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For a bare block I use the front and back head holes. 7/16 - 16 x 2 3/4" long. Make sure you get at least 1" into the block. Grade 5 is probably sufficient, I use Grade 8 (also for the 2 1/2" washers holding the chains) in case the hoist is being moved a lot causing some bounce - I'd rather...

http://www.harmsauto.com/nos---used.html

Usually a love it or hate it front mug - glad another lover surfaced - great R/T! Is it my eyes or is the bottom green-tinted rhino lining? On the wheels, one partial trick (when it hasn't been repainted) is to look under the decklid at the spare factory mark: "F70" (x14) or "F60" (= 15"...

There is only one FACT with Mopar: nothing was 100% standard, logical, uniform, traceable, documented, etc. etc. With your block I would figure it would be "S440" (instead of "440S") and have a "WT" or "TW" as well, so it would be nice to see a photo of the pad for variations. No "HP"...

http://www.glenwood76.com/Coronet_Production_65_76.htm#Back%20to%20top

(just passing it on) After a couple years of trying, and having them listed on their website but not actually released by OER during that time, I see that the elusive reproduction grille is finally in stock through Classic (advertiser on FBBO). If you can catch a 30% off, that's $700 for the...

If a wheel, I believe the part number would be 3580058, can you see the other markings around the stem to give you the year? Since I only have a 70 parts book, mymopar.com has a handy little part number search function: Says its for 72 B/E body., may not be all inclusive.

It is a 70 so it'll sit a while longer than other mopars. Yellow and $40K narrows the field too. There are a bunch of 70's on the market. A desired-optioned mopar will sell all day. If it's standard fare, you have to hook a buyer on the merits of the car to get 'em interested. To do that...

Yes, here's an example fender tag V5X

If you're trying to go original, and you don't have a broadcast sheet with wheel cover codes to reference, I think 1970 B's came factory with body color 14" steelies/caps when no other extra-cost option (deluxe, wire, rally, road) were specified. Black were on A12s and sometime after 1970, or...

Have to say, $31,900 is a pretty decent ask for a restored Bbody. Its been for sale for a year or two, IIRC asking $42 or $45, which most people won't (and apparently didn't) pay for a non-Bee. It is a 500 but they've done some things to enjoy driving it.

The revision # vs. the casting date on a block can be all over, especially considering the amount of castings happening at the same time. I don't get his theory - where is the thinning occurring? I guess watch out if you've got 2536430-13! He was probably trying to justify more $ for the block...

Here's a good long answer link for that http://www.440source.com/partnumberinfo.htm

I agree, nothing to worry about. If it's not level I would want to see consistency between the two body locations in its unlevelness, if that makes sense? 100430 is very early, probably not much delay from actual build to your SPD and built in the first couple days of production. Sloppiness in...

Edit: looked up your profile, you're asking for a 70 V-code Bee? A 1970 VIN body stamp shows the plant location switched with the year (i.e. "A0100430") from the VIN on the dash (say WM23V0A100430). The radiator stamp could be on the top or side depending on which plant location it came out...

1970 440 block castings = no difference. HP vs. "non-HP" engine = big difference in how it ticks and breathes. I would think if they did a cam swap they would have wanted it to breathe better also. At least your NOM is in the same color range as original.

Speaking stock setup, absolutely HP (not getting into rods/crank difference etc 68 vs 70). Loaded question though as to what's been done to your current setup and how important to you a NOM should meet what it was born with.

Works for 68/69. For 1970 don't know of any repros (#9879/1865).

Here's an unmolested vent line, if you can see it in the dark pic

The master control cable mounts to the right side (passenger) duct door arm of the ramcharger. Enters firewall through grommet just to the lower left of the voltage regulator when looking at it (I think there may be a dimple there on non-N96 cars). Mounts under dash just to the left of the...