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If the Sniper and the fuel pump are connected straight to the battery as their generic instructions specify, that would explain the constant false charging indication on an ammeter-based charging system. May as well do the ammeter by-pass then, as the original purpose of the ammeter will be...
Yep, run a wire from one field terminal to the alternator case, connect the single original field wire to the other. The black device in you pic is an original style mechanical regulator.
Yes, you can run a later dual isolated field alternator on a ’69 and earlier application, just ground one field terminal. No technical reason to replace the existing mechanical regulator if it’s working as it should. However upgrading to the later electronic regulator is fairly easy to do.
That would indicate you have some incorrect loading at the battery or on the battery side of the ammeter. As mentioned, a fully charged healthy battery will draw verry little current on its own, ammeter should be centered under normal operating conditions.
That's backwards, the red ammeter lead goes to the battery, the black is the feed from splice1 then to alternator. To OP, are you assuming the black wire is grounded or has it been tested?
Really need to do a proper diagnosis, forget about the test light, break out the digital VOM, configure it for amps. Connect it between the battery post and the disconnected cable. How much current draw while at rest? Careful not to try to start it or activate any big loads with the VOM...
Sounds like an ignition switch Molex connector issue to me. You can properly diagnose/test it and the ignition switch function prior to taking apart the column. Perform a voltage drop test on each side of the red ignition switch feed while under load.
Ign1 is present at the alternator, one of the field wires (blue one) if that had been shorted it could explain the melted wires at the choke control. The rectifying diodes don’t have anything to do with the field side of the alternator however.
Friction or cloth tape will eventually release and turn into a gooey mess over time, especially when exposed to under hood temps. Electrical tape used as wrap is not much better. Never seen anything other than non-adhesive vinyl harness wrap used on any Chrysler product originally.
The original harness wrap was not any form of tape, it is a vinvl wrap, closest match available now is 1”wide non-adhesive vinyl wrap.
As far as grease on unsealed automotive terminal connections, can't agree with it's use. Unless you are in a very high moisture content climate, there is no need...
That looks better. Anything above 12.6v indicates charging to some degree. A dip below that indicates the alternator is not keeping up with the loads for a given engine RPM. Stock spec’d alts may not keep up with the A/C and lights at idle. What does the ammeter show in regards to charging vs...
That’s the Ign1 feed wires to the choke control, melted insulation would indicate a previous short to ground on that wire run, assuming the wires are not currently over-heating. Both wires showing melting means the short would have been somewhere else on the circuit downstream.
To be clear, you would disregard the wiring diagram that came with that relay. Looks like you have grounded one relay lead. Need to use both of the primary factory wires, one to 85 and the other to 86 on the relay. Do not tie 86 and 30 together as pictured in that diagram, if the relay harness...
On a digital VOM? 0.00 shows continuity, you don’t want continuity from either field terminal to the case. Should not be any reaction or reading with a digital VOM. Touch the probes together, what ever reading you see, you don’t want that between the terminals and the case.