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ENGINE SETBACK

FLY 9999

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Thought that I came across an article where you could get about a 1" set back with a BB but it only works with SB K member. Any help?
 
no to get the set back you have to use the 68 to 70 k member
 
There is NO difference in 1963-5 V8 k-members! There are ONLY six cylinder, V8, and Hemi versions. If you have a 63-5 B-body car and you install a 68-70 V8 k-member, you will set your engine back 1-1 1/2 inches.
But keep in mind you move the z bar back on a manual trans car to an odd angle, and the transmission mount on both auto/manual applications changes also. You may also run into firewall clearance issues with certain transmission or bellhousing types.
 
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i've been doing the measurements between the 63 and a 69 . motor mounts are farther back to the firewall and higher . that could be a weight transfer better with stock parts . 62- 63 uses shorter rear leaf fronts only 20'' like super stock mopar performance leafs do . but in my observations , i noted that the trans tunnel is smaller as well on the 63 . might have to do some floor rework as well . have been toying with the idea for using a 69 rrun'r front suspension and k member under my 63 fury , and use the tunnel from a 69 4spd rrun'r and hump with the paddles as well for a stocks racer . anyone do it ? any thing i should know going in . before hacking up my 63 and 69 b bodies .
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Thought that I came across an article where you could get about a 1" set back with a BB but it only works with SB K member. Any help?
Pomona, I put a 67 GTX K in my 64 belvedere in 1976, the motor will end up back about 1.5 to2 inches, the motor will be up an undetermined amount, about 3/4 of an inch or so. do not cut your floor yet, I had to take a body hammer and fold back the floor board seam flat against the floor, (fold it down) it will be close but it will go, the trans mount holes will not line up, the 62,63,64, has a very small tunnel at that point and the trans will not go any where(I know, since 1976) I run a healthy toruge strap on the front to help control twist, I also run a steel mount on the drivers side. no problems. Dave.
 
I'm curious if anyone has ever done a before and after test of this to see what if any gain there is at the dragstrip. I suppose it just makes the car with questionable traction hook better?
 
I thought about doing it, but I felt it was not worth the effort on a mostly street driven car. Plus, I can unbolt my header, pull it away from the engine, and pull my starter out from the top between the firewall, and the last header tube.
 
From what I've experienced, the 66 and newer K frames all locate the engine in the same place. There are differences in the 66-67 K in how the idler arm mounts (IIRC, that changed in 68? with the 68 and newer having a better arm mount) and in 70, the sway bar was redesigned and the K had a different mounting system for that.
 
thank for the insight , changing it from auto to stick make any more issues , which floor hump . the location being farther back will change wer the shifter and linkage n rods clearance needs to be . in think back and higher will launch better even on the street , its the small things that add up , right . set up can win or lose any contest .
 
thank for the insight , changing it from auto to stick make any more issues , which floor hump . the location being farther back will change wer the shifter and linkage n rods clearance needs to be . in think back and higher will launch better even on the street , its the small things that add up , right . set up can win or lose any contest .
Now if you have the room, move your rear axle forward 1"! And yup, moving the engine back will place your shifter back the same amount. If that's a problem, you might can make a new shifter mount that places it further forward but new linkage rods will have to be acquired or made.
 
Now if you have the room, move your rear axle forward 1"! And yup, moving the engine back will place your shifter back the same amount. If that's a problem, you might can make a new shifter mount that places it further forward but new linkage rods will have to be acquired or made.
At the time that I changed mine I had a 65 dodge cornet sitting in the yard that was a four speed car, I cut the back off of my 64 plymouth and added on about the last half of the floor hump, made the four speed hump about 3 inches longer, if you don't know its been done you never notice it!! when I went to an auto I simply put a plate over the hole, wala Dave.
 
what paddles would i use , the 69 b bdody ones , or mod up some from the two pairs of peddles . i've got an extra set of b/c body disc brakes and spindles should be enough for this machine . change to 11'' drums in the rear . this is looking like it might happen .
 
The newer k's do move the engine/trans back. Its a little tight above the case where the piston bosses are but doable. I bumped mine around to gain a little more clearance, especially since I'm running a Gear Vendors on the end. You do have to address the trans x-member. No clearance issues, for me, on header to t-bars/frame/floor/ps box. I know of a guy here in town that has done that swap on 3 of his cars with no issues but since I'm using an Indy aluminum block with hemi mount bosses and Schumacher mounts, I needed to verify and not assume.

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64 Plymouth Belvedere with a 69 RR K frame. Minor mods required to the trans mount. I went with the single stud mount. No other mods required. The engine does sit up about 3/4" more, but a 727 fits in the trans tunnel ok (trans blanket gets very snug though). Right side valve cover is close to the firewall too but there's still room to get it off. The trans filler tube gets close but still accessible.

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thats great , mine getting my parts together for the swap out , has anyone done it with an a833 4spd and 143 flywheel assembly . woundering about the paddles and clutch linkage . not crazy about juice clutch set ups . i'd rather have linked .
 
Wish I would have seen that picture earlier, I've been worried about the header clearance at the crossmember, just got back from the muffler shop about 20 min. ago, was glad that it worked out, old car is now nice and quiet, can you say "stealth" the ttis are tight!! Dave.
 
My swap I traced the mounts on a 66 Hemi k member. Took 1/8" flat stock cut them out and mocked up motor with intake. The intake is 5/8" from firewall. Read I this site racers used later K frames to set back engine but had to modify pass side F/W. I had to redrill holes for outer clutch pivot. If you make a new bracket on bellhousing you could avoid it. Judging from Malex's pic mine is forward !/2" to 3/4" from his. I have a blowshield tunnel modified BFH and flatten seam. Shifter hole made myself.
dode pss side eng.jpg
dodge dr side eng.jpg
 
My swap I traced the mounts on a 66 Hemi k member. Took 1/8" flat stock cut them out and mocked up motor with intake. The intake is 5/8" from firewall. Read I this site racers used later K frames to set back engine but had to modify pass side F/W. I had to redrill holes for outer clutch pivot. If you make a new bracket on bellhousing you could avoid it. Judging from Malex's pic mine is forward !/2" to 3/4" from his. I have a blowshield tunnel modified BFH and flatten seam. Shifter hole made myself.View attachment 440334 View attachment 440335
There's nothing that looks better than a Hemi under the hood.
 
For those that run the TTI headers, torqueflite and a cable shift stick, you know how hard it is to keep the cable off the headers. Pretty much a matter of when, not if, the cable burns.. It happened to me on the weekend at the track. I tried a new cable route today though and I believe this will work. Have a look.

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The cable now loops around the transmission, nowhere near a header tube to burn.
 
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