter inch each side, or even a half inch each side will not be, or make, a visible difference.... and the car won't know the difference either.
 
It will have a tighter turning radius, but you probably won't notice it.
 
centerline, not sure what you are reading....at no time did I say I was staying stock...if staying stock why the need for asking questions on increased width...please read closer, I am changing to discs, I am changing wheels......sorry if my thread has confused you...I do appreciate you willingness to help
 
bigaadams said:
centerline, not sure what you are reading....at no time did I say I was staying stock...if staying stock why the need for asking questions on increased width...please read closer, I am changing to discs, I am changing wheels......sorry if my thread has confused you...I do appreciate you willingness to help
Click to expand...

No sweat. If you're thinking about going the mid 70's "A" body disk upgrade I did that not long ago (manual not power) and here's a list of parts that work perfectly.

Centerline said:
I used all Mopar parts. Spindles and caliper mounts from a 76 Dart. Master cylinder and calipers from a '75 Dart and rotors from a 77 Monaco. Everything just bolts together. Lines were from a '75 dart as well. Just needed a little adjusting to clear and work perfectly.

Calipers were moved to the rear of the spindle to clear the factory sway bar. Without a sway bar they are be mounted to the front which should make the lines just bolt right up.

View attachment 424709
Click to expand...
 
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