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Have run over 3000 miles this year. Love having the overdrive. Now on to the A/C.

Rebuilt torque converter, 2200 stall.

As far as mpg, if you care, is 18 mpg on long cruise at 75 mph.

The chart is one that I made up. Pretty good at excel so built the formulas and started playing with possibilities. Rpm changes with change of gear, tire sizes. Helped me find my happy points. On my last post, it says “positive” rear gears. Should be “posi” or limited slip. Using the lock...

Gents, I feel bad that I did not close out this story. Finished the install in 2019. Added 3.91 position gears last year. Awesome cruiser now and good mileage. Ran 1800 miles on a drag and drive adventure with great success. 2500 rpm at 75 is nice and acceleration is such a change from 2.91...

Best thing that happened at a local car event. Drove my 67 LeMans to work that day. Pulling out, noticed that I needed gas. Headed for the station but got flagged down by couple of guys. As I pulled to about 50 feet they were yelling and pointing right. Glanced to the right, two more...

72 Satellite

I have polyurethane (front and rear) in both of my cars. One is a cruiser and the other is a dedicated road course car. I installed all of them myself and lubricated properly during installation. Neither have any issue with squeak. As far as torsion bars, the cruiser has stock and the road...

I have a 72 so the same bumper. My advice from experience: Get a friend to help you in the final install of the main bumper. Get some pool noodles to protect your paint. Loosely install the main and the outer brackets (pinched but not tight) to front of the car, (you can reach the bumper nuts...

Agree that your current PV may be good. Next, go to the primary jets. Your A/F meter is a great tool to get the final tune in. Based on your video, I would drop 2 sizes from your current. I am assuming that you have a Holley carb. Somewhere around 750 cfm. Likely not a double pumper.

That would work.

Clarification from post #13. 1 Wild R/T What you experienced is an air pocket in your heads, hottest point in a running motor. When the thermostat opened, the steam in the air pocket took the path of least resistance and blew out the radiator fill. To avoid, pull off the top heater hose at...

Grounding the terminal will allow the starter relay to work. This, however, takes the safety out of the equation. The starter relay will engage when the car is in gear and the clutch is not depressed. A definite tech problem at the strip (if you are so inclined). Research the 70 up starter...

What is your 60 mph cruise vacuum? Use this as a baseline to make your power valve choice. 1/2 of the vacuum reading at cruise speed. As you drop the pedal from cruise, the power circuit opens and adds more fuel to help the transition. 1st change for drive-ability.

If you are running a PCV, eliminate it. Run with a breather to atmosphere on one side and hose to the air cleaner on the other. With that much duration and low vacuum, it is just a massive vacuum leak.

Let's do a little diagnostic. With the ignition in the "on" position, can you jump the relay to energize the starter solenoid? Will it start when you do this? If so, the fender well starter relay needs to be replaced. Your battery voltage should be sufficient to start.

Something like this would be my recommendation.

Sweet tool. Did not know it existed. Would have helped recently on a 904. Pulled the tail housing from under the car, took it to transmission shop. Cost me $20 too have it changed out. Separating the tail housing was the rough part.

Well, I hope you find the answer to your lean problem. Don't feel the need to argue your best fix.

Anyone can correct me if wrong, but, the PV of 8.5 is way overkill. With an 8.5, your transition would be at 17 inches of mercury. At 7-11 inches of mercury, you should be using a 3.5 to 5.0 power valve for your transition point. Put in a 4.0 and that should get you where you want to be...