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I wet sand with 2000 wet sandpaper and compound it as you would car paint….except by hand …..no machines.

I need something left on the bone…..

I stripped mine also. Gave em a bath in some product I got at a swap meet. Worked well but don’t remember what the stufd Was called , a white powder. You can surely look it up. Mine also came out nice. You just have to polish them periodically.

The screws go directly into the metal of the dash , mine did anyway. loosening the two bolts on the “u” shaped bracket should allow the column to drop down.

They sure do. mine like them too. there just not going to work on them anytime soon.

It’s cool that you can enjoy the hobby with your son. I have 3 daughters so no dice there. ….

Good advice on the measuring. I did do that ( both sides) with the wheels off and the axle jacked up To the full Weight of the car. By my calculations I should have enough clearance. It’s always good to get the advice or opinions of folks out there that are actually using this size...

Thanks. What are you running on the rear? I don’t want to do any cutting or rolling of the lip.

I’m about to order wheels and tires from summit. For fronts I’m going with wheel vintique magnum 500 15x7 and radial t/a p225/70-15. for the rear I would like to go with the magnum 500 15x8 4 1/2 inch back space with radial t/a 275/60-15. Have any of the first generation charger owners on...

if you could get it for the price range folks here are suggesting, and you don’t care about a correct restoration ( as in finding and spending money on correct parts) , it would make a nice candidate for a modified car. this would of course depend on your imagination, fabrication skills etc.

Good question. I have the same situation. Has anyone used the old panels as templates to make their own? If so , what material did you use and where do you get it?

I read or heard that most of the time it’s a bad capacitor when they fail. I found one of the same rating on the internet….less than ten dollars….soldered it in….and what the hell , damn thing worked

I have a 66 charger which was originally from the Jersey area, surprisingly very little rust. If the interior is all there and restorable….big plus. A lot of one off stuff there. 10k range sounds about right to me. But with the prices now , who knows?

Very commendable of you sir

From the picture it appears to be a factory splice first , and then a repair splice on the beige wire after the factory splice. you can verify where the beige wire went with your shop manual . It may be faded yellow in fact.

I lost my keys on a 66 charger. I ended up drilling out the trunk cylinder. As Ron H said….picking it would be better IF you can do it. I ended up buying and installing a replacement set for ignition,doors,trunk. All operate with the same key.…….this time I got some copies