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Rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) BUT be SURE you’re using 70% rubbing alcohol, NOT 92% or it may attack your interior. 70% rubbing alcohol dissolves 2/3 of all adhesives but doesn’t harm any plastic…although it might partially dissolve 1-component interior paint. Factory color will be fine
If it were me, I’d try to replace just that valve/piston (& check the rod). You can pull 1 head and get at what you need without even pulling the engine
Maybe my car was changed? It did have what I think was an E-body rear end (? - leaf springs forced onto not saddles about 1” to far out each side) when I bought it
You could ask MoparMark (?) on this website and I’m sure a few others to get a non-rusted out factory piece from a salvage car (I recommend OEM pieces) I 100% agree you should add at least some “basic” frame connectors. You can post a wanted add on this site or moparts.com and find a console...
WOW! There is some super useful information above. Another way to look at it is you can measure what you need (assuming your yoke bolts to your pumpkin). As mentioned, you might not have a “typical” u-joint size, but you’ll find what you need if you know the dimensions you need (length & cap...
I think what you’re talking about is a yoke “sleeve”. That is a repair part. You should definitely get another sleeve pressed on by a quality machine shop or repair shop. Your yoke is worn right where the seal hits. A new sleeve will “build up and smooth out” the sealing area….so no more leaks...
For a stock conversion, I believe you will need (based on my ‘70)
A. P/S box
B. Pitman arm
C. P/S pump, hoses & bracket
D. Change center column shaft length as noted above (shorten it).