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It’s a basic law of existence (physics). You cannot create energy out of nothing (unless you are God). The reason we don’t pump water back up hill to go through a dam a second time is because it would lose energy….you would need electricity to run it and it would always make less electricity...

Make sure the cable isn’t too long (check factory length) or they can bind. Make sure it’s not melting in your exhaust. Make sure your speedometer turns freely (as mentioned)

Factory A/C compressor definitely hits the air cleaner base

Your exhaust is fine for that motor. I’d add headers before larger pipes if that’s what you’re thinking. An aftermarket aluminum dual plane intake would make sense.

There will be a slot/line on the harmonic balancer. Basic "white out" on that line helps a lot

The 69 air cleaners have 2 wing nuts (even the 4 barrel) and the 70-72 baseplates only have one nut/stud

Yep 70 only “clutch neutral safety switch”

Well, the key is doing “something”. If I understand correctly, you turn the key to “on” and jump the starter relay and it fires up and runs. If you turn the key to “start” it doesn’t crank over (?) or it cranks over but doesn’t fire up & run? Either way, it sounds like an ignition switch or the...

Contact moparmark here for frame sections

Yeah, Radio Shack went out of business several years ago. You just need to rob one out of another fuse box

1. Circumference of your tire = 3.14 x diameter (height). You can get tire height (diameter) from tirerack.com 2. Old tire circumstance divided by new tire circumference = relative rpm. Example: 4.10’s and current tire (28” tall x 3.14 = 87.92 inch circumference)spin 3500 rom at 70 mph. New...

Factory service manual available for free online

2. Stall speed - if you floor it from a dead stop, how high will the engine rev before it launches the car. I’d “guess” 2400-2600 rpm is about stock….total guess

These guys are giving good advice. Your current A/C might work (almost). Under the hood, you'll need an evaporator/drier, a 134a conversion kit & 134a freon with sealer and leak detector dye. Charge the A/C system with the freon and see if it works (e.g. does the compressor turn on?). If it...

Cold Start - something with your choke isn’t working correctly. If it won’t re-start, pop off the air cleaner lid and hold the choke open with a screwdriver or something to re-start. Whistle - it does sound like a vacuum leak. Spray around with flammable brake cleaner and the idle will jump up...

Wow

My fist guess is your timing is way off (too advanced)

Dang. I haven't had that happen to me in years. I know it's hardened, but can you maybe slice it up a little with a dremel cutoff wheel(s)? Maybe pieces would come out easier, or just cutting a channel down the center will allow a chisel to collapse the edges inward?

It’s a cool device and likely acrylic. Eventually it was haze/crack. Not bad for diagnosis though

It’s only loud at idle