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Well, I managed to get then installed today using a ratchet strap. What a PITA! Thought I could encircle the shock with the strap at first but that didn’t work. Finally used some holes in the cross frame for one end and the shock bottoms on the other. thanks for the ideas and help guys!

Gonna try the ratchet strap tomorrow..

This is a bit embarrassing but I was having one hell of a time installing new KYB rear shocks on my 62 today. 20 years ago it probably would have taken 10 minutes but I just don’t have the strength anymore to compress those damn things. I tried installing top first and bottom first but just cant...

I saw a picture of the Moog bushing on Rock Auto and they appear to have small lip on the inside face. Sure doesn’t look like much to hold it in place but I guess the pressure on the rubber helps alot. I’m going to order a set a see what they look like, they aren’t expensive..

Did some searching earlier for new strut rod bushings for my 62. From what I’ve seen they are simply rubber doughnuts - no metal sleeve, no male/female ends. Is this correct?? what holds them centered in the holes, just the washers?

That may well be the most significant factor. I’m just surprised that the fronts getting much more use, do not offset the differential heat. Now that I’ve got this temp gun to play with I’ll try getting more measurements.

Thanks for replying to this. I understand the difference is negligible in the scheme of things but I’m curious what would cause the rear to run warmer. It may just be a combination of fatter tires, rear differential and new shoes I guess. I just never gave it a thought before.

Just went through the same thing with a hand pump. After hand pumping until my hand cramped up I went in and got the wife to pump the pedal. Much faster!

We’ll, gee, thanks so much for your feedback..

Same issue I just ran into. Wanted to put a set on my Fury but the fronts don’t have the covers and I’d really like to keep the look original…

I didn’t want to add this to my post of rear brakes grabbing so starting a new thread. This is a bit nit-picky but I would like to try understanding what I am seeing. Since trouble shooting the battle of my rear brakes heating up I bought an IR thermometer… while I believe my rear brake drag...

Yea, I am in the same boat . Contacted Beilsteins to see if the upper boot was available and it isn’t…. My Fury is bone stock and I really need a stock appearing shock. Don’t think I can tolerate an open topped shock and May need to go another route…

Well a few weeks later and a complete brake system overhaul but I finally have normal running temps and good brakes. Ultimately it was the drums causing the heat… I don’t know yet what was wrong with the old ones since I don’t have an accurate way to measure the surfaces but a new set of cheap...

Thanks for the information Moparbuff! Do you know how far back and forward those backplate part numbers extended? I’m trying to determine if there was a change that resulted in a different shoe design or if the shoe change was simply to accommodate the new style adjuster set up?

I put a set of these 581s on the rear of my car this spring and have been battling hot drums ever since. I’ve changed out the entire hydraulic system believing it was a pressure release problem. i put in manual adjusters and even backed them all the way off but they still drag and heat up. I...

Anyone know if there was a change in the rear brake backing plates from pre 69 to post 69’ For 10” drums?If so do you have pictures of the later? i notice that the rear brake shoes that Rockauto sells changes from 68 - 69. I know the adjuster set up changes .

No, I never said the brakes released when a bleeder was cracked. I said the shop guy told me they released when he opened a line in the rear (Post 1). Since he determined the hose was plugged I assume it was the hose to the T connection - maybe both ends of the hose? I appreciate your help with...

At this point I don’t think I could notice a difference as it’s more of a slight drag by the time I get the rear jacked up. Hopefully my tool for the rod adjustment will be here tomorrow so I can rule that out. If it’s good and I have to break the hydraulic system I’ll probably just replace the...

I should clarify. The guy that had my car rebuilding the transmission had claimed that he determined the problem was the collapsed rubber hose to the rear T block by opening a connection someplace - probably the hose to the T. That line was replaced and supposedly the hydraulics was working fine...

I guess I start replacing parts…. My tool for setting the rod should be here in a few days so I can verify that’s set right. From there I start replacing stuff…. Wish I knew for sure if it was mechanical or hydraulic so I knew where to start…