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I think the cam lube is a secondary measure to prevent damage. If the engine is fully primed and pre-oiled it should not wipe the cam due to lack of lubrication. It is a simple and cheap solution for a peace of mind when you fire it up the first time though.

He ment he has wiped all the cam lube off the lobes with all that rotating. If still possible, it would be good to slap some new lube on the cam before final start to make sure it has lubrication.

Just the fact that all the toxic gasses from the crankcase are re-routed to be burned in the engine instead of you inhaling them is enough reason to use a PCV i think. The complain about all the greasy/oily substance contaminating the intake could be an indication there is excessive blow-by...

Never knew it was numbered like that in the US. I checked once more but it says E10 is 95 octane and E5 is 98 octane, looks like in Europe we do not use the RON identification anymore. (years ago it was though) In Germany you could even get 100 and 103 fuel, not sure they still have it though.

I agree on that. But when starting on dialing in an engine from fresh (carb/ignition) you would (at least I would) start with a new set of plugs. After some dialing in and test driving you will get some feedback of them about the combustion process, being rich or lean is easy to spot. And if...

So, for what do you check the spark plugs for then? Tire pressure? :fool: Don't you agree the plugs will tell a story about the fueling?

Did i say to select a pre-determined AFR? We know an ideal WOT AFR is about 12.8 - 13.0, Photon440 also mentions the very lean (+14.7) mixtures engines can be cruising on. This is very variable and engine by engine as we all know and the right numbers need to be found by trial and error. Your...

What i am kind of missing here is that there is no mentioning at all about the AFR. You can advance/retard timing, but the AFR must follow to suit. You cannot expect an engine to run efficient with a rich mixture to run wit 50* of advance, it needs to be leaned out. Same counts for the opposite...

This is the first thing to check, to make sure the steering box is in centered position. Work from there to make sure the pitman arm is in the correct position and also the steering column/steering wheel. Normally the steeringboxes have a little "slop" in the "straight forward position, if this...

Not surprising with 2 Snipers on there, i believe you are using the "normal" Snipers and not the Stealth version, correct? In that case you could try the progressive linkage, this slows down the opening of the secondary's and gives better control of the "kick" when the secondary's open up. There...

Try and reduce the cruise timing to 38-40 and see if that reduces the pinging. The ecu will automatically apply a map between the settings you choose, by reducing the cruise timing the timing map will have less "ramp" and reduce the overall timing as well. What about the AFR? Don't go to lean...

What settings do you have for the AFR? (Idle, Cruise and WOT) Initial timing you set for 15 deg, what about the WOT timing? I assume you followed the correct procedure for clocking the distributor with the plastic cap right? Not sure if you already used the laptop to configure a timing table...

If you going to have your engine build at Nick's just tell him what you want and he will get it for you. Have not seen a single video where he did not achieve the target on hp/tq, vacuum and all other parameters he aimed for.

Like Sam mentioned, get some 906 heads and get them ports cleaned up for a bit more cfm/flow, a valve job and get the right springs to go with the cam of your choice. Saves a lot of $ compared to going with alu heads, not sure why the guy is asking $3K for a set of heads? Sounds like too much imo.

I am using the sniper also with the hyperspark setup and mine also does not like cold idle. I had locked the idle timing to 20 degree, there is an option in the menu to do so and disables "idle spark" Set the idle AFR target to 12.5 -13.0 first too help it idle, later on you can try different...

Like i mentioned previously, just check your valve body halves and separator plate are from the correct year. It could be the push button version has only 1 model and you cannot mix it you should be ok, but just in case. They have part numbers on them you could double check, i've seen a list...

I know that it's a pain, but i do not see how to get to that plug without pulling it. Splitting transmission and engine and leaving it up there makes me fear to damage the converter lugs or shaft seal with even more drama's coming at you. Keep that trouble and leak free transmission in mind as...

That plug is keeping the lever pin for the front band lever in place and must be removed when removing the lever. That is an NPT thread plug and normally only requires some thread sealant when installed back. Like Fran already said, looks like there has been some issue with it before as it looks...

I can't speak for your situation as i don't know, if you know the full history of the car (maybe from in the family or so) you could know something more. But for the most of us have no confirmation on what has been done by previous owners, since so many were raced or pumped up as a hot streeter...

Have the kit in my '69 727, firm shifts although on mine the 2-3 shift can be kinda harsh. If you give it decent throttle to speed up it is fine, but if you slowly speeding up (like in traffic) it tends to go harsh on the 2-3 shift. But first things first, remove the valve body and split it...