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Beautiful car and glad you got it sorted out. It can be stressful to debug stuff when you're sitting on the side of the road. Double check all of your connections and maybe even add some solder to the critical ones next time you have access to them.

Here is a picture from my archives. This is an early stroker motor rotating assembly from back in the days before you could buy stroker kits. This is a 413 crank that has been turned down and offset ground to make a 470 crank in a 400 block. You can see that the tabs have been cut down and...

Yeah a lot of 413 cranks have those tabs or sprues left on. Not sure why, maybe the 413 cranks were made by a different vendor. I don't recall ever seeing the tabs on a 440 crank but I've seen them on a lot of 413 cranks over the years, especially the earlier ones.

Holley sells EFI fuel pump modules but not sure if they have one for your year. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-314

Why not use your existing fuel line? A 5/16 steel line will work just fine since you'll have 60 psi of pressure. Depending on where you put the regulator you might not need a return line. Holley sells a muscle car EFI fuel pump and regulator combo that fits in the gas tank. With that setup you...

Correct, it is a Dakota Digital VHX dash insert. Nice piece that solves a bunch of issues with these cars since they didn't come with a good gauge package. It still isn't the greatest gauge package ever but at least you get all the info in the available space. The Dakota Digital also interfaces...

Comp Cams street roller, 260/266.

A cover made by Dana/Spicer wouldn't be aftermarket. Dana is the original mfg or the Dana 60. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-707233x

Summit has more than a dozen to choose from.

You can buy a HD steel cover from Dana. I bought one for my S60 and it was perfect. They are super thick, more than 1/8 thick steel so much stiffer than the originals. No problems with leaks. I had this S60 under my Duster but have now swapped over to a Ford 9 inch so this one is a spare.

You dodged a bullet there. You have to turn off your sleep setting when doing an upgrade or else you can lock up the Sniper. The best way to upgrade a Sniper is to put the new file on the SD card and then upload it from the hand held device. That way you don't run the risk of locking things up...

This is a street car. Full interior, undercoating, full exhaust, etc. plus the cage. So it will be 3900+ with driver. It has a glass hood, aluminum heads, mini starter, aluminum water pump housing, etc. but that doesn't offset the added weight. It also has a dana, 11 inch rear drum brakes. The...

I own a set of scales so we know what the car weighs. It is over 3300 lbs right now. By the time we add the glass, interior, bumpers, grille, etc. it will be 3500+. Then add 200 for a driver and 100 for gas and it will be 3850 or 3900 on the starting line.

Sounds nasty with open headers.

Got the car all wired and plumbed.

Looking good. Yep, I've run into the poorly made fitting problem before. I typically buy parts from several different vendors these days just to increase the odds that I'll have some parts that work when they show up.

Here is a B body with a Sniper that I just worked on.

700 hp, 4000 lbs, should go low 11's or maybe high 10's if everything works just right.

Rear wheels are 15 x 10. Not sure on backspacing, maybe 5.5 inches. Tires are 315/60-15. Car has been tubbed.