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I'm playing less than $400 for the in-tank setup. No need for another tank. I know the fuel pump and Chinese FPR that came with the kit saves money.... But it can't be THAT much. Not enough to justify the complicated install. I have talked to people that have avoided EFI because of the fuel...

I won't miss the whine of the electric fuel pump I was using for my carburetor lol Having all that noise going on the inside the tank was another reason for me making this decision. Honestly, I don't understand why this doesn't come with the EFI kit instead of the needless, complicated...

I ordered the part quoted above. I think that's the ticket.

I'll look into this. Right now I plan to buy the FPR that allows me to go post fuel pump right to the return, without going to to the engine compartment. I like NO return better. I'm unable to get your link to work, but I should be able to figure it out. Thank you!

I'm playing with different options on a few different sending units. I am unable to find a way to mount the bulkhead for the fuel return. Here's an example of what I'm dealing with. When using an aftermarket sending unit, this one came with the return line installed. I was told it was 3/8. It is...

You were talking about the Hyperspark distributor and ignition box, so that's what I was referring to.

Nice! I'll take a look and see if I can figure out which I need for my throttle and trans cables.

With all those parts, I can then delete the ballast resistor, so that I can then use the brown/blu wires, yes? I just got a sweet diode harness (mentioned above) to try to get things working the way they are. I'm gonna try that before dropping $1k on a new ignition setup.

Deal! Thanks, sir.

Let's start over. If I buy the distributor that goes with this ignition system, then I can delete the resistor. Does that make any of this easier?

I have sales conversations. So basically, I just want to run a wire from the positive terminal the battery to one side of the ammeter. Then I run another wire from the other side of the ammeter to the alternator. Is that about right? That way those wires take most of the load and the bulkhead...

Interesting. When I turn the key to "on", my voltmeter shows 11v on the single wire side and around 6v on the side with the blue and brown wires. That led me to believe power was coming from the single wire then going to the blue and brown. Of course, that's with the key on, not while starting...

...and tap into the one that is switched, not the constant power. Correct? Does anybody know which wire it is before I break the connector apart? **Edit: according to my voltmeter and the factory service manual, it actually looks like power comes from the single wire, goes through the...

Actually that all is *starting* to make sense, now that I'm understanding the functioning of these parts. Okay.. In the first picture, from unilite, I see where power goes through the resistor to save the coil. Got it. It sounds like 12v power from ignition and the power wire to the distbutor...

...Do I just leave it unplugged? And does all of that mean that I should not have been running the resistor with my distributor? Mallory Unilite. **EDIT** My instructions say that my distributor definitely needs the resistor. So do I just run a wire off of the side of the resistor with the two...

Now I think I'm getting it, thanks. 4. So, with the Sniper kit, the resistor is no longer needed. Does that mean I shouldn't have been using the resistor with the Mallory distributor? I ask because someone once asked me if I needed it and I didn't know how to answer, only that it's on there...

Thanks for the replies, guys! I clicked on the link. I have those instructions, they came with the kit. I understand how the EFI works, along with inputs and outputs. My problem is that I don't know where on the car to find a safe place to tap everything into. My lack of knowledge is with the...

1. I'm new to building cars this old. I've spent my life working on anything from the 90s and later. 2. I'm still learning the vocabulary, so when I hear ammeter, I don't know where or what it is LOL (I assume it's the actual gauge in the cluster). So, I have a Sniper 2 installed on my '69...

Hey! Look at me reviving a recent post for a change. haha. Okay, okay. 1969 Charger. I need to run power to the relay for my fuel pump, the PDM for my EFI, and a switched source also to the PDM. I'm not familiar with Chryslers, specifically. And also not too familiar with anything pre 1995...

For anyone wondering, this is a Holly carburetor for b body Chrysler. For reference, I have a 440 with a 727 transmission.