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Parts here as well............. https://www.shifterdoc.com/productcart/pc/Hurst-Service-Parts-Mechanism-Parts-c53.htm?pageStyle=h&ProdSort=2&page=12&idCategory=53&viewAll=yes

Maybe this drawing can help you............. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/cutting-a833-input-shaft-question.531577/#post-1974141541

Have you checked Summit prices as well. GTX JOHN has 10% discount codes............. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/good-news-new-summit-discount-coupons.286589/

Lol, why they sure can! Still have mine from the late '70s. They can live a loooooong time on the old shelf.......:lol:

I edited my previous post. Use MINERAL SPIRITS, not fuel! You don't want gas spraying all over in a mishap!

https://mymopar.com/parts-manuals/

DO NOT PRESSURIZE FUEL! USE MINERAL SPIRITS! If you have the ways and means to apply pressure, try it........... 5-7 psi max.

If it's impossible it just takes longer. Keep the fuel out of the crankcase! Take the carb off the engine and work it on a stand. Use mineral spirits with some dye instead of gas for visual leak testing. Out of the box...... Have you checked the metering block and body face for flatness...

I did PUIs on my '69 Barracuda several years ago now. Lol, I was just happy to get them on fairly straight. The covers were made in 2014 per the sign-off..........

............. https://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-parts.php?c=2354

It wouldn't hurt to clean and tighten all of those bulkhead connections up.

?............

Download the '69 FSM at Mymopar.com............ https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

That would likely flood the bowl, but I thought that was under control. Are you using the bowl filters? Is anyone?

Seems to me it's unnecessary for a 4 pin ECU on a '69, no? I'm thinking L1 being in the key "on/run" position and not getting voltage would be an issue to find out why not. This has voltage with key "on/run" and key "start" position? Other checks you might make..... Continuity for both...

4 pin ECU conversion wiring on my '69..................

Sooooooooo, What voltages are you getting to the two ballast leads in start and run positions?

Na, just the lock screw. FWIW, this is how I see it. If the needle and seat is too high and the lock screw bottoms on it, the seal may not seal for you as, others stated here previously. If it's adjusted really low to meet the sight plug, it may indicate high pump pressure, a failing...

A new nut and screw set can't hurt ya'. Where does the needle and seat end up in the adjusting nut when the float level is set? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?