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If you mean me...of course NOT! At the iron heads. And, besides the majority of the engine, crossram in place, 727 was also mounted on the engine. I didn't have the means to come from underneath...so, over the top. I've done that many times. Just saying, can be done.

What silversedan said. On my 440 (based), with the crossram in place. Though, it's best to get one of the chain type, with good steel mounting plates, that bolt to the two ends of the heads. I left my carbs off, for clearance for the chain to crossover. The mounting plates keep it all high...

It's a PITA! Too bad it's coming out like that. (Could be something very simple.) Unfortunately, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Might help, understanding what your looking at. On the head, the #4 rocker stand, that the rocker shaft bolts to. Yeah, beside the bolt hole, is the oiling port. That...

Maybe just my typical luck...bought an Echo last year. Used it twice, in a short period of time, then put it on the shelf, for the winter. Didn't take long, with a big oily mess! Some valve on the bar lube tank, gives way, and leaked every drop of oil out. Found out a common problem on 'em.

Sounds like you've found your problem. A good thing, since running it like that would have gotten bad. Okay, find out why? When the cam bearings are installed, there's two holes in #4 bearing. IF the bearing is right, the bearing holes will be lined up with the two block ports. Yeah, run a...

68 was a long time ago. How many miles on it??? Gettin' wore out??

Yes, you just want to be sure the shaft itself, is in correctly. It won't hurt a thing, to be sure your getting oil through the 'block' port, that feeds it. In case your new to the game...do this... Understand the parts and pieces off the rocker shafts, are under ALOT of pressure. So, it must...

In a nutshell, to 'remove' those bearings, you have to destroy them, cutting them off. Only time it needs to be done, is when you replace them. Just like the guys are saying, wash 'em up, as they sit, completely, and re-pack with a good bearing grease.

If you look in the manual, under rocker arms/shaft, note that the oil feed hole to the rocker shaft, is slightly offset to one side. Those shafts work on either side, but the oiling holes in the shaft MUST be located right, by the manual. If the shaft is installed 'backwards', the offset feed...

One brake hose goes to both rears, and the 'Y' block will separate. Two things came to mine, first, bought a new rear hose. Simple, right? Not if that new hose already had trash in it. Be SURE it's clean inside. Yeah, I had completely cleaned my 'Y' block, when I re-did the brakes. My conversion...

Might not be much help, though I went through alot of crap on my 64 Ply brakes. (It wound up so simple, I could not believe it.) I admit, on mine, I already knew I wanted to convert my brakes to manual disc/drum. Just had to get the correct parts and pieces, to make the system right. I screwed...

Not much help here, except I'll say, like many other things, batteries can be easily be junk, too. Good case is my non-mechanical son. Bought a new battery from Walmart. Hell no, no problems tossing names out! Had the battery mounted up...called me a week later...asking if it was 'normal' for a...

Stock BB Mopar ball to ball pushrods are solid. As mentioned, the rocker arms, and upper ball of the pushrods, get oiled via the rocker arm shafts. Tappets, and lower ball on the pushrods, get oil from the oil ports, from front to rear of the block. If you pull a tappet out, you can see the oil...

Hey, Mark, the guys are right. The bell type sender is usually on the driver's side. Just swap out the plug, from the opposite side. It's close, but should slip right in. I've always used a short open end wrench, to tighten them down. Gauge on my 64 is working great. Many thanks! :thumbsup:

If you try to 'pound' those valves out, it's possible you will break the upper part of the valve guide. 906 heads on my 440, every valve was stuck, except a few. I wound up scrapping the heads, and replaced 'em. Up to you, how far you want to go with things. Yes, the complete guides can be...

There is simply a 'tang', at the bottom of the distributor shaft, that fits into a slot in the intermediate shaft. Intermediate shaft drives both the distributor, and the oil pump. If you bring #1 piston up top, and looking at the timing marks at the dampner, then pull the distributor. The...

Agree. First thing I'd look at, on the block, is what the bore size is. That would tell you if it's worth looking any farther. Were the engine parts your's, or the builder's?? Just looking at the hole location for the pickup tube, easy to see it was off at that end. Should have been more...

I don't know how much difference there is between 63 and 64. Guess you have the 'flat' harness, like my 64, 5-6 wires, that goes under the carpet. In the wiring diagrams for mine, yes, it showed going to the driver's side. But, on my actual stock dash harness, only hook-up was on the pass. side.

I don't recall if anything has been said about the distributor. So, what distributor, and is the mechanical advance working right?

It's TOO easy to do an ohms test on wiring. From end to end. On the meter, set ohms to 0 -100, and test the wire. On mine, I gave a limit of 0.5...maximum...if more than that, I replaced the wire.