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That's a class act.

In retrospect, I'm pissed that I didn't follow the #1 Rule of What Did You Touch Last? The car started when I was testing the PCB and then didn't start when I installed the IP. Instead of dicking around bypassing relays and solenoids and performing continuity checks in places I hadn't touched...

Same here. I'm adding the starter relay to my parts stash of known-good parts. Buttoned up the dash, steering column, etc. and took the Coronet on a short cruise around downtown Lincoln. Everything works - for now.

I stopped at the starter relay. It helps to just walk away to get a fresh perspective. Yesterday was spent bypassing relays and solenoids to try to isolate the supposedly defective part. I couldn't wrap my mind around why the SOL terminal was 0V when the yellow wire was 12.9V at crank. I...

The irony is that I checked the connections when I was bypassing the Ford solenoid. Connections were tight, no corrosion at the batt terminals. The battery is a 3 year old Interstate that I bought at Costco. The battery is in a battery box with 1/0 cables. The negative cable is secured to the...

Yep, this is how I set up my car. And you're closest to the answer. This morning I did two things: I added a star washer and a large circumference washer to the underside of the steering column ground wire I mentioned in the prior thread, then tightened up the steering column. Next, I swapped...

Yes, there are two ground straps. One is the factory strap from the intake manifold to the firewall, and there's another 1/0 wire from the engine to the frame.

Grounds do matter. There is a ground wire from the dash frame stud to the steering column jacket. That wire is secure at both ends. For S&Gs I disconnected the wire; the voltage at the starter relay Batt stud dropped to 3.94V. So grounds make a difference. But now I'm stumped as to what...

It's an auto, so using a jumper I grounded the NSS terminal on the starter relay to the engine; no change. The battery is in the trunk along with a Ford-type solenoid to cut the power to the 1/0 cable during non-crank. The batt side of the solenoid has 12.94 V. The 1/0 cable goes from the...

Yep, I did it this time. Usually when I break something on car, after a bit of troubleshooting I figure it out, a lot of times by pure luck. In this case, my 69 Coronet has a no crank issue and after the better part of 4 weekends including six hours today I'm still at square one. First the...

Yep, missed that part.

These are only 5% less when you buy 4; $60 savings.

Good idea using the zip ties; its almost impossible to gather all the strands into the terminal. Having the 1/0 anvil is a must to crimp correctly; don't try to jury-rig the crimp. Another tip I saw was after the crimp but before laying down the shrink tube, drill a 1/8" hole in the top of the...

I'll have to look for photos tonight when I get home, or take new ones.

The advantage is accessibility, especially with headers. With the 45° terminals I can get to the starter cables through the access hole in the inner fender.

Dwayne, I went with 1/0 cables in the Coronet and the Dart. I don't think there is a point of diminishing returns. 1/0 cable might be "over-engineering", but so what. Of course you'll need larger lugs, shrink wrap and a crimper. I used the spring loaded hammer-pounder crimper. I also...

The gauges are all still good. The inaccurate gas gauge is the sending unit not the gauge.

I just got an alert that someone "Thanked" my original post so I need to update. For the first several fill ups the gauge read very accurately but it's degraded over time. The gauge now reads consistently low throughout the range. Better than the other way; I haven't run out of gas yet (just...

Got mine from Mancini Racing. You might need offset solenoid studs to clear the block; Mancini might have them too or you can find them on EBay. The most important consideration if you're running headers, and I'm talking from experience, it to route the batt and solenoid wires carefully.

I have that too.