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I had to replace the antenna on the Coronet. I did it with the fender on. You need enough room to swing the door open all the way. I'm a big guy with big hands and arms and it was tight but I got it done. Naturally the kick panel needs to be removed first.

Think about replacing the analog circuit board voltage limiter with a new digital unit. RT-Engineering sells them for Mopars. Cheap insurance. RTE limiter - rte

When I restored the Coronet's dash I used John Deere Blitz Black out of a rattle can. It's a great looking finish. Then painted the back/inside of the dash silver to give contrast when chasing wiring issues in the future. And yes, there was a lot of masking involved.

I laid Fat Mat Rattletrap in the Coronet and it's good. A couple weeks ago I finished up the Dart interior. Went to Lowes and bought probably the same stuff 69a100 mentioned. That and I got the good carpeting with the heavy backing from Rock Auto. What a huge difference it made deadening the...

It's odd but the Dart has more room for the retractor mechanism than the Coronet. The Coronet has one twist and the Dart lays flat. I like them. Installed the Coronet five years ago and just installed them in the Dart two weeks ago.

I have the XV 3 pt harness in both the Coronet and the Dart. Its not a Charger but the arc on the Coronet is pretty close.

BTW, if you get the B body brackets and your car originally came with buckets then the holes should line up. But even if the car originally had a bench; underneath the car are two reinforcement brackets factory welded to the inner rocker. The inner holes on the brackets have to be drilled out...

I just finished installing those very same seats (with headrests) in the Dart using ProCar's mounting brackets. I had to drill holes and add reinforcing plates for the inside mounts because the Dart was originally a bench seat. During the down time I also changed out the carpeting, added Fat...

That's really nice. Dakota Digital is the way to go. Does your package have an ammeter or voltmeter?

I did just that on the Coronet. It's pretty straight forward with the dash out of the car. You need the factory vents to mark as templates. A Dremel makes quick work.

I used the same Rattle Trap as Greg. Installed it on the floors, C pillars, roof, and inside the doors. It definitely helps muffle some of exhaust noise.

I used SEM upholstery paint to change the Coronet's interior from saddle tan to black. Used their rattle can Landau Black. Its all about the prep work. In addition to the paint you need to clean the material then use vinyl degreaser and lastly an upholstery primer. I used a grey Scotchbrite...

I have the same stuff in the Coronet. I don't ever want to deal with tearing it up.

Like Stanton said, but especially true if the pad has been dyed. Mine's dyed black from the original saddle tan and every time I remove and replace the switch panel I have to touch up the corners.

What is wrong with them? It's a hardtop, but i was able to refurbish the rear window regulators on the Coronet. There are vendors that sell roller kits to replace the plastic rollers.

My Coronet came with the buddy seat. When I had the seats reupholstered I took the buddy seat out with the intention of installing a custom console. Three years later no console, and this thread has convinced me to reinstall the seat. Cool pics everyone.

Almost impossible to replicate the factory staples. On my Coronet I popped in rivets - get the smallest available from Harbor Freight. Once they're in you can't see them and they lie beneath the felt so the windows won't scratch.

I refurbished the quarter window mechanism on the Coronet, replaced the rollers. The 69 quarter window rests in a channel, I don't remember any bolts through the glass, but your 67 could be different. Here's pics of one assembly. I think i used general use grease lightly applied; also WD-40...

Hey MeepMeep, any updates? I'm about ready to send my gauge cluster out.

Pretty cool. I'd like to see how much floor fab is needed. What kind of BMW?