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As for parts swapability they both are pretty generic. The center 6bbl carb has a smaller venturi and throttle blades than the 4412 does so you can't just swap them. The center 6bbl carb has a unique throttle arm attachment that need too be swapped onto the 4412 not that hard too do. The 4412...
I was 195 in H/S and the Navy, I know that's never going too happen ever again but I would like too get back down too 230ish. Hockey, Foot Ball, Base Ball, Soft Ball and many many years working in a Prison walking concrete cell blocks hasn't helped.
As good as these engines ran back in the day, modern muscle cars are hard too beat today. If that was the direction I wanted too go in, I would look seriously at doing a stroker based on the 400 block. A 451 or 470ci with the stealth heads and lie too everyone with a straight face and say its...
I thought this was a stockish rebuild or a semi-restoration? Only the Stealth heads look stock everything else sticks out like a sore thumb.... Yep, the hammer is old tech as well and the .484 maybe be old but it works way better than it should so that kind puts it back in the hard too beat...
Molasses's and warm water soak parts for a few day's and rinse off, and you can dump it down the drain. No hazardous chemicals or fumes too worry about.
Well, its a good enough piece and it will get you by. But there only 2 main drawbacks are there heavy and they hold in heat, that's bad and why I recommended a Aluminum intake and paint it. I think the best duel plane 383 intake is still the old school Edelbrock DP4B and it looks very, very...
Well that's a pretty broad range. If it were I, it would never hurt you too go the classic old school 383 route. Just a balanced and blue printed short block hold the compression at 10.1 and slide in the .484 Purple Shaft cam with a nice intake and paint it too match with a 750/780 Vac Sec carb...
Like many I don't have cam numbers memorized so xe268h doesn't tell me much? But even the Vac Sec carbs have Hi and Low speed bleeds.... If it were I, I would use a drill bit as a pin gage and I wouldn't get crazy but I might go one step larger on just the low side and not touch the Hi side...
If its in need of a rebuild there are wear and replace items that are going too be needed, rings, bearings, cam, lifters, pistons, gaskets..... The big parts like the block, heads and there related parts, crank and rods can be machined back into useable condition IF there still enough material...
If its the numbers matching engine I would set it aside and think what I would do next. If its not then I would gut it out and find a 400 block and build it..... But that's just me..
I once skeletonized and swiss cheezed the head light cups/buckets on my RR after all was said and done the four weighed the same as one untouched one did... It was a lot of work that went unseen that was the good part. After all that my dreams of weight loss were shattered I soon gave up and...