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Probably best to verify with someone else on the hole measurements. Now that i look, there's only one hole for the "o" and "g" letters on my trunk. Seems there should be two holes for each letter from pics i've seen online.

Took these photos of my 67 r/t trunk measured from the driver side edge of trunk lid. First hole for the "letter D" is about 14.5" from the driver side edge of the lid. I can't be sure this is an original trunk but seems to be. You might want to verify measurements with other r/t owners. D O...

There are a gazillion 50" sub $300 tv's out there for sale.

You could post in the wtb (wanted to buy) section of the forum. Somone might have one they'd sell.

A 67 column won't fit in a 66 dash. The diameter of the tube where it goes through the dash is larger on a 67. You can look at the plastic cover under the steering column to see if your dash is 66 or 67. Blue one is 66 dash. Black is 67 dash. If you have the 66 cover under the dash then...

Have you looked in the car part out forum? There are a few 66/67 b bodies people are parting. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/mopar-parts-cars-parting-out.74/

This is on a 67 Coronet 4dr automatic a/c car. Should be 26".

Is there a difference between 67 b body bench seat belts vs bucket seat belts?

Get an air wick mist difuser and load it up with pb blaster.

You could get it up there but 4" seems like a lot. Crank down the torsion bars and add taller tires on the front. New rear springs with and extra couple inches of arch and taller tires on the rear.

I don't know if this is the same but might help. It's from a 67 Dodge coronet. Inside view of driver door.

Coolest!

Maybe a holdover in the stamping for when there were vacuum actuated trunk latches. A vacuum line with a grommet went through that hole to the latch on the trunk lid. My 69 Satellite has one. Wouldn't work on a 70 though since it looks like the latch mechanism is on the body of the car instead...

What kind of modification has been done? Maybe someone did the ammeter bypass? https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/ammeter-bypass-or-whatever-you-call-it.290538/post-912826468

Bank teller: What are you going to do with your money? Me: How big are your t1ts? Bank teller: That's none of your business! Me: Now you understand

It's not as fast as acid but the good part is you don't need to worry about it eating metal. Throw it in for a week, a month, a year and the metal will still be there. I've had parts that were ready in 2 or 3 days. Probably depends on how heavy the rust is.

Here's a set i did. You have to wash the residue off when you pull them out of the molasses. It's almost like a black greasy substance but a little soapy water and brush will clean them up.

I have a bunch of stuff de-rusted over the winter with molasses. Works great. Just waiting to get some warm paint weather. 2 sets of headliner bows, couple battery trays, couple clutch/brake pedal assemblies, wiper arms, brackets, etc. After washing, I immediately dry with a towel and then hit...

I have a compressor that would start sometimes and hum other times. It would usually trip the breaker after a short time. Turned out to be a dirty start switch?? in the motor. Opened the motor, cleaned the contacts and it's worked ever since.

A couple years ago sta-lube 85w90 gl-4 was about $30 a gallon. Now most places want $80 if you can find it. penngrade 80w90 gl-4 looks to the best deal these days and most readily available. Some people use atf.