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I should still have the measurements on some email around.
I may even still have the pics of the NOS set being mesured, wires side to side to the measuring tape
If I even could notice the 3.23 open to 3.55 SG swap (just a bit, but still noticeable) I can guess the huge WOAH you could exclaim with your swap after the first miles LOL
On a side note… the cancelling cam can be replaced on that TSS, HOWEVER the missed horn switch stud makes mandatory the full TSS replacement.
About the new units being available nowdays. There have been mixed experiences. So is about luck. In Venezuela I still haven’t known about these being...
Bad contact or some resistance on fuse clips againts fuse caps. It allows to read voltage with zero load, but as soon it gets load sucked by the bulbs there is no capacity for power response and all the load gets “stuck” on fuse box, either fuse clips, fuse caps, or even on back of fusebox with...
I’m running the old firecore 250 wires 8 mm. Had to enlarge a bit the looms.
I had to give the measurements for custom build to match the original 73 and lates lenghts based on a NOS Mopar setup I had, because tipically ALL manufacturers offer the pre 72 setup. Dunno if they saved those...
My 74 Charger gets the large assembly.
But I allways have thought B and E bodies are exactly the same assembly… even the same front floor pans!
Dunno where it comes from the short assembly. Definitely not from E or B bodies. That short assembly would meet the console center attachment bracket...
Mopar never used a resistor wire but a ceramic piece with a resistor in it. And the cranking feed to the coil comes from ign switch untill 75/76. Then was changed to the starter relay.
Anyway, he is working on a 72, that COULD get optionally electronic ignition. He is talking about pickup coil...
If where just a starting issue could be Bulkhead or ignition switch.
Track and clean the brown wire between ign switch and ballast.
Check if you get power while cranking on brown wire down the column.
Now, if randomly stalling… dist pick up coil, pigtail, or related wiring up to the ECU could...
Limiter should tipically get a paper/cardboard piece to isolate from an accidental chassis contact and get a short. But if the condenser terminal and wire is good and correctly installed, could be no necessary
My bad… A01, not A02
Dunno if EXCLUSIVE included on package or also could ordered individually
(I know it says “available only in group” but code also includes the glove box light and I can’t recall a car without the glovebox light… or every car with glove box light also getting the ign key...
The single yellow wire is the key in courtesy light. It plugs to the time delay flasher system.
The three way plug as mentioned… cornering lights. On later years Mopar offered just this turning switch as a replacement for all bodies instead keep the production for each application
this is from the 70/71 catalog
Despite the red boxes since they come from an E body board
I know that I took pics from my 74 parts catalog, but just can’t find them, and my catalog is 6K miles away from me.
The data for 71 works for all 71/74 thought.
The 8” 1/4 was as mentioned installed also on 400 2 bbls since the power is too similar to the “mighty 318” LOL.
I recall even have seen some 400HP car being uploaded/published around getting a 8” 1/4!!!
About the driveshaft lenght… the Parts Manual Catalog gets a table about the right lenght...
If the 60 amps is able to feed all your actual car load demand at any speed, you won’t see practically any diff between use the 95 and the 60 amps units. The ammeter will read basically the same. Just after crank the engine or a similar batt discharge stage will notice a faster charge process...
DEPENDING of the field is making reference which I guess as everyone of us, meant about the one coming from the RUN circuit (blue wire)
FACTORY FEED THE ELECTRIC CHOKE FROM THE WIRE RUNNING STRAIGHT TO THE ALT FIELD. Making a splice into the run with the plug for the electric asistant control...