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I'm in the UK. When I get a chance I'll take some measurements and draw it up. It should be a simple job for someone over there to replicate.

The bottom pic is my Road Runner. I did this a few years ago using a 2" actuator and home made bracket. I'd prefer the stock setup but the aftermarket vacuum actuators you can buy are junk, the one I bought lasted a month.

I fitted a Gear Vendors overdrive and needed a switch so I made a trigger for the pistol grip. The cable runs down the back of the gear stick.

Yes if I remember correctly its got a 2" stroke.

I had a bunch of Comp hydraulic lifters fail. I took the failed lifters apart to see what was going on. There's a shim in the bottom of the lifter that acts as a one way valve to stop the lifter collapsing and it had shattered into small pieces in each of the lifters. Junk. Just to be clear...

My car only has the lap belts fitted but I can feel where the bolts go for the shoulder belt through the head lining. You need someone to post a picture for you if you can't find them.

I think the head lining covers the threaded holes where they mount. So if it's been replaced you will have to feel for them.

I fixed mine. I bought a reproduction horn but it just didn't work as good as the original. I drilled out the rivets on the original and opened it up. The gaskets were rotten so I made new ones from a sheet of gasket material and bolted it back together. The adjusting screw on the original horn...

It's called a linear actuator and there's loads of them listed on ebay.

I had the same problem when the fuel filter was blocked. When the engine cut out all the crud in the filter sank to the bottom after 10 minutes or so and the engine would start again. After running it for a while the crud would work it's way back into the filter and shut off the fuel.

I used blue loctite on that screw 10 years ago and it hasn't come loose again yet.

A lug nut is the same thread as your steering wheel nut, 1/2" 20. You just need to cut it down to remove the taper.

I have a 4 speed big block with 2" Doug's headers and have plenty of clearance. The clutch fork looks a bit too long in one of your pictures. Are you sure it's engaged in the bell housing fully because if it is it may be the wrong fork for your 4 speed.

I got fed up of buying vacuum actuators from China that last a few months. These actuators are dirt cheap off ebay, just had to make a new bracket. I had to space it over to clear the 26" radiator because they are a bit longer than the vacuum unit.

Sounds to me like the splines in the side gear are not aligned with the splines in the sure grip. Push the half shaft in as far as you can and then rotate it, keeping the other half shaft stationary, and it should drop in.

The only thing I remember about those bolts is that the threaded end is tapered. This was done to allow the bolts to be started more easily. I think they are 7/16" UNC but not sure and there is no washer fitted under the hex on my car.

There's a check valve under the piston that allows oil in but stops it leaking back out. There's a video on the Comp website showing you how they are made. The video shows a check ball, when in actual fact the valve is nothing more than a thin steel shim. The shim is not up to the job and...

Same thing happened to my set of Comp Hydraulic roller lifters. Comp never did answer my emails so I went back to a solid flat tappet cam. I put it down to a lesson learned, an expensive one at that.

You can get them on ebay for a few dollars. Just search for 1970 GTX owners manual.