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It should be as noted above ^, on top OR above radiator. If not, either never stamped at factory. Or, possibly changed prior, as the radiator support is serviced in sections ( upper tie bar, side baffles, etc). If replaced, observe closely for non-factory spot welds.
NO ! You're wrong ! You must use a Hewlett-Packard 5710-A dual-column gas chromatograph with flame analyzation detectors. Get a floor-model that's turbocharged. ( Just do what you posted... that's all. )
A great recommendation ! similar to what we used to do to 318's ( mine included ) back in the day. You'd be surprised how well a 340 with just a few less cubic inches can run. I toasted a small-block Vette who thought I had at least a 383... I popped the hood after the run since he didn't...
A method I learned from an old timer over 50 + years ago. Electrical ? Ignore all those wires, check ONE system at a time, ONE circuit at a time, using a trace-back method. Find out WHAT that circuit is supposed to do, WHEN it's supposed to do what it does, and WHAT makes it do what it does. One...
I didn't read through all the posts here, so I'll just add a tidbit to your initial post. I'd start at the bulkhead connector, be sure the connections are clean and tight ( years ago I recall a Ford Grenada with an electrical issue, I poked under and discovered the bulkhead connector wasn't...