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I installed an aftermarket radiator with no transmission cooler built in. I used auxiliary transmission cooler in the front. Gotta tell you that on a hot summer day it was just warm to touch after a 30 min highway ride..

Hi all, I have to put the Redhead up for sale. Gotta do what I gotta do... Would love to get $25k I will provide all details on the car to the potential buyer. Thank you.

I used to own a Sportster. Now I have a 1800 CC Honda. I like it better. Water cooled, FI, very smooth running engine.

Cannot agree to all things in original post.. Coolant flow speed is important and should be calculated properly. Higher flow pump will create turbulence in the radiator tubes which will increase efficiency. Too much flow can create cavitation in the pump. My personal experience was very positive...

Yep, check the maximum mech. advance and limit to 34-36. Vacuum advance should be plugged into proper port on the carb - not direct manifold vacuum, but metered vacuum that provides vacuum only when the throttle opens (this is where it makes the difference to have the throttle closed enough so...

That sound decent for an engine with non-stock cam.

You have to stop advancing ignition when there is no much vacuum improvement anymore. The throttle might be open too much. If you bring idle rpm down to 750 or even 700 by closing the throttle - does the mixture screw do anything now?

Lots of good advice here! I will tell you what I did when I had similar situation with hot temperatures. Maybe that could help some. I had a mild Lunati cam in my 440, 9.6:1 compression, Mallory 6A ignition module, Edelbrock 750 carb. On a hot day the coolant temperature would climb to 220...

Don, I am glad I could help. Sharing my experience is the least I could do. :thumbsup:

I took apart an 03 and 04 (04 is same as 05 all around) and I did not find any major difference. However, I know that computers are different and 03 is using oxygen sensors on one side only. The tube mentioned earlier is EGR tube and you will have to get rid of it anyway. I think you will not...

HP Tuners is a system (device that hooks up to OBD port and software on your computer) that allows you to program / interact with ECU. I used stock factory ECU off a 04 Durango (Engine came off a Durango as well).

HP Tuners can do that. I am running 727 and I programmed PCM as manual.

No need to use a different TC. Just a different Flex plate or modify Hemi plate. Here`s my 5.7 with 727, stock ECU, modified Hemi wiring.

IMHO hotter plugs have nothing to do with engine operating temperature. Set your idle timing to at least 15 degrees - you will see the engine will run cooler. Mine liked 22 (most vacuum and easy start).

I live 15 min away. In case if something changes.

What he said! Eccentrics that have more offset will be limited by the slots in the frame...

I did not install the offset bushings yet. That`s with stock bushings.

Borgeson suggests setting caster to 4 degrees. Looks like I will not gain enough caster by using the offset bushings. I was able to set 3.5 degrees on passenger side, but only getting 0.5 to 1 degree on the drivers side. Rear cam is maxed out.. Tubular UCAs are nice but pricey. More than likely...

Does anyone know how much caster can be gained with Moog offset bushings?

I am done with my ToDo list. Time to start driving the Redhead. Went for a first ride after the winter engine swap.