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anybody here old enough to remember when all we had was a simple light (no inductive) and we'd put a safety pin in the #1 plug wire (and keep it there) at the distributor?
if you're trying to measure distributor degrees each .0154" of travel in the slot is one distributor degree. i use number...
You'd be surprised at how many people don't check crankshaft end play properly. Could be converter issue. Perfect reason to build your own stuff and keep notes.
both of my cars actually run/drive worse with full centrifugal distributors than vacuum advance distributors. to think all i'd run back in the day was full centrifugal makes wonder if i used my brain back then. long term the cylinders last longer, plugs burn cleaner, and mpg can be a noticeable...
I used to do the collar thing. It doesn't work on a b engine. The intermediate shaft thrust is down due to the helix cut on the camshaft and intermediate shaft gears. All you have to do is look at the wear pattern on the bushing thrust flange. I've found that sloppy timing is more of a loose...
I use the Mopar distributors because they have a vacuum advance. On my one car (stock stroke 440, moderate mech cam, alum heads, headers, bunch of carb) I modify the basic design. I use a 9 degree plate, a light primary spring and heavier secondary spring with the loop, and a limited vacuum...
I live in the path of totality. The Corona was really cool. Small red flares could be seen at the bottom. Got pretty dark, birds went funny. Nature is always a wonderful sight.
Sometimes I think 727's were designed to leak. I've been chasing leaks on my r/t for awhile. I knock them off bit by bit. Strangest leak has been the kickdown band adjuster. Anyhow, sell the t10 stuff to a good home and you'll have plenty of "leak money". Shift kits are simple but hard shifts...
I have 275/60's with 15x8/4.5" backspace on the rear of 65 coronet. With stock-ish ride height that's as big as I want. 65 coronets don't have much wheel well.