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With all those parts, I can then delete the ballast resistor, so that I can then use the brown/blu wires, yes?
I just got a sweet diode harness (mentioned above) to try to get things working the way they are. I'm gonna try that before dropping $1k on a new ignition setup.
I have sales conversations. So basically, I just want to run a wire from the positive terminal the battery to one side of the ammeter. Then I run another wire from the other side of the ammeter to the alternator. Is that about right? That way those wires take most of the load and the bulkhead...
Interesting. When I turn the key to "on", my voltmeter shows 11v on the single wire side and around 6v on the side with the blue and brown wires. That led me to believe power was coming from the single wire then going to the blue and brown.
Of course, that's with the key on, not while starting...
It's go time. I'm pretty good on everything but I'm still stuck on this source for 12 volts, switched.
I've got one post that tells me to take the blue and brown wires from the resistor and use one of them as the switched source, then delete the resistor. But then a couple posts later I'm being...
Actually that all is *starting* to make sense, now that I'm understanding the functioning of these parts. Okay.. In the first picture, from unilite, I see where power goes through the resistor to save the coil. Got it.
It sounds like 12v power from ignition and the power wire to the distbutor...
Update: so, this isn't looking too bad. Since I don't have to worry about the power and ground, I am mounting the PDM over on the firewall where the resistor was.
And then brought the wiring harness from the EFI to that side which is good because that's where my coil is to run the yellow wire...
Now I think I'm getting it, thanks.
4. So, with the Sniper kit, the resistor is no longer needed. Does that mean I shouldn't have been using the resistor with the Mallory distributor? I ask because someone once asked me if I needed it and I didn't know how to answer, only that it's on there...
Thanks for the replies, guys!
I clicked on the link. I have those instructions, they came with the kit. I understand how the EFI works, along with inputs and outputs. My problem is that I don't know where on the car to find a safe place to tap everything into. My lack of knowledge is with the...
1. I'm new to building cars this old. I've spent my life working on anything from the 90s and later.
2. I'm still learning the vocabulary, so when I hear ammeter, I don't know where or what it is LOL (I assume it's the actual gauge in the cluster).
So, I have a Sniper 2 installed on my '69...
Hey! Look at me reviving a recent post for a change. haha.
Okay, okay. 1969 Charger. I need to run power to the relay for my fuel pump, the PDM for my EFI, and a switched source also to the PDM. I'm not familiar with Chryslers, specifically. And also not too familiar with anything pre 1995...
As the title states, I'm installing a sniper 2 onto my 1969 Dodge charger.
The plate and post, I guess you call it, from my carburetor does not seem to work on the sniper setup.
What is everybody using for the throttle cable and kick down on b-body? I did a search and only found results for an...
Only enough, mine is only the rubber piece. I just ordered another that does have the ring built in. That would explain why I wasn't able to find a separate part number. My lord lol.
Thanks guys. Hopefully this helps out the next idiot who has this problem. Lol
I will check, but I'm pretty sure I've got the rubber piece only. Didn't see any options to order the ring with it.
I can use mine, it's just a little frail and a couple spots where it's almost rested all the way through lol